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Rough running after freeway miles--checklist
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The maddening thing about the idle on this system is that it FOOLS you.

Technically.....as it warms up.....it will not get richer. As the CHT temp rises and resistance falls.....that makes it leaner.
But if you are already too rich, once the engine is warmed up....the need for that excessively rich background setting....decreases Wink .....so it ACTS like its getting richer.

The increasing idle is part of ths "I fooled you " pattern. Whats causing it is the fact that at idle and virtually any rpm below 1500.....because this is paired injection and two injectors are out of time (injecting while the intake valve is closed).....you run very wet ports on two valves. The slow creep up of idle is due to the scavenging of excessive fuel in the ports. Rev it up hard a couple of times.....and it usually goes back to normal idle for a while.

Also....another check.....that is a common problem.....is that when the idle creeps up again after warm up.....reach over and push the throttle, closed hard with your thumb. If that changes the idle....install a stiffer spring. Also check the o ring between the TB and plenum. Also if you switched to the 2.0 bus TB....highly recommended mod......it has a circular positive return spring that really helps this problem. The problem is a combination of the TB heating up and the accel cable getting tighter.

If you get a bus 2.0 TB....borrow or buy a cheap 2" tailpipe expander from harbor freight and cleanly widen the intake on the plenum to match the 5mm bugger TB....and dont forget to replace the shaft seal on the bottom of this TB.
Ray
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bradself
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't been able to find the shaft seals yet. I doubled up the plenum seals, the 1.7 rtv'd to the 2.0, that rtv'd to the TB then all of the rtv'd to the plenum.

I use the old 1.7 TB return spring as well, from one if the arms on the vertical spring cluster headed straight across towards the air cleaner side; had to experiment with the tension. Will make a decent bracket for the upright tin/firewall--helps a bit with the tight accelerator cable problem.

Your explanation of idle creep makes perfect sense, esp. in stop and go traffic.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bradself wrote:
I haven't been able to find the shaft seals yet. I doubled up the plenum seals, the 1.7 rtv'd to the 2.0, that rtv'd to the TB then all of the rtv'd to the plenum.

I use the old 1.7 TB return spring as well, from one if the arms on the vertical spring cluster headed straight across towards the air cleaner side; had to experiment with the tension. Will make a decent bracket for the upright tin/firewall--helps a bit with the tight accelerator cable problem.

Your explanation of idle creep makes perfect sense, esp. in stop and go traffic.


I use the 2.0 TB seals on the 1.7 TB. RTV them to the TB first. Let sit overnight. This way it does not, squirm and push out rtv. Then put just a film of it on the inside....tighten it down about 3/4 of the way. Let sit overnight and tighten all the way. You may still have leakage. The TB seal is difficult.
On the 2.0 TB shaft seal you, can use a clutch pushrod seal from a rabbit. Its correct id small od glue it in. Ray
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also have the square LJet air filter housing as a spare here, it doesn't look like it will be to hard to adapt it to the DJet intake snorkel. This way I can get the K&N flat filter in and increase huge potèntial for air flow, along with the 2.0L TB. I honestly don't know which stock muffler I have now but I've heard the Ernst is the best of the stock variety. I also have a Thunderbird tho I got it long ago with the intention of using it for the AFR guage--it's hella noisy.

All these small moves are really adding up to good running and improved drivability. Once I deal with that dodgy intake rocker on #1 and get the injection harness redone the too of the motor will be complete and I cam move on to the MPS. I'll have to post some pics of the beast soon.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here 'tis, on a moist Xmas eve. Painted at least once, drivers door is yellow under that Marathon blue, front strut inserts are shot for sure, quite bouncy. 393k miles, mine is the 4th motor, rebuild of a replacement engine from PO, EB004644. Interior is just hammered, but the passenger seat is still quite nice so I'm not worried.

I like it!

Happy Xmas all, enjoy the day! --Brad
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice car! Mine was originally Marathon, blue as well and will be again. Its a, nice color on this carw shape.
Have merry Christmas!
Ray
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bradself
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

About 40 miles city, 80 miles unobstructed highway @ 60-65 mph (according to GPS) and I got 15 mpg. With bypassed cold start injector,( suspected a leak). Quizzed. Unless the MPS is that out of whack.

Once the harness is done I think I need to get the spare trans rebuilt, as quickly as possible. I'll check the wheel bearing adjustments, but what else could be tearing down the MPG? Torque convertor? There are 165s on the car, so perhaps the mushy tall sidewall is contributing to this too. Found a set of chrome 15/5.5 4X130 for the price of one new wheel, so fresh short meats could be on the horizon too.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes....its very very common that the MPS is that out of whack. You also have a slightly different than stock cam correct? That will also change the response of the MPS, requiring a readjustment.

You are doing it right though.....patiently driving and testing to make sure all is correct before adjusting the MPS.

I have chrome type stock 5.5" x 15" , 4 × 130 wheels on my car.

I ran with 205-60/15s for ages. They are very close to stock diameter....so the speedo r3ads correctly....but much reduced sidewall and wider tread.

This wheel and tire combination is a major handling upgrade. I ran one set of 205/55-15s....and the handling was slightly better but not enough to offset the extra wear and tear to the suspension it caused before I upgraded to the bronze idler bushkng and delrin control arm bushings. I should probably try them again once I put everything together.

My chrome rims were Eagle brand. They are not as good as some that may be out there now. They were only chrome on the outer lip. The chrome started rusting after 5 years. Also they were a little soft. I know Dallas streets sucked but I had to replace one and have another straightened in a three year period.
But...they run well and at about $60 a wheel....and they actually look good and fit the stock hubcap.

There are some listings now for these same basic wheels that list them as available full chrome or unchromed/painted. I will probably replace mine with painted and have them painted black.

Im also picky about my tires. Having the right tire in the 5.5" with 60 profile is a MAJOR handling upgrade.

Up until about 2002...continental sold a conti-contact all season radial with deep aggressive tread a traction and temp rating of AA....and a treadwear of B....which was good because these tires were so grippy that you could almost leave your fingernail marks in them....just awesome. I didnt mind replacing them every 40k miles.....at $70 a tire. ..because they stick like glue. They dont make that tire anymore but there are some as good or better.

But....im having a hard time finding quality tires in this size in 15" now.

BUT......last year I bought a hybrid snow tire for my golf. Its designed to run and handle like a dry pavement/wet weather tire but is a high speed assymetrical snow tire.

Its stunning! These tires handle better on dry pavement by far....than my brand new factory conti-pro touring tires...and better by far than my Michellins did on my Jetta. I pu them on at first snow and take them off in late spring. Awesome 85 mph cruise and handling.....no discernable effect on gas mileage.....superb on ice and snow.

Just an awesome, awesome, awesome tire....with a Wild tread pattern that really works.....and you can get them at Pep boys and Sears in 205/ 60-15(the tire rack does not list them in our size but you may be able to order them)......for about $80 each.

And....its odd and cool.....the visible tread edge pattern is almost a dead knock off of the original 1970s Michelein XZX tires that were common on these cars back when they were new.

They are Continental extreme winter contact. Look them up on line and you will see whats unique with the tread pattern. These are listed right up there with the Bridgestone blizzak as the two best high speed winter tires made.

I am almost certain I will be buying a set for my 412. Just a perfect year round tire with huge grip.....and we need all the improvements we can get to drive these cars safely at modern highway speeds.
Ray
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bradself
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, 60s, I was shopping 205/50-15. I can run a summer tire, I never go to the snow. And I don't see the Conti Pro-Contacts, no Contis at all actually, at TireRack. Yokohama AVids, Pirelli P4s. But there's nice BFGoodrich gForce summer tires in 205/50-15.

The wheels I found are Mangels.

The WebCam stock DJet grind cam, 33/39s, stock exhaust, stock stock stock stock, except 1.8L.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bradself wrote:
Oh, 60s, I was shopping 205/50-15. I can run a summer tire, I never go to the snow. And I don't see the Conti Pro-Contacts, no Contis at all actually, at TireRack. Yokohama AVids, Pirelli P4s. But there's nice BFGoodrich gForce summer tires in 205/50-15.

The WebCam stock DJet grind cam, 33/39s, stock exhaust, stock stock stock stock, except 1.8L.


Ok...then you have web 73 right?

As I noted...Conti sport contact are obsolete.
The winter tire I am running is the Continental extreme winter contact (thats the name you need to look under).

I bought them at the tire rack....but they dont stock them in our size. 205-50-15s....I had a pair of for a short period. They WILL destroy your ball joints. Not enough flex in the sidewalls and the springs in the ball joints are too weak to absorb that punishment.

205-55s are as low as you can go until we find a better ball joint solution.

The problem you are going to have is finding a quality "summer" tire for the size you need.

This is why I recommend the conti winter tire. It handles better than virtually any mixed season dry pavement tire I have ever seen (read the reviews on it....no lie).....snd it handled better by far than any dedicated summer tire I have ever had on my 412. Very stiff tread pelattern with soft rubber compound.
Its worth looking at.
Ray
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bradself
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope, not 73, this:

http://webcamshafts.com/mobile/automobile/porsche/install_data/tc_001691_002437.html
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a crazy tread pattern:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ExtremeWinterContact

Only 205/65-15, kinda tall

195/60-15, 24.2" high 3/8" narrower than the 205.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
205-50-15s....I had a pair of for a short period. They WILL destroy your ball joints. Not enough flex in the sidewalls and the springs in the ball joints are too weak to absorb that punishment.

205-55s are as low as you can go until we find a better ball joint solution.

Ray


So Ray, I've been scouring STF for brake stuff, and of course came across Walter's 944 rear disc conversion, and Bill K. upgrade thread, tho all his pictures are gone (is Bill gone?) and Wally had 17" BBS 7.0 wheels and I recall Bill had 17" Cayenne 7.5s. Walter said he was running 205/50s on the front, and from the pics they are very low profile tires. So I guess he was at the time risking broken ball joints. Hrmmm, so 17" wheels seem out if a person wants healthy ball joints. Stock Cayenne wheels are cheap, too bad.

Maybe 16" porsche cup wheels could live on top of those 944 discs and calipers, 205/55-16...
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bradself wrote:
That is a crazy tread pattern:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ExtremeWinterContact

Only 205/65-15, kinda tall

195/60-15, 24.2" high 3/8" narrower than the 205.


No...not tall. The stock tire was 185/75. The sidewall versus the quite a bit wider tread width makes for an excellently low sidewall. Add to that...the 1" wider rim makes for a better spread of the tire.

On the 185...the sidewall is 75% of the treadwidth. On the 205...its 60% of treadwidth.

A much lower ratio. Ill see if I can, find a picture in the am. Ray
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bradself wrote:
raygreenwood wrote:
205-50-15s....I had a pair of for a short period. They WILL destroy your ball joints. Not enough flex in the sidewalls and the springs in the ball joints are too weak to absorb that punishment.

205-55s are as low as you can go until we find a better ball joint solution.

Ray


So Ray, I've been scouring STF for brake stuff, and of course came across Walter's 944 rear disc conversion, and Bill K. upgrade thread, tho all his pictures are gone (is Bill gone?) and Wally had 17" BBS 7.0 wheels and I recall Bill had 17" Cayenne 7.5s. Walter said he was running 205/50s on the front, and from the pics they are very low profile tires. So I guess he was at the time risking broken ball joints. Hrmmm, so 17" wheels seem out if a person wants healthy ball joints. Stock Cayenne wheels are cheap, too bad.


Maybe 16" porsche cup wheels could live on top of those 944 discs and calipers, 205/55-16...


Hard to say if he had problems or not. He sold the car 6 months later (Wally). I dont know about Bill, K's mod lifespan.

I do know this.....I still have 4 NOS ball joints in stock. At one point I had 10. Two are on the far. Four died very short deaths.

All four were installed after I had made the Audi strut mod....which is actually very smooth. No slamming....but does remove some of the give of the compression stroke. When the first pair that died were installed. ....I installed the first pair of 50's on the front end. I liked the rake it created only because it increases the static castor and aids with crosswind a bit.

The 50s made the ride noticably harsher over quick frequncy ripples, expansion joints in the highway and sharp concrete edges of any type. The furst of those two joints died 3 minths later. The passenger side joint died about a month after that. The springs were shattered on both.

Switched to 55's and I lost another joint about 6 months later. I replaced them both at the same time and went back to 60's.
Put another 50k plus miles on them so far with no issues. With the new castor adjustment I have welded in ....plus, better radius arm bushings and soid control arm bushings....I am, sure I could make the 55's work now......but its just not worth it. The benefit is negligable comlared to the benefits of evrything else.

I would wager that living in Texas and covering five states with my 412 as my daily and only driver that I covered more miles in 412s than Wally and Bill combined. About 1000 to 1500 miles per week. About 65-70k a year. Some years more.

The 55's had a very slight handling edge. Other than castor change...the 50s exhibited no benefit on the car once the stiffer shocks and bushings were in and the front end lowered to level or slightly below.

The sidewall flex is part of the spring system. You lose too much of that flex and hard compression shock transfers it upward.....but, since you have already tightened the main strut coil with the Audi mod...and now have more compression damping on the cartridge.....the weakest point budges first.

On large bumps. ...or even small and medium bumps hit with high energy....like highway speed.....it transfers this load to the ball joint and over, compresses its spring. It also beats up the lower swaged lip of the joint. Over time. ...that spring sill break.

I would not go below 55's.
Ray
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bradself wrote:
raygreenwood wrote:
205-50-15s....I had a pair of for a short period. They WILL destroy your ball joints. Not enough flex in the sidewalls and the springs in the ball joints are too weak to absorb that punishment.

205-55s are as low as you can go until we find a better ball joint solution.

Ray


So Ray, I've been scouring STF for brake stuff, and of course came across Walter's 944 rear disc conversion, and Bill K. upgrade thread, tho all his pictures are gone (is Bill gone?) and Wally had 17" BBS 7.0 wheels and I recall Bill had 17" Cayenne 7.5s. Walter said he was running 205/50s on the front, and from the pics they are very low profile tires. So I guess he was at the time risking broken ball joints. Hrmmm, so 17" wheels seem out if a person wants healthy ball joints. Stock Cayenne wheels are cheap, too bad.

Maybe 16" porsche cup wheels could live on top of those 944 discs and calipers, 205/55-16...


Not sure. Also bearing in mind the Cayenne wheels are lighter. Any mass you can remove would lessen the enertia from bumps on the ball joints.

I have been looking around at 16" wheels also simply because there are more tires available.

But to answer the question....yes...I believe they are risking losing ball joints. I have dissected enough dead type 4 joints and ball joints of many other cars to know that the springs in the type 4 joints are wimpy.

One thing that I know greatly imrpoves lifespan on the ball joint though....is extra castor. Just a couple more degrees changes the joint angle and makes the shock less dead on direct to the spring. One of those two had castor adjustment installed...welded just like I did mine in the spring. Cant remember who did it first.

If I can source a real, ball, joint soon and layout an adapter....it would make it a moot point.

The big issue is that the hall joint was designed around very soft stock shocks and very progressive springs.

The alternate way to kill a type 4 balljoint is to drive around on stock struts that are shot. It rebounds so hard that it beats up the outer lip. Or on bad streets you can shatter the springcwhen the strut bottoms out and essentially becomes a solid and transfers load to the ball joint.
I had a ball come nearly all the way out of the socket on my first 411 in high school.
Ray
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bradself wrote:
Nope, not 73, this:

http://webcamshafts.com/mobile/automobile/porsche/install_data/tc_001691_002437.html


Thats interesting. Web....and a few other people list this as the 2.0 cam. It lists valve timing in your link that I find in none of my 914 texts...which I will admit are not exhaustive. Most probably the Euro 110, hp cam.

It has less lift and duration than the web 73.....but it should be able to be tuned around because the lobe center of 108 is still within range to make a good vacuum signature.
Yep....you need an MPS adjustment. You have a 2.0 cam with 1.7l displacement and heads. Breatjjng will be different but adjustable. Ray
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
bradself wrote:
That is a crazy tread pattern:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ExtremeWinterContact

Only 205/65-15, kinda tall

195/60-15, 24.2" high 3/8" narrower than the 205.


No...not tall. The stock tire was 185/75. The sidewall versus the quite a bit wider tread width makes for an excellently low sidewall. Add to that...the 1" wider rim makes for a better spread of the tire.

On the 185...the sidewall is 75% of the treadwidth. On the 205...its 60% of treadwidth.

A much lower ratio. Ill see if I can, find a picture in the am. Ray


A larger diameter, I meant. Original's 25.93, at 185/75-15, 205/60-15 will have an optimistic speedo by 4.7 or so mph. These winter Contis are at TireBuyer in 205/60 for $73, Sears same profile for $109, and at TireRack in 195/60 for $69.

Imma PM you and ask for strut insert stub drawings, castor weld in details and such Ray, fyi. I have most of the other advice from STF, control arm bushing, stacking rubber sheets for radius arm bushings and so forth. Will try Bill K, and Walter over at STF too, as it goes!


Last edited by bradself on Tue Dec 30, 2014 1:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
bradself wrote:
Nope, not 73, this:

http://webcamshafts.com/mobile/automobile/porsche/install_data/tc_001691_002437.html


Thats interesting. Web....and a few other people list this as the 2.0 cam. It lists valve timing in your link that I find in none of my 914 texts...which I will admit are not exhaustive. Most probably the Euro 110, hp cam.

It has less lift and duration than the web 73.....but it should be able to be tuned around because the lobe center of 108 is still within range to make a good vacuum signature.
Yep....you need an MPS adjustment. You have a 2.0 cam with 1.7l displacement and heads. Breatjjng will be different but adjustable. Ray


I will take your word for it! I was conservative with the engine rebuild and didn't want to stray to far into the unknown, done in 2008 before I had jumped into the fray here and STF. The engine is stock 1.8L displacement with stock !.7L valve sizes and this grind, claimed 8.5:1. This cam went in on the 3rd (!!!) time the case was split, compression at that time after 6K miles was 100-110 except in 1 which was 85. I had lost all trust in the builder but Bureau of Automotive Repair was behind me at that point so they made some good. He had revealed he had used a reground cam and reground lifters the first time through, couldn't identify the grind so I got this and new lifters, and he then did whatever he did. That was 3K miles ago, though nearly 5 years ago.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, back to the Ranger fuel pump plumbing (if that was discussed here, erm.)

The return loop is plumbed in after the pressure regulator and before the filter, after the filter, or before the dampner?

Before filter pictured:

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