CV Grease

[luvtheeluvbug]

I'm rebuilding my CV joints and the manual says to use CV grease. Well, the manual was published 40 years ago so, does it even exist? If it does, can I simply use wheel bearing grease? It seems that they would be very similar.
By the way, who still has their original CV joints? I was surprised to see that all four of mine were the originals and even better, they are in really good condition; three of them are practically in brand new shape and only the fourth one is getting thrown out because the boot failed and caused pitting.
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It's HP (High Pressure) grease these days. It is not the same as axel grease. Axel grease relies on fast moving bearings. The CV joint is almost motionless with lots of load.

[Harleyelf]

Many boots come with new bolts and grease. Ask to see what's in the box.

[Aussiebug]

The correct grease is a molybdenum disulfide grease. It's always black in colour due to the Moly in it, and is usually called HP (high pressure) or EP (extreme pressure) grease.

Castrol LMM is one version, but most oil companies will have a suitable grease.

As ptjjb says above, it works best in the CV joints which just rock the balls back and forwards a little as the suspension works; unlike wheel bearings which need a Lithium bearing grease which suits and rolling motion of the balls/rollers.
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Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
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[gargamel]

Good to know when I need new grease. Just wondering:

Not that I am looking for another (dirty) task to do but, I had loosened one side of my cv assembly (while re-indexing the rear). There was still ample grease there but it seemed that the grease dried just a but as it was more like mud than the it would be straight from the tube.. Not sure how long it has been serviced but it seems like an original and they run well. Is this ok or should I look into repacking with new grease?

I thought I ask here on a related topic vs. starting a new one.

[Randy in Maine]

They are actually to be clenaqed and repacked about ever 30K miles. I use this stuff but any parts store or NAPA can get CV joiunt grease for you. I keep a tube of it in my tool box for whenever I need a little lube on something.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82

[gargamel]

So it is safe to assume I need to service them based on the appearance alone? I guess I will be spending some quality time getting to know my cv joints much more then I was hoping for.

[Randy in Maine]

I would so that you will know that they have been properly serviced uner your ownership. I just buy a "re-pack kit" from Bus Depot x 4 of them. About $60 and takes me basically a day to do all 4.

Been here?

http://www.type2.com/bartnik/cvjoints.htm

[Donnie strickland]

I use Valvoline Dura Blend grease, as it's appropriate for both wheel bearings and CV joints. Been using it for 20 years with no problems.

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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[Juanito84]

Any parts store has CV joint grease. Just ask for some. Yes, the manual is 40 years old. But you still use engine oil in the engine, gear oil in the gear box, wheel bearing grease in the wheel bearings, and CV joint grease in the CV joints. Gasoline still goes in the gasoline tank if you were wondering.

Personnally I'd be weary about those multi-purpose greases. Bearings need an entirely different kind of lubrication than CV joints do. You wouldn't put the same oil in your engine as in your transmission would you?

You really can't get any better grease than good ol' CV joint molybdenum disulfied grease. I've never seen a CV joint go out unless it either didn't have enough grease or dirt got into it. Once packed with the correct amount of grease, simply checking the boots for tears periodically and regreasing and replacing when they tear is the best insurance for your CV joints.
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[Tim Donahoe]

I just buy Sta-Lube Black Moly.

The name says it all

Tim

[luvtheeluvbug]

If I've already packed one with bearing grease, can I just pack in the CV grease or should I take it apart and start over?
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[Juanito84]

[luvtheeluvbug]

That reply was much appreciated. Because I'm younger, people tend to assume that I don't know what I'm talking about or than I can't learn what they know. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. It was great to get a true technical response that explains the reason rather than "I've done it that way for 40 years" or something smart like:

[bnam]

If the wheel bearing grease you used contains Moly di-sulphide, you should be ok.

[Joey]

Any EP-2 grease with a moly additive will do. Same grease used on universal joints.
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Joey

‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle

[Donnie strickland]

DP
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback

[Donnie strickland]

[gargamel]

I see myself heading over to my FLAPS and getting some Valvoline DureBlend grease, as pictured above.

Realistically, what are the odds that my CV joints are still good-to-go? They have not made any noise. IF they are the original ones, I guess I will clean the grease and open up a pandora's box (AKA my wallet) to find wear.