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1st sand rail
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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 3:12 pm    Post subject: 1st sand rail Reply with quote

i believe its a Berrien short back with trans axle and 1600. needs steering u-joint and throttle cable, i want to make street legal so i can drive it to the local Pismo Dunes[img][/img]
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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you mean swing axle?
That rear brake drum looks like a reduction transaxle drum.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably early straight swing axle with standard wide five drum...

You need to look at SPCN (SPecial CoNstruction) registration requirements as green sticker will not let you drive on "street"...

Dale
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Brian
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not too sure we can have street legal rails here.
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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive seen a few here locally, not sure if they had Cali plates or not. got some pics last night, let me know what you guys think
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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

as far as I can tell they had to cut 2 bars to make the seats fit, had to cut 1 bar to clearing steering box. Im still thinking this is a modified Berrien short back, maybe some home build. any recomendation on steering joint and throttle cable?
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B Ramsey
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

not worth it to make street legal, you will need a windsheild, blinkers, etc.

looks like the steering box has been whacked and is pointed down. welding the bottom clamp to the tube prevents this. you can get the parts you are looking for from any supllier they are common try mooreparts.
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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

so the steering box needs to be parallel to the ground? ill weld that bottom bracket in.
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B Ramsey
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rotate it so the column goes straight into the box. that should be good. UNLESS it was installed that way becuse the tubing interferes with the steering column. in that case you will need more work.
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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think they cut a piece a tube their so it fits, ill run the steering shaft straight with the steering coumn. right now it has a steel stiff cable for throttle control, it sticks and bind, need to find a replacemnet and fab it up.
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I knew it had lay down reduction boxes!
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, thought those might be something special, notice alot of beef welding going on those for the shocks. Really dont like the hard plastic seats, keeping my eyes out for some Empi Race Trim seats, i know they had to cut the cage to get these plastic guys to fit. i will mount new seats prior to welding new cross bars on the side.
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B Ramsey
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if your good at fabricating stuff, i prefer to make a throttle tube out of some small (3/8") tubing and run a cable. this is reliable and simple, dont get the EMPI plastic tube with a cable inside piece of crap. a Morse cable will good as well.
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does it say on the aluminum mounting blocks that hold the front axle beam to the chassis?
There was only several chassis manufacturers that use them, Funco, Hi-jumper, and Panzer. That is the ones I know of. They were common in the 1970s.
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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

im good at fabbing, i work as a manufacturing engineer, right now it has a 3/8" tube with hard cable going from throttle to engine, i dont like it, its dumb idea for the dunes. right now the cable binds and sticks, so i was planning on fabbing one. why wouldnt i want to use a sealed throttle cable. i was thinking of using a shifter cable for boats, their thick enough where it will barely fit in the 3/8" tube and they have threaded ends to easily attach.
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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just spent 30 minutes comparing Funco, Panzer and Hi Jumper, out of the 3 my looks most like an early Hi Jumper, except i have different style rear end and i dont of the loop in windshirled going all the way to floor.
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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26%2D798%2D555 thinking this pedal hydraulic assymbley.
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simplest and best throttle cable is use short (2 inch) steel tubes where angles change and standard throttle cable, bulk of cable will be in open.... Less area in tube and less sliding resistance (morse cable or out board boat cable) will make easier throttle.... Do no over think throttle cable, less is more....

Dale
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"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
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Last edited by Dale M. on Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:14 am; edited 1 time in total
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Fishmaster85
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26%2D425%2D160
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