Are all GD engines fuel injected?

[Dk123456789]

Hi all. I'm new to posting but been reading up for a while. Couple of questions that would really help me out if anyone could.

Firstly a little info....

I'm attempting to get a 1973 type 2 bus back to working order. It seems to be a Frankenstein version. I have no previous history about bus or the engine. The engine code is GD052054. I believe this is a 2.0ltr engine. Problem is it states i. everything I have read that this should be a fuel injection engine....mine is not. I have to replace the piston rings in cylinder 1 after getting 0 in the compression test. There are no visable marks on cylinders or pistons besides a bit of carbon so I assume only thing left would be piston rings. Valves seem ok and rocker arm assembly is fine.

If this is a fuel injected engine I would then assume the cylinders and heads would have been changed? If so what would be the fastest easiest way to find out the size of piston rings I need? This is without any specialized tools.

I really appreciate any help you can offer. This is the first rebuild I'm doing and have the Bentley and Hayes manuals but when your engine is made up of different parts clarification helps.

Should also state that on removing the cylinder head and cylinders there were no gaskets of any kind. Is this right or have they just been left out by a slightly careless previous owner?

[Tcash]

GD052054
77 2.0 Ltr Engine
Engine numbers

If this is a fuel injected engine I would then assume the cylinders and heads would have been changed?
They could have removed the Injection and put Carbs on.

what would be the fastest easiest way to find out the size of piston rings I need?
Take a tape measure and measure your piston.

removing the cylinder head and cylinders there were no gaskets of any kind.
The factory started out using head gaskets, but sometime later put out a service bulletin to remove them. All is good.

I would suggest you get this book and read it from cover to cover.
Tom Wison

Good Luck

[busdaddy]

Welcome!

[Dk123456789]

Thanks for the help.

The number was off the case. The shroud is aftermarket so no number beside the part.

When I said I don't have specialist tools I meant like high tolerance measuring tools I have a tape measure. Lol the pistons are 94mm so I would assume rings would be the same?

I have done quite a bit of research but was unaware about where to get 40 year old service updates. I spoke with a few VW dealer techs as well but sadly none had much knowledge about specifics and variances. That's the main reason I came to the forum. You guys seem to know everything there is due to previous experience and asking many questions.

There was no carb but there was nothing joining the inlets so assume this was either changed from dual to single carb as no visable signs that it was previously fuel injection.
Was going to get a weber dual port carb from a friend that's going spare and rebuild that to solve te carb issue.

I am a bit reluctant to open the case as everything else seems fine the compression test was 119-120-121 cylinder 2-3-4. I checked the valves/seat/seal and all ok springs were all fine. Cylinders were all looking ok.
Measured the ring end gap and top ring was 1.8mm gap. This lead me to believe this was a ring issue. The only other marking on anything is just carbon deposits. I was amazed at how good it all looked.

Thanks for all your advice. Hopefully with a bit of TLC should be able to get it up and running.

[Tcash]

Pictures would be cool.
How to post photos/How to post a photo in the Forums[/quote]

[Dk123456789]

Don't have to many photos at the mo. Il get a few tomorrow. These are the ones I have...and no help at all with the engine. Lol

[Dk123456789]

Also another question. I believe that there should be a pipe from the oil breather to the old air oil bath filter. Now that this engine won't have the oil bath filter what do I do with the oil breather? Can't just plug the whole? And at present is filled with gunk so will have to clean out but what would I do after to solve the issue?

[Bleyseng]

No, you can't just plug it or the internal case pressure will blow out all the seals for one leaky engine.
What's the piston to cylinder wear numbers as there is a limit on that clearance. Usually the pistons/cylinders are too worn to re-ring so a new set is the answer.
Pull the #1 piston and look inside to see the cam and determine the cam lobe wear as stated that could be a issue.

Usually if you don't know the service/mileage on a engine it's been already had the top end redone and the bottom end (cam/lifters) are shot. About 150,000 miles is the usual limit to their life so don't just slap parts on. Take it apart and measure everything.
_________________
70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles

[Dk123456789]

Not working on the engine till later but a quick look this morning and the cam lobes seem ok nothing looks to worn as far as I can tell. Cylinders are ok measured the ring end gap at top and bottom of cylinder and both in tolerance. Was going to put the piston in the cylinder later and check if in tolerance.

I knew I couldn't just plug the oil breather but did I need to attach to something or can I just leave it as is? The amount of dirt and grime in it just made me think there must be a better option than just leaving it as is?

[busdaddy]

The breather needs to be plumbed into the induction system, until you figure out if you are going FI or carbs we can't say what you should do.
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[Dk123456789]

Managed to get a weber 32/36 dfav carb so going to rebuild and use that. The engine doesn't have a blower fan and the heater boxes are beyond rusted. I was going to get he heater boxes and blower at a later stage.

[Wildthings]

It is almost an every day affair for a Type 4 engine that has sat a while to have zero compression on one or more cylinders, yet there is nothing really wrong with them. What happens is that carbon builds up in the intake port and when you crank the engine it falls down and blocks the valve from closing fully thus giving you zero compression. Once you get the engine started it may take as long as a minute to clear the carbon from the valve and then all will be well.

I just started up an 1800 FI engine that hasn't been run in probably more than ten years. I checked it over maybe 4-5 years ago and it had decent compression, but this time it only had marginal compression on one cylinder and none on the others. I got it started on the one cylinder and it belched and popped like crazy, but within a minute and a half was idling smoothly. The compression is good on all cylinders at this point.

I have been down the road of pulling an engine and ripping the heads off before only to find there was nothing wrong with the engine, I suspect that this is the path you have inadvertently taken.

[Dk123456789]

I managed to get the engine running on the 1 cylinder first and after a bit of work managed to get cylinder 2-3-4 all working. Cylinder one was firing but just popping and a big backfire out the exhaust every time you increased the revs. Would run and 3 cylinders but nothing on cylinder one even after leaving to run for 15 mins. Temp on the engine was fine as well.

Getting new pushrods (due to a dent in 2 of the caused from movement in exhaust mount.) and rings delivered tusday (with a log list of other bits and pieces). There is still the cross hatch showing on both cylinders so no issues there. Going to check and recheck all the measurements and tolerances before rebuilding them. Hopefully with all the carbon off and the rings may solve the issue.
Il keep you updated but thanks for all the help and advice. I'm sure il have more questions in the future.