Hebmuller / 1949 Longblock Build

Mr. Okrasa · Last edited by Mr. Okrasa on Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:42 am; edited 2 times in total

These are the latest photos for an aluminum blocked 1949 engine that I'm putting together for a customers '49 Hebmuller. Enjoy! Cool

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

If your engine is not this clean BEFORE you start assembling your engine.....STOP!!! Re-clean until the inside is just as clean as the outside!

Shortblock together now......

_________________

See my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/okrasa/

1959 VW Karmann Ghia Coupe / Bamboo-Green / Denzel 1300cc / OG. owner, paint Wink

Denzel engine running. See this link: https://youtu.be/DgUlsQDTXTE

VW www.Okrasa.com
356 www.PreA356.com

beetlekey

You haven´t cut a little hole from the front to the middle ?
So every time a half liter of old oil stay in the engine when you change the oil. That is a startermistake.
Later VW have made that cut from factoryproduction.
Marcus
_________________
Hebmüller 581
1953 oval Typ 11G metalblue
1966 1300

If you are searching for vintage keys, look here:
https://www.facebook.com/WagenmanufakturHO

Mr. Okrasa

pastellgreen · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 4:09 am Post subject:

He didn't ment you to be a starter! He means that it was a children's disease from these early VW engines and that VW recognized this and changed it in later production. (VW was the "starter") Cool

beetlekey · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 1:12 pm Post subject:

you opend the camshaftbox behind the oilpump ore not?
_________________
Hebmüller 581
1953 oval Typ 11G metalblue
1966 1300

If you are searching for vintage keys, look here:
https://www.facebook.com/WagenmanufakturHO

mandraks · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 2:58 pm Post subject:

conversations between german english speakers and american english speakers can turn so quickly Smile

i recommend to all american english speakers to perform a simple test before they get irate and jump on german english speakers:

can the question be answered with "yes", "no" or a value like "12"? if so, that is the appropriate response.

if the test fails, go ahead jump....
_________________
regards

Uli

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'53 3-Fold Oval, L35 Metallic Blue, looking for a narrow hatch panel

roymartian · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 6:36 pm Post subject:

Ok lets get this back on track with a technical question;

Whats correct procedure to start up a completely rebuilt 25 hp engine

Turn over with starter first with plugs out to circulate oil?
Run for how long at revs?
Empty and flush?
Run in period?

Thanks,
R

3foldfolly · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 8:22 pm Post subject:

I think it's a legitimate question that deserves consideration and a reply.

usariemen · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 11:01 pm Post subject:

pastellgreen · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 1:07 pm Post subject:

As Marcus tried to say: There has to be a breakthrough in the wall between the "crankroom" and the "room" for the two spur-gears from crankshaft and camshaft. Otherwise you won't be able to change oil completely, there will rest half a liter of oil without that breakthrough. VW has learned that and switched to it on January 1950.
It is not a "must have" but it is a "nice to have". In my opinion it makes sense to optimise the early engine a little bit, for more reliability. But I also respect if people want to stay original to the core.
I think (juged by watching his pictures) Mr Okrasa does a nice and proper work and always made people happy with his rebuilds. If he would not live over the ocean, he would be also my adress for my engine...

Zwitterkafer · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 4:37 pm Post subject:

The client should be aware of this quirk of the block design. Might there be room to use an extractor through the oil filler neck, to empty the cam gear chamber? Actually, I'm more interested in the block cleaning process that was used here......
_________________
"Criticism comes easier than Craftsmanship"
- Zeuxius, 400 BC

beetleseb · Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:38 am Post subject:

Well I for one want to thank beetlekey. I will definitely make that mod on my oldspeed 49 case.

Please let us know any other mods and tricks you know. Maybe a thought for a new thread.
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Wanted - OG 50 split bug door panels, brown mats and old running boards

peter schepens · Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 5:05 am Post subject:

I am sure Joe will contact the owner. If not, I will inform him...as it is for an Hebmuller Smile

_________________
Zelensis, glassfibre body made in Belgium , disigned and built on a VW platform About 25 body's built.
Hebmuller info wanted for http://www.hebmueller-registry.com/home.html

campingbox · Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:46 am Post subject:

Ivan Fuller · Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 10:46 am Post subject:

Glass beads = death to a motor.

They stick in the pores of the metal then come out when it gets hot. I have tried carefully blocking every orifice and fastidious cleaning and had premature failures twice - do not try this. It only takes a few grains of glass to damage bearings - they stick in the soft metal and wear away bearing surfaces.

Soda is the safest media - it dissolves in water and will not do the damage.

campingbox · Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:33 pm Post subject:

beetlekey · Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 2:29 am Post subject:

sunroof · Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 7:32 am Post subject:

Do you mean the deflector shown here? Looks kinda like a wing.

Don

beetlekey · Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 8:36 am Post subject:

Ivan Fuller · Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 12:21 pm Post subject:

Lets look at it this way.

You suggest a fantastic way of detailing a motor. The finish looks awesome (and I think what has been done here also).

Some members of the forum read this think this is also a great idea and rush off to do the same. As with my experience they don't happen to remove every last bit of media and the result is catastrophic engine failure - which didn't happen to me because I noted symptoms in time.

Its irresponsible to suggest something without letting people know associated risks with such a procedure or what they have to do to eliminate them. Getting it just a little bit wrong is disastrous.

You do remove all plugs from all oil galleries to ensure you can rod out all these don't you?.... something beyond the capability of many who choose to build their own engines and not mentioned in any factory manual - call them lazy if you wish).

You can call me lazy too if you want but I have also done it without problems - pretty much required if you want to replicate Joes Gold finish on electron cases.

I can tell you that pressure flushing all galleries with clean solvent with the parts washer and repeatedly blasting out the galleries with compressed air for more than a day doesn't do it

I'll also make another couple of comments - media blasting with glass beads peens the surface of aluminium, permanently alters the structure and destroys originality that cannot be bought back. It looks fantastic but wont pass muster for originality in a top concours. There are other ways that brighten and clean aluminium or electron.

I am sure most engine machines shops will have more than one story about glass beads - mine does.

A senior engineer with a certain National airline warned me of the dangers of glass beads - I ignored his advice and it didn't go well - I can only assume the practice is not allowed in aviation engines - I wonder why.

People can make their own choice. yes it can be done. A few stray beads = death.


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