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BDSBSS23
Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008
Posts: 1817
Location: Colorado
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ps2375
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Joined: April 24, 2014
Posts: 2471
Location: Meridian,ID
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 Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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| That totally depends upon how much you are taking off of motor to get it out. You could just drop the tranny to do the rear main seal. But if you are pulling it out, I'd take a good hard look at both outer motor mounts and timing belt and any and all seals on the front of motor. |
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Juanito84
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Joined: March 17, 2012
Posts: 2436
Location: Colorado Mountains
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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Check or replace motor mounts, timing belt, clutch, transmission seals, engine seals and any possible leaking gaskets.
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If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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pitargue
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Joined: December 24, 2006
Posts: 232
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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| clutch/pressure plate if needed. Definitely check all the motor mounts (4) to see if they need replacing. Shifter bushings? Shift rod bushings? Check your CV boots for rips. Replace tranny fluid, perhaps? |
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Juanito84
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Joined: March 17, 2012
Posts: 2436
Location: Colorado Mountains
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| Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 10:01 pm Post subject: |
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If taking out the engine, it would be a good time to check, and if necessary replace, your inner tie rod ends and their boots.
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If a water cooled engine cools its water with air, isn't it just an overcomplicated air cooled engine? |
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BDSBSS23
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Joined: January 03, 2008
Posts: 1817
Location: Colorado
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MK1derfull
Samba Member
Joined: December 20, 2014
Posts: 3
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 12:06 am Post subject: Rear main seal |
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| I read the last post and agree that a new head gasket is a good thing. But, you dont have to remove the engine to replace the rear main seal, the transmission is much lighter. You can support the engine, partly, on a jack, and remove the transmission with the help of a friend, its tiny. |
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AndyBees
Samba Member
Joined: January 31, 2008
Posts: 2328
Location: Southeast Kentucky
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| Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 4:55 pm Post subject: |
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Replacing the Head Gasket will not solve blow-by!
There is only one high pressure oil gallery between the head and block. Its located adjacent to a head bolt right off cylinder #3 near the front of the block up from the vacuum pump......... and, has been a known source for oil leak. However, replacement gaskets have a beefed-up seal for that area.
The oil drain back holes are in the back of the head and 99.99999% of the time are not a source of an oil leak.
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'84 Vanagon Tin-top, ALH TDI. 1989 Tin-top
1983 Air-cool, 225k miles, 180k miles mine. Seven trips to Alaska from 1986 thru 2003. |
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vwnutts
Samba Member
Joined: December 17, 2014
Posts: 14
Location: Richmond VA area
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| Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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If you do pull the motor, while it's out, check the intermediate shaft bearing, its basically two cam bearings that hold the whole shaft. The outter bearing wears, causes the pulley to be able to move around and makes it no spin straight along with the rest of the timing gears. That also drives the oil pump via gear in the motor.
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1970 std beetle, 1991 2 door Jetta (Best 1/4 mile 10.21@147) still a street car, 2001 1.8T 4 door golf, 2001 1.8T Jetta Wagon, 2009 TDI Jetta, 1999 F350. |
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zuhaelter_82
Samba Member
Joined: June 23, 2009
Posts: 1506
Location: Lincoln
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| Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 12:45 am Post subject: |
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You're in for a lot of fun... 
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64 Type II
MKI Jetta Coupe Diesel
MKI Jetta Sedan w/TD swap
B5 V6 GLS
B7 TDI Passat SE |
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