Replacing Brake Line in Tunnel

[xenon]

Need to replace the rear brake line that goes through the tunnel on the 356B T-6. The fitting at the master cylinder will turn but the tube is frozen in the fitting. If I turn it any further it will snap. I've tried heat and penetrant, etc.
Any tips on how to replace this line? Feeling daunted at the moment.

[MMW]

How much heat are you using? I've never had one that didn't come loose from the line by heating the nut with a torch. I always put never seize on the tube before sliding the nut back up but I've only done a few.

You can also try asking here - www.abcgt.com

Maybe I mis-understood. Do you have to replace it no matter or you just think you need to because the fitting is frozen to the tube & you expect to break it?
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Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle

[xenon]

Thanks for the response. I have been heating the fittings with propane and using CRC Freeze-Off. All three of the fittings are turning but the tubes are frozen. Already broke the one going to the right front. Really don't want to break the one going to the rear as it looks like a bear to replace. Am at a standstill now.

[DBCouper]

Sometimes the tube gets bent slightly right at the fitting. As the fitting screws out of the cylinder, it binds on the tube. Check to see that the tube isn't bent, then pull the tube out as you unscrew the fitting. You can usually hear and feel it "snap" as it comes loose.

Rear line replacement on my A coupe was "bear". I found that it was easier to do it in two pieces, with a double female connector in the tunnel. The hard part was the little "s" bend to go around the shift linkage at the rear.

Dave
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When in doubt, gas it!