Clutch Pedal Replacement - Help/Suggestions?

[windnsea]

I have followed the other two threads on this subject, but need a little help:

I have the dash out do some other things back there, and am attempting to do the clutch pedal replacement. I got the C-clip off of the transverse pedal shaft, but when trying to convince the pedal shaft to move to the right, it will only go about 1/2 inch and then it is a dead stop.

I agree that with 31 years and 340,000 miles since it was assembled it might be tough to undo without a complete disassembly of the pedal mechanisms, but sheesh!

I tried to pro-offer a little WD-40 last night, but still no movement . Any suggestions?? It is a tight fit, but I can see how some have been able to do it.

Thanks in advance!!

Windnsea

['88MoneyPit]

I used short wood dowel and a dead blow hammer.

Stephen

[Thor-bob]

I cut a 2" hole in the sheet metal behind the left headlight bucket (a Thor-bob port?)

You can now work on that mess with ease and drift the giant pin to the right for easy removal of the clutch pedal. While it was out, replaced the bushing (hardly worn) and welded and reamed the clevis pin hole for the master clutch actuator (lots worn).

Also - a few extra unused horns on the clutch pedal.... cut them off and the pedal fits in place a whole lot easier.

Thor-bob

[syncrodoka]

You have the dash out why not just pull the cluster out and do the work on the bench? It is much easier to do the work and preset the gap needed as well. It really isn't a huge deal and after those many miles it could use some freshening up.
Paint the pedals, inspect the brake pedal clevis and pin etc.
You will only have to do the job once for the next few decades.

[windnsea]

I have finally found time to reply about replacing my clutch pedal. With the dash off, I removed the M-Cyl from the brake booster, removed the brake booster after taking the cotter pin out of the clevis pin, and got ready to remove the pedal assy. I first, bled the clutch system to see if there had been any air in the system – there was none. So, I lastly measured the free play of the clutch pedal from its dead stop to initial engagement – it was 1 inch of free play. I unbolted the clutch master from the pedal assy and then removed the assy with pedals intact.

The pivot pin which goes through the clutch pedal and the brake pedal was really on there, so I used penetrating oil repeatedly before pressing the pin through the assy and pedals. It had a lot of dead (original) grease on it which had to come off before I micro polished the pin.

The brake pedal bushings also needed to be cleaned and polished; I should have gotten new ones and pressed the old ones out, but the fit with the cleaned pedal and pin were still totally tight, so I reassembled using the recommended grease – at least what was recommended 30 years ago in the Bentley manual!

To address the free play of the clutch pedal, I mounted it on another pin with the master cylinder actuator rod affixed on the bench. The clutch pedal from its dead stop is at or close to 45 degrees from vertical (or horizontal), so I used this as my dead stop position and put a zeroed dial gauge on the top of the vertical actuator rod assy. Putting 1 inch of motion on the end of the clutch pedal surface (my free play) gave me a downward motion on the top of the actuator rod of .130 inch. So I lengthened the actuator rod .125 inch by loosening its retention bolt, unscrewing it out and retightening the retention bolt.

Reassembled everything, and it’s better than new. My clutch pedal now starts to feel resistance about an eighth of an inch from its dead stop. So, there is a ratio of 8:1 for the clutch pedal free play to the M-cyl engagement/fluid compression start.

Hope this will help others who need to refurbish the pedal assembly. Next scheduled maintenance should be in about the year 2045! UH-OH! I’ll be 95 then!

Windnsea

[Vanagon Nut]

fwiw, while shopping around gowesty, found this rebuilt clutch pedal from GW:

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4365&category_id=&category_parent_id=
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[syncrodoka]

If you have access to a welder you can rebuild it yourself for less than 10% of their price and you can have it done quickly.

Few examples
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=546426&highlight=rebuild+clutch+pedal
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=436753&highlight=rebuild+clutch+pedal

VC stocks new pedal bushings for the arm http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/smartlist_1518/pedal-pieces-c1518

A pedal in good shape vs one with a worn pivot pin hole and clevis pin is a night and day difference.

[Vanagon Nut]

[LFSchelin]

I noticed that Thor-Bob cut a 2" hole in the metal behind the left headlight. I too have at least a 2-3" play in the clutch pedal before starting to engage. Thinking about removing the dash seemed like a major headache. I also read where a couple of members did the work by removing the driver's seat laying on their backs and were able to install their new clutch pedals. I removed the seat so I could assess the situation...not going to work for me.

I'm going with Thor-Bob's idea of cutting a hole of the firewall behind the left headlight. I'll post pics of my progress.