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How can I add compression to a built engine?
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hooker
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Max Welton wrote:
Barrel spacers go between the case and the cylinders. This increases deck-height by raising the cylinder, lowering the compression ratio.

hooker wrote:
Max Welton wrote:
And a compression test won't tell you anything about the compression ratio.

Max

===========================================

If you say so it must be true. Smile

It seems like compression test results should reveal something about compression ratio, right?

Try this: My last compression test numbers were all between 100 and 110. What do you now know about my compression ratio?

How about if I tell you it's a 1776 running an Engle-100 cam at 7500'. Any help? No?

How about if I tell you it cranks at 250 rpms? Anything?

Problem is there are too many other things that affect the readings much more. Like the condition of the rings and valves.

Max

===========================================
Using the info you have given me I would say you have a compression ratio of 7.5 to 1 if you were at sea level at 70* latitude. 70* F. on a standard day with 29.92 inches of mercury BP and using a stock or slightly modified VW camshaft. All providing the engine is in good tune/build. Smile
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jz56oval
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done the compression tests on all my cylinders and they were all good. I would have to look them up if needed.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hooker wrote:

===========================================
Using the info you have given me I would say you have a compression ratio of 7.5 to 1 if you were at sea level at 70* latitude. 70* F. on a standard day with 29.92 inches of mercury BP and using a stock or slightly modified VW camshaft. All providing the engine is in good tune/build. Smile
========================================

Not bad. It's actually 7.2:1.

Max
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hooker
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Max Welton wrote:
hooker wrote:

===========================================
Using the info you have given me I would say you have a compression ratio of 7.5 to 1 if you were at sea level at 70* latitude. 70* F. on a standard day with 29.92 inches of mercury BP and using a stock or slightly modified VW camshaft. All providing the engine is in good tune/build. Smile
========================================

Not bad. It's actually 7.2:1.

Max

================================

Thank you. Depends a lot on your barometric pressure the day you did the compression test. Like you said, a lot of variables and they all work together.
If you have the Engle 100 cam in it it would show that low reading since it does have a little more overlap than stock.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MConstable wrote:
jz56oval wrote:
So I'm guessing that the shims are between the block side and not head side?


Shims between the case and cylinders will tighten your deck #


Aaaah...NO....

Dale
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burdpete
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MConstable wrote:
jz56oval wrote:
So I'm guessing that the shims are between the block side and not head side?


Shims between the case and cylinders will tighten your deck #


Shocked Shocked
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

burdpete wrote:
MConstable wrote:
jz56oval wrote:
So I'm guessing that the shims are between the block side and not head side?


Shims between the case and cylinders will tighten your deck #


Shocked Shocked

Ya know, I just figured I'd leave that one for someone else to pick off. Laughing

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hooker
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:13 pm    Post subject: compression Reply with quote

It's a long road for one just starting out. I'll watch.
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MConstable
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now hold on, how will that not not lessen the deck ?
Freaking moron, got it backwards, ugh
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Kfeher2000
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Read this for how to measure deck height
http://www.aircooledtech.com/deck_height/

very helpful info
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MConstable wrote:
Now hold on, how will that not not lessen the deck ?
Freaking moron, got it backwards, ugh


Very Happy
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Dan Ruddock
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Back to the cam issue, Another idea if you don't want to split the case would be to use 1.0 to one rockers from a 40hp engine which would reduce the hammer effect along with using some good aluminum pushrods. This would reduce the lift to .429 and would help the valve train track the cam better.

Dan
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GTV
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan Ruddock wrote:
Back to the cam issue, Another idea if you don't want to split the case would be to use 1.0 to one rockers from a 40hp engine which would reduce the hammer effect along with using some good aluminum pushrods. This would reduce the lift to .429 and would help the valve train track the cam better.

Dan


Won't help the lifter bores.
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Dan Ruddock
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GTV wrote:
Dan Ruddock wrote:
Back to the cam issue, Another idea if you don't want to split the case would be to use 1.0 to one rockers from a 40hp engine which would reduce the hammer effect along with using some good aluminum pushrods. This would reduce the lift to .429 and would help the valve train track the cam better.

Dan


Won't help the lifter bores.


Sure it will.

Won't load the lifter as much because it is not opening the valve as fast and is not compressing the spring as much effectively reducing the spring tension load the lifters sees.

Dan
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lifting .430" at the valve is barely in "performance cam" territory.
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Dan Ruddock
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
lifting .430" at the valve is barely in "performance cam" territory.


I would agree but sometimes you have adapt to others mistakes.

I will always push big ratio (1.4+) rockers as the best way to get big lifts when the cam is designed for the ratio.

For a long lasting street cars I like to limit lift to .500

Dan
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jz56oval
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All of you have been very helpful and informational


Thanks
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jz56oval
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was thinking, since I got the engine pulled out. Wondering if I should have the cam changed to a 120. Will I need anything else that would need to be installed or changed while I'm in the process? If it's too costly then I'm just gonna check and set DH, and Cc the heads.
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jz56oval
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey all you guys. Happy turkey day.

I just got done pulling my engine heads off tonight and here are the #'s

The head cc's are 56
Deck height is. 126"

The DH seems really off. Any suggestions on what I do next? Also there is some black build up at the end of the pistons. Will this make a big difference on measurement on the DH? Do I need to mess around with my spacing or is there a calculation that will make it quicker?

Thanks again
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Comes out to 7.9:1.

IMO, the best way to raise that to whatever your cam needs is to trim the cylinders. Any machine shop can do that.

Use one of the on-line CR calculators to figure out what DH you need to reach a desired CR.

http://www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html

Max
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