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8 inch narrowed beam
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kielbasa
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 2:31 pm    Post subject: 8 inch narrowed beam Reply with quote

Long story short, I'm forced to build an 8" narrowed beam to keep the tires inside the fenderwell. Cb spindles, old dune buggy wheels, and disc brakes that push the wheel out 3 inches per side.

I'm curious who has driven an 8 inch beam. I've built and driven lots of narrowed beams. Biggest was a 6inch. My old 68 had a 5" with shocks (4lug centerlines have shitty offset) and I thought it was one of the best riding cars I've driven.

But 8 seems quite extreme but would like to hear with you guys with expierence. Also is there room to add a custom shock tower? Or will the lower shock mount be too close to the body to make it work?

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slalombuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

8" will place the shock towers solidly in the fuel tank. I'm building something similar for a special ops project, your going to want to go to center streer or a small rack. Even with center steer, tie rod angles are sever

brad
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kielbasa
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seseen 6 inch beams use a whacky shock tower and use ball joint shock. I was curious if that setup would work with 8 inches. But doesn't seem like it not mater the trick.

They do make tie rod flips to change the angle. I wasnt even concerned about tie rods at this point just want to get it back on the ground.

8 inch looks like it will put steering box right up against the shock tower upright. May need to grind a little notch out of it but seems like it will work. Would have less problems with a beam built from scratch and use stupid urethane bushings. But no way will I use those
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

"old dune buggy wheels" on a bug is a mistake
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you roll'in the Chap's on your ride bro Cool
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kielbasa
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have no idea what your talking about. Might want to tell that to all the guys running cal parts and et's ect..... wheels with horrible offset for a street car. I'm lucky mine aren't horrible. But still an old 2pc wheel.

Now that I think about it. I was told I was going to have horrible bump steer problems on my 68 when I built the 5 inch beam. When I drove it. It had no obvious issues. Curious how the 8 inch will work out.
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kielbasa
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah johnny. Chaps!
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

talk with sam at Autowerks Suspension(he has ads for scratch built beams in the classifieds) out of kingsport,tn....... i'm fairly sure he has done one in the range you are talking about.

you don't have to use the urethane bushings. theres also the Saco delrin bushing option. thats whats in the conversion beam in my squareback.

i know 8 and even 10" beams have been done so it's possible.
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kielbasa
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My point was I don't want bushings at all. But thanks for the tip
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The angle I was refering to is the angle front to back from the pitman arm to the steering arms. IF you keep the box your left tierod is going to have an extreme angle and bump steer wil be horrible. On the beam I'm building I have the box in the middle and it you can see the toe change quite a bit with equal length tie rods and less angle than you will have.

brad
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kielbasa
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is this center steer your using? Curious what is your similar build is if you don't mind sharing.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moved the steering box to the middle of the beam on a tube chassis car for a buddy You cant do it on a pan car for obvious reasons that's why i suggested a small rack with shortened rods. Sorry no pics its a :snipersmile: project

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kielbasa
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Much better. Not sure how happy I'll be with the ride. If it sucks.... back to drums and a new beam. Car won't be finished for quite some time but for now this will work.

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esde
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How long is the finished drivers side tie rod? How's the angle when weight is on the car?
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you leave the full stack of torsion leaves in? I bet they're stiffer from being shortened so much. You could pull the smaller ones out to soften the ride if needed (cut short pieces and tack them in place where the grub screws are). I did that on my 3" beam and it rides better than stock.
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kielbasa
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not done cutting leaves or tie rods if I pull leaves, it will lower the car. Not what I want when using drop spindles, would have been a good IDEA to crank the centers up before welding then remove leaves. If it's too stiff I'll just make a new beam and try that.

Ran into a problem with a cb spindle machined wrong. Also have to find new wheel studs to fit the jamar hubs to work with my wheels.

I want to figure out a shock tower setup if I can find a short enough shock.
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Miklo
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I run an 8" narrowed beam in my 66 Beetle.

Not cut or hammered anywhere, all German steel.

CB dropped spindles.

American Eagle 5 spokes. 145/65's

No shock towers. Your going to need extremely short shocks.

Crappy urethane bushings. I said crappy but I haven't had any problems yet... White grease, LOTS of white grease.

Custom 6061 aluminum tie rods. I can measure them later if needed. There's water falling from the sky outside, which is weird.

Non flipped tie rod ends. At full slam my tie rods hit the body. I don't ride full slam.

Running all torsion leaves. DO NOT leave any out, it will be way too weak. Say goodbye to having passengers... If you are low.

Rides and tracks/turns fine. Just have some rub on the inner fenderwells.

The only time I have problems with ackerman is when I reverse and turn.

Bump steer isn't any worse than 4-6" beams Ive run in multiple Vws throught the years.

Would I run another... sure.

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kielbasa
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool thanks. I wouldn't mind geting a measurement for tie rods when you get the time. So it doesn't ride too stiff to you? I only plan on lowering with 2.5" cb spindles. I didn't even weld adjusters in the beam. They wouldnt fit anyways. I never. Noticed any amount of bump steer with my old 5" beam. I figured I'll run the beam as is and if I have a problem I'll work it out then. But thank you for the info.
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Miklo
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not too stiff for me and i'm low. Wink

You can try removing the smaller leaves just like theastronaut mentioned above... It may or may not smooth out the ride. It may possibly increase bump steer too, from lack of shock and leave support.
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kielbasa
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see your in socal doug. Where at? Come swing by and pick me up for a ride so I know what I'm getting myself into Wink this car won't be done for a while.
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