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Who.Me? Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2014 Posts: 2211 Location: UK (South)
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 5:41 am Post subject: Options for cleaning and preserving underbody without paint? |
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Hi
I have a '56 Single Cab that came from California but is now in the UK, so it's going to get wet more often than it has in the past.
The underbody and frame looks like this at the moment...
It has some light surface rust and still has traces of the original grey underbody paint.
I'd like to keep the rust in check and preserve the remaining OG grey paint, so want to avoid hitting it with a wire wheel.
I think I need a phosphoric acid product, followed by a clear preserving wax, but is that the right way to go in this case?
If acid is the way to go, do I just need to power-wash and degrease the underside before spraying with the acid? There's a fair bit of bondo dust stuck to the surfaces that I need to clean off.
Would I need to neutralise the acid, or just rinse after its done its job?
Can anyone recommend a rust converter/stabiliser product that will work on the underside without just dripping off before it's done its job.
Thanks
Andy |
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beetlenut Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2009 Posts: 2983 Location: RI
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 7:10 am Post subject: |
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If you power wash it and let it dry, it will probably flash rust a little bit more. Then if you use a product that has phosphoric acid in it like Ospho, it will convert that rust to iron phosphate. BUT, when any of those converter products that have phosphoric acid in them convert the iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate, they turn it black. _________________ scrapyards are for quitters
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Wetstuff wrote: |
... I spend more time shaking it than directing it?! I get a pretty decent blast for 8sec. then have to shake it again. |
- Words to live by right there!
My 74 Super rebuild thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6507104#6507104 |
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theKbStockpiler Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2012 Posts: 2316 Location: Rust Belt
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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I Think your under side is a perfect candidate for sand blasting but I don't think your into a big project at this point. I have considered if the work of using plastic drop cloths to seal the whole car from the work area is feasible or not with my own projects. I'm going to try it sometime because intuitively I believe it is worth it. I'll stock up on a few rolls of tape. I don't think Power Washing is going to make a hill of beans difference or add more than 1/10,000th more rust to the area. For a temp fix Rusty Metal Primer has worked okay for me on moderately rusted areas that did not see a lot of rain and absolutely no salt. _________________ My beetle is not competing with your beetle. I have the yellow beetle in my town. There is a red one, a green one ......
Use all safety devices including a mask. |
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Who.Me? Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2014 Posts: 2211 Location: UK (South)
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 5:40 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the feedback.
I thought you could wash the black gunk off with phosphoric to leave clean metal, so long as you don't leave it too long?
Stockpiler - I'm trying to keep the underside as original as possible, so want to avoid blasting/stripping where possible.
Upper body is another issue though. I'm told it was given a cosmetic do-over but that it wasn't stripped back to bare metal. Unfortunately the cosmetic job included a skim of bondo, so I doubt I'd get that back to the OG paint. |
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beetlenut Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2009 Posts: 2983 Location: RI
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 6:00 am Post subject: |
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Who.Me? wrote: |
Thanks for the feedback.
I thought you could wash the black gunk off with phosphoric to leave clean metal, so long as you don't leave it too long?
Stockpiler - I'm trying to keep the underside as original as possible, so want to avoid blasting/stripping where possible.
Upper body is another issue though. I'm told it was given a cosmetic do-over but that it wasn't stripped back to bare metal. Unfortunately the cosmetic job included a skim of bondo, so I doubt I'd get that back to the OG paint. |
If you have clean bare metal, the phosphoric acid will preserve/pickle/seal it for a while, and leave it looking like bare metal. It turns black when you put it over rust. So if you don't remove the rust, you get that black coating. What's going on at the atomic level is that the phosphoric acid is adding an electron to the unstable iron oxide, and converting it to a more stable iron phosphate. It's actually a very good primer at the atomic level. _________________ scrapyards are for quitters
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Wetstuff wrote: |
... I spend more time shaking it than directing it?! I get a pretty decent blast for 8sec. then have to shake it again. |
- Words to live by right there!
My 74 Super rebuild thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6507104#6507104 |
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far rider Samba Member
Joined: August 30, 2005 Posts: 773 Location: Rutland, VT
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 6:07 am Post subject: |
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Probably not what you're looking for but have you considered oil undercoating?
I'm in Vermont where the roads are generously salted in winter. Used motor oil is used to undercoat cars. It is sprayed on liberally and holes are drilled in closed cavities, then capped, where rust is sitting. Messy? Very. Effective 100%. You could use new oil instead of used. Obviously not a "show stopper" but it would preserve the OG paint and your underside.
It would probably be easiest to apply. Anyway, just an idea. _________________ 67 zenith blue sunroof
Contentment; when what you have is what you want. |
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eyetzr Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013 Posts: 1425 Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 11:07 am Post subject: |
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Some places have banned oil spraying, I was thinking wax. I am trying to find the info that was passed to me on a waxy type coating to put on bare metal for storage. I cannot find the info. I am sure if you can find it in the UK. _________________ I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done" |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22431 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 11:20 am Post subject: |
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eyetzr wrote: |
Some places have banned oil spraying, I was thinking wax. I am trying to find the info that was passed to me on a waxy type coating to put on bare metal for storage. I cannot find the info. I am sure if you can find it in the UK. |
You mean Waxoyl ? That stuff is good, but sticky as hell, and is a real mess when you have to work around it. It should also be power washed off at the end of the season to get any trapped salt and dirt off/out of it. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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eyetzr Samba Member
Joined: October 09, 2013 Posts: 1425 Location: Toronto, Ontario. Canada
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 11:45 am Post subject: |
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Thats the stuff. Yeah messy stuff, but does work well. We wiped off the excess & it kept the rust away. There are some other products the rat rod guys use as well. Penetrol, Gibbs, both oil products but for bare metal protection _________________ I think he meant "rare", as in "not well-done" |
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Who.Me? Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2014 Posts: 2211 Location: UK (South)
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 1:58 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks again.
Beetlenut - understood. I'd seen pictures of clean steel after phosphoric cleaning and thought rusted steel would clean back to bare steel.
Having done some more reading around, I think I'm going to try a citric acid solution on a small area as I don't think it leaves a coating (although it may need neutralising?). Apparently mixing it with wallpaper paste makes an effective gel to cling to vertical and upside down surfaces.
I'm not trying to get back to uniform bright steel ready for priming, so it doesn't matter to me if it's not as effective as phosphoric acid.
It's also easy to get hold of in powdered form and cheap, so no loss if it's no good.
In terms of coatings, we've a few wax and wax + rust suppressor options over here from Waxoyl, Dinitrol and others, so I'll give one of those a go. |
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c21darrel Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009 Posts: 8211 Location: San Dimas
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