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Head Gasket Replacement
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luvtheeluvbug
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:26 pm    Post subject: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

I'm doing a partial rebuild on my engine to fix a couple oil leaks. I discovered that the majority of the leak is the oil cooler which has sprayed oil everywhere. I just disassembled everything on top of the engine today (fan shroud, generator, manifold, etc.). I'm not sure if I'll put new seals on the push rod tubes yet but, if I do, I would like to know; do I need new head gaskets once I take them off?
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andrewvwclassic
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont quite understand what you are saying. take the gaskets off or the valve covers. The heads themselves dont use gaskets they sit agains the jugs naked. there are 3 gakets in that region the valve cover gasket the cylinder gaskets which are on the case side and the ones which you already mentioned on the pushrod tubes. if you come into contact with anything made of paper I would change them. make sure you keep the mating surfaces clean and rub gear oil on them before you assemble. I would buy a hwhole engine gasket set and replace the ones in the cooler too they can get a little stiff from heat which causes leaks over time. They will also give you new valve cover gaskets in the kit if you think those need to be replaced as well.
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modok
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Head gasket=blinker fluid=muffler bearing

(there is no gasket between head and cylinder)
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 6:38 am    Post subject: Re: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

luvtheeluvbug wrote:
I'm not sure if I'll put new seals on the push rod tubes yet but, if I do, I would like to know; do I need new head gaskets once I take them off?


As posted above, no head gaskets on these.

But if you do pull the heads off, keep the cylinders from coming apart from the engine block, or you'll need to re-seal those there. Some may have thin paper gaskets there, some were re-built using RTV, Permatex, or Gascacinch.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the past I am confident I've read somewhere that it is not a bad idea to 'lap or grind' the heads to the barrel using fine paste on the top mate surface of the barrel to the head and course paste on the other mate surface of barrel to head.

This will make a close airtight fit.

No guarantee!
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luvtheeluvbug
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright. I just read the manual and it said that only pre '63 engines use head gaskets.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

luvtheeluvbug wrote:
Alright. I just read the manual and it said that only pre '63 engines use head gaskets.


None of these engines used head gaskets. Some early engines had a thin paper gasket that was run at the base of the barrels, but those are never re-installed on rebuilds.
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BugMan114
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, no head gaskets. They do sell spacers that sorta act like head gaskets, but they're mostly for changing C/R. But they're not for stock engines.

Now the bottom of all cylinders did use paper gaskets between the case and cylinders to prevent oil from leaking. I like to use them on stock cylinders. They don't work well on larger cylinders because when you bore out the case for them, the already thin sealing area the gasket sits on, gets even thinner causing the paper gaskets to squish out. So i just use some silicone or something on larger cylinder engines.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check to see that the bolts/nuts that hold your crankcase halves together are properly torqued.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smile Buy a gskt set for a 1600 engine that will have the push tube seals inside.....as for the rest of the items keep the set for a whatever comes up.

8 spring loaded push tubes is the way to go. Pull the rocker arms...remove push rods...pry out the old tubes...clean the 8 holes with ACETONE and wipe dry. You will need 8 extra seals for the middle of the push tubes against the flat washer to the spring....helps to avoid any leak there.

(VW mechanic)
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bashr52 wrote:
luvtheeluvbug wrote:
Alright. I just read the manual and it said that only pre '63 engines use head gaskets.


None of these engines used head gaskets. Some early engines had a thin paper gasket that was run at the base of the barrels, but those are never re-installed on rebuilds.


stale-air cars (i.e. before Dec 62) did have copper seals around the tops of the cylinders on the heads to avoid the possibility of combustion gasses leaking into the heater

of course that's a matter not to be discussed in the 68-up forum Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 6:44 am    Post subject: Re: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

Hi Folks:

I realize this thread was a while back but it is very helpful. I have the heads off to replace the push rod tubes and seals, which are all junk. Three of the four cylinders stayed flush with the block at removal but one slid forward a bit. What would the harm be if I took off all four cylinders by sliding out over the pistons and letting pistons just sit there? I would replace all four seals against the block and it would seem to me that this would be the time to just purchase new, stock diameter rings for the pistons. Or, is sliding the cylinders off creating an issue with getting them back on, especially with new rings? Maybe not, but, never having done this, I don't want to create new problems.

If this is all advised, can someone send me a link to the cylinder/block seals and piston rings that are preferred. My motor is stock, 1600cc. It seems that I will need to at least re-seal the one cylinder that slid.

Thanks!
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 7:06 am    Post subject: Re: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

sun-bug74 wrote:
I realize this thread was a while back but it is very helpful. I have the heads off to replace the push rod tubes and seals, which are all junk. Three of the four cylinders stayed flush with the block at removal but one slid forward a bit. What would the harm be if I took off all four cylinders by sliding out over the pistons and letting pistons just sit there? I would replace all four seals against the block and it would seem to me that this would be the time to just purchase new, stock diameter rings for the pistons. Or, is sliding the cylinders off creating an issue with getting them back on, especially with new rings? Maybe not, but, never having done this, I don't want to create new problems.

If this is all advised, can someone send me a link to the cylinder/block seals and piston rings that are preferred. My motor is stock, 1600cc. It seems that I will need to at least re-seal the one cylinder that slid.


There are generally no seals at either end of the cylinders; sometimes there is a gasket at the interface of cylinders and case, but most use only a sealant there. And no seals or sealant between the cylinders and the heads.

Yes, you can pull the cylinders off to seal, and then reinstall them, just line the gaps correctly as per the manual. Or you can use brand-new rings, but for that folks usually hone the cylinders a tad. There won't be an install issue with brand-new rings. Be sure to have a ring compressor that comes apart to do this job however !!

I think somewhere in my resurrection thread I mentioned or showed what I used under the cylinders in my latest engine build https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=664950&highlight=resurrection
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sun-bug74
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 9:33 am    Post subject: Re: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

Thanks. My mechanic has a tad and he will hone out the jugs for me. I see that you have referenced JB Weld Steel Stick if I don't see old gaskets (or even if I do but cannot find new ones).

Do you recommend a certain brand of rings? No need to skimp. Do you know the proper size and type of ring tool to use? I am willing to buy one but I just want to get the right one.
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sun-bug74
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 9:37 am    Post subject: Re: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

Also, what is the correct size ring for a stock 1600?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 9:58 am    Post subject: Re: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

sun-bug74 wrote:
Thanks. My mechanic has a tad and he will hone out the jugs for me. I see that you have referenced JB Weld Steel Stick if I don't see old gaskets (or even if I do but cannot find new ones).

Do you recommend a certain brand of rings? No need to skimp. Do you know the proper size and type of ring tool to use? I am willing to buy one but I just want to get the right one.

Deves, Grant,.... Look in the classifieds here and locate a stock set rings.

You have to measure your pistons before ordering rings. After all these years, the engine has been rebuilt a few times and likely had parts swapped.

Seal the cylinders to the case with a light coat of RTV, pick your favorite color.

For a ring compressor. You can rent one from an auto parts store.
I use a metal shipping crate banding strap, cut to fit the piston diameter.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 7:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

Thanks. Is it possible to just use piston ring pliers to take the old ones off and then to put the new ones on? Can you explain more about the compressor and why that is necessary. All new to me. Maybe a pic?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 7:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

You need a ring compressor to get the pistons back into the cylinders.
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sun-bug74
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2022 5:24 am    Post subject: Re: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

Ah, got it. Thanks.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2022 11:04 am    Post subject: Re: Head Gasket Replacement Reply with quote

Rings for original VW piston/cylinders:
GRANT 311-198-169A (98-1169-B)
This set is 2x2x5, so measure your ring groove height to verify.
If you have a glaze or crosshatch is gone, a honing may be in order.
I recommend a 3 stone hone for used cylinders.

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Remove carbon buildup on EVERYTHING!!!

While you have apart, inspect the mating surface of the cylinder to head.
If it is clean with no etching and the original machining is good shape, you may be good to go.
If there is evidence of etching or carbon blow by or buildup on the mating surfaces, you may want to research lapping the cylinders to the head to improve seal.

+1 on the additional advice stated above.

Good luck
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