bug dies; hard to start

low_67 · Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 8:42 pm Post subject: bug dies; hard to start

'67, 1600, duels, 12v. Seems to do this more when it's above 80 degrees: after driving for about 30 to 40 mins, the generator light will start to flicker when I come to a stop at a light. I'll have to give it gas to get it to stop choking and the light will stop flickering while it's getting the gas. But if I let off the gas it'll do it again. Like its fuel starved. Once I've made it to my destination, it may take an hour of resting (cooling) to restart. And it will be hard to start. Like its fuel starved, not the starter. Battery, generator, carbs, vapor lock, tank venting? What can I do to test what the problem could be? Maybe someone has had the same issue and can point me in the right direction.

low_67 · Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 8:54 pm Post subject:

Sounds to me like a fuel problem right?

thomas. · Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 9:47 pm Post subject:

It's never happened to me so I don't have experience with it. I've read on here lots of times the fuel in the pump may be getting too hot and vaporizing.Supposedly if you pour cold liquid over the fuel pump or a cool wet rag when it happens and it starts that was the problem. If you have a duel port engine without proper deck lid venting over-heats the engine and along with it the fuel pump.

low_67 · Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 5:39 pm Post subject:

Are there relocation options for the fuel pump or insulation techniques? Maybe I just need a better fuel pump. I'll try the cool water/rag trick to see if it's the fuel pump vaporizing the fuel. Thanks.

slalombuggy · Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 7:03 pm Post subject:

Are your valves propperly adjusted? IF they are tight they will give you the problems you are having.

brad

low_67 · Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:34 pm Post subject:

Valves are properly adjusted. Somehow, somewhere fuel is being denied and choking out my engine, therefore causing the generator light to flicker before it wants to die and after killing the engine, it not wanting to turnover until rested. I'm thinking fueling issue

slalombuggy · Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 6:08 am Post subject:

Plugged fuel line or plugged filter?

brad

Cusser · Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 6:24 am Post subject:

grandpa pete · Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 8:33 am Post subject:

low_67 · Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 5:07 pm Post subject:

If something were "plugged up" why does it only happen when the car is driven for a while and the engine is hot? I would think if there was an obstruction in the lines, filter, tank, it would be a constant issue or at least not limited to a heat factor. This is not an issue that happened once but happens every time under the specified conditions.

Got a picture or part number on that electric fuel pump? I'm thinking that's where the issue lies.

Eric&Barb · Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2014 6:23 pm Post subject:

Have you made sure the gen/oil lights are connected up correctly?

Ground out the oil pressure sender wire back in the engine compartment. Then start engine and see which stays on.
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Abscate · Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 8:56 am Post subject:

The generator light flickering is just a symptom of your engine running at low revs, as it slowly stalls. It is very rarely a fuel delivery problem that causes this, it is more likely a misadjusted or dirty carb, or an intake manifold leak.

When fuel stops getting to an engine, it stops.

When was the last time the carb was cleaned and/or rebuilt?

From your description, the engine still 'turns over' when hot, it just doesn't fire. If the engine won't spin the same when hot, stop driving it immediately - thats engine damage!
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tb03830 · Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 10:28 am Post subject:

It might also be a fuel air mixture issue. I know it is not a widely thought of problem but if there is a leak in the manifold it will also do that after warming up. It may be a small leak so you get farther and when the engine cools down the air mixture comes more in line with what will run better. Check the manifold and the carb for a vacuum point that may be cracked or open. I found mine on the back side of the manifold and it was open and did the same thing after warming up. Use an unlit propane torch on a idling engine to find the leak. If propane gets in the manifold the engine will idle faster.
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1964 Convertible Bug - 1600cc SP engine with a stock H30/31 Carb and SVDA Distributor - Swing Arm Highway Flyer Tranny, Gene Berg's Temperature Dipstick, 2.5" drop spindles, 2" narrowed adjustable front end. Chromed OEM fan tower.

slalombuggy · Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 9:21 pm Post subject:

Just an FYI. An engine that won't turn over when hot can also be a bad starter. When they get hot they can sieze on their bushings or there can be an open in the windings that only causes a problem when hot. Or if the starter is weak and the bushing is worn out it can also get to the point it won't turn over. It doesn't always indicate a motor that is siezing up.

brad

low_67 · Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 4:58 am Post subject:

I've been driving, with no problem, with outside temperatures of around 40 to 50 degrees. Engine warm and car drives great! But if it's 70 or above I can expect issues with it.

Correct me if I'm wrong but do alternators require the fuel pump that is angled about 15 degrees? I'm wondering if I have the wrong type fuel pump. I believe I have a generator and I suspect I have a alternator type fuel pump.

low_67 · Posted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 5:03 am Post subject:

Jody '71 · Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 4:08 am Post subject:

Post a couple pictures of your engine. There are a variety of conditions that can create the symptoms you describe. Since you say you have "duels," do mean that you have a dual carb set-up? What kind are they?
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2011 Hyundai Elantra Touring

low_67 · Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:01 pm Post subject:

low_67 · Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:16 pm Post subject:

Happened again today. 60 degrees out. Drive it from work to the grocery store, about a 45 ride, no problem. Leave the store, it starts up and dies about 15 seconds later. Let it sit for 20 mins and then I can get it started again.

What I did in that 20 mins was pull off the fuel line feed from the pump. No gas was coming out. Then I plugged it back into the pump and took off the line that distributes fuel out of the pump to the carbs and cranked it. No fuel out. Is this normal, I don't know...

low_67 · Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 6:51 pm Post subject:

Could my carbs be getting flooded when I turn the car off? How would I check this?


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