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depth of camshaft clearancing
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 3:25 pm    Post subject: depth of camshaft clearancing Reply with quote

Any idea to what depth I will need to notch an Engle cam to clear I beam rods on an 82mm crank? What's the maximum safe amount I can notch it? It would be a lot less work to simply mark where to notch it, then notch it to the safe maximum then check for ample clearance.
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just mocked up a client's 82 SCAT with VW journal SCAT rods. I only need to remove about 1mm off the four spots on the cam, but will remove about 2mm to be safe. It really depends on what parts you're using. To be safe, you can copy a cast in clearanced cam's depth.
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vwracerdave
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to mock it up and measure. You need at least .040" clearance.
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwracerdave wrote:
You need to mock it up and measure. You need at least .040" clearance.


Dumb question, but how do I possibly pre-measure the required clearance from a present situation of interference?
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy1967 wrote:
Just mocked up a client's 82 SCAT with VW journal SCAT rods. I only need to remove about 1mm off the four spots on the cam, but will remove about 2mm to be safe. It really depends on what parts you're using. To be safe, you can copy a cast in clearanced cam's depth.


I am also using scat rods. Are your I beam or h beam? Mine are I beam vw journal scats.
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chrisflstf
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
but how do I possibly pre-measure the required clearance from a present situation of interference?


He means you need to remove material until you have a min of .040" of clearance. Just go slow and take you time, if doing yourself
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northof49 wrote:
vwracerdave wrote:
You need to mock it up and measure. You need at least .040" clearance.


Dumb question, but how do I possibly pre-measure the required clearance from a present situation of interference?


You need to put gears on the crank and cam, fit a rod either with a P&C or rubber bands through the studs to centre the little end. Rotate in one direction until it hits the cam and scribe a mark, rotate in the other direction and scribe another mark. Grind between the two marks, then mock it up again and check. Don't get the cam too hot when grinding, you don't want to change it's properties.
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

H Beam. Just measured a pre-clearanced casted in cam, and the narrow areas are 4mm smaller than the non-clearanced, so if you didn't have the parts to mock-up, 2mm per relief would be adequate.

The measurements were approx 23mms on the non-clearanced areas, and 19mms on the clearanced areas.

The best way is to mock up though, and remove only what is needed
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the pre-clearanced cams have the reliefs cast in ,not machined? Why don't thet make them all on preclearanced blanks then?

I am considering offsetting it in the lathe by the desired clearance and cutting the reliefs that way. That way it's only cut on one side.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northof49 wrote:
Why don't thet make them all on preclearanced blanks then?


They could and they should but VW people are cheap assed bastards and many people would shit their pants because people that do not need a pre-clearance cam would have to spend $15 more then they need to spend.
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aha, well said.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmm, maybe not. I don't see how it'd cost more for the pre-clearanced blanks. They're less material, and all blanks come from one, or a couple of places. I think companies charge more for them because they can. They COULD be exactly the same price, and the old casting could be eliminated.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be milling a camshaft possibly this week, because I think my machine shop grinds the cam, which is kind of scary to me because of the heat.

A 3/4" end mill for cutting steel with rounded ends is what I'll use. I have a SCAT cam to use as reference. The oil pump drive lines up with two of the spots that need clearancing. I'ma go reeeeal slow and use a bunch of coolant.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 7:32 pm    Post subject: cam clearancing Reply with quote

I've clearanced an Engle FK8 trying to remove as little material as possible. It took several mock-ups...to complete the work.

Since then I've always purchased notched or turned cams. I currently use a Raptor cam that was nicely turned (with proper edge radius) by JPM. Here's a good thread on the subject:

http://ultimateaircooled.com/engines/8629-clearancing-cam.html
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I mark the cam areas that need clearancing and hit it with an acorn steel carbide bit. Ive had to remove quite a bit on the last 2110 I did. Even in the back side of the cam collar. My first k8 cam on the 2276 had no clearancing required on the cam. With the web 86c 8 had to do crank and cam. Wait till you have no choice and have to grind the crank c/w throws! That kinda sucks. Even if you have web or another shop preclearance a cam for you and then nitride it, doesnt mean everythings going to fit. Sucks but its the name of the game. Gotta look see.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

diferent rods and journol sizes and stroke will dictate the amount needed to be removed if any.pauter said it's better to remove it by turning the cam down,it might be I dont realy know,Ive done it both ways.my hyd roller is on a preclearanced blank but will probably need more clearancing for the 3/8 rods&86 stroke. Ill do what it needs. and remember the rod needs to be in the correct location when it is done, not just dangling.
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2014 10:25 pm    Post subject: Re: cam clearancing Reply with quote

neil68 wrote:
I've clearanced an Engle FK8 trying to remove as little material as possible. It took several mock-ups...to complete the work.

Since then I've always purchased notched or turned cams. I currently use a Raptor cam that was nicely turned (with proper edge radius) by JPM. Here's a good thread on the subject:

http://ultimateaircooled.com/engines/8629-clearancing-cam.html


Thanks Neil! You just scared me into turning this Engle cam instead of milling, or notching it. Seems easier to do too.
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took some measurements of my engle cam, and it is between .890 and .910 in diameter between the lobes. According to Don Pauter, minimum turned diameter is 0.800

There isn't a lot of interference between my rod (caps) and the cam on this 82mm crank, but until I remove material and can gain clearance, I have no measurable parameter.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my thinking is thicker is stronger....but a flat can easyer to bend than a round...but..Ive never tested it on a clamshaft.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy1967 wrote:
I think companies charge more for them because they can.


thats why I call BS on the extra "time" some places say they spend which raises the price but then you receive a cam with cast in notches.
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