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Motor60
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2014
Posts: 625
Location: SoCal
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 Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:47 pm Post subject: A Trustworthy Build |
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This is a 2 part question:
Looking for recommendations of a good motor builder on SoCal. Not someone who will just throw parts in a case and try to sell it for $800. Anybody with good reputation in Orange County??
Second, this motor is for a convertible. So with that in mind, I was looking for a playful motor in the 120 HP range, or to keep up with a mustang. A daily driver. BUT I do understand the heat issues that could come up with the top down cuz it blocks the air vents. It would be used with a stock trans and pump gas. What size should I be looking for? |
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kielbasa
Samba Member
Joined: November 28, 2007
Posts: 1443
Location: Garbage Grove, CA
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| Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2014 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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John at dubbers toybox in stanton. He advertises here on the samba. Parts and restoration aswell as engine building.
714 900 dubs
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Kielbasa Industries |
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vugbug68
Samba Member
Joined: June 25, 2006
Posts: 2696
Location: sacramento
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| Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 12:01 am Post subject: |
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depends on which mustang you want to keep up with
I'd do a 2007cc (78 stroke x 90.5 bore) wont be hard to get 125hp
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66 Corvair - Weekend Cruiser
90 4 Runner - Muddin |
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bugguy1967
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2008
Posts: 4341
Location: Los Angeles, CA 90016
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| Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 12:05 am Post subject: |
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120 HP is a number that could easily be obtained by a 5500-6000 RPM short stroke, big piston'd engine, or a 5000-5500 RPM 2 liter. The low-revving 2 liter would most likely last longer, run quieter, and run cooler throughout the RPM range. For a convertible, I'd lean toward a 2110 or 2180 thickwall.
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"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine" |
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AlteWagen
Troll
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posts: 8501
Location: PNW
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Motor60
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2014
Posts: 625
Location: SoCal
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:35 am Post subject: |
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My motor is a 1776 now. Besides a crank, what would I have to do to make it a 2007 or 2110? This motor is my commuter. Mostly fwy miles. As I only work 3 days a week. And I have dual 40 webers with 40x35 heads. I'm sure I'd have to upgrade cam. And I like the sound of straight cut gears.
I'm very meticulous when it comes to vehicle maintenance. I understand more horsepower means more maintenance. I want reliable horsepower. What is the biggest motor I can go using my dual 40s, my heads? Unless I really need to go 44s…
Parts needed? Machining required? What cam?
Any machine shops in my area? I've used Rimco before for balancing.
Also still looking for more recommended shops for my build? |
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dsrtfox
Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2009
Posts: 443
Location: Phoenix
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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| Gary and Clyde Berg are in Orange, right next door to each other... |
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GTV
Samba Member
Joined: March 27, 2004
Posts: 2084
Location: Si'ahl
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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Just upgrading to a 74mm crank with your existing 90.5 pistons will give you 1904cc and be capable of the 120hp you're after. No extra machining needed. You can also use your Weber's and your 40x35 heads (if the port work is up to par). Use the short 5.325" rods and your engine will only be a few .010"'s wider than it is now. Engle 120 (or similar), around 9:1.
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Motor60
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2014
Posts: 625
Location: SoCal
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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I called gene berg in orange and they told me they were only a machine shop now…
What about Lowbugget? Or Proformance? Both in Orange and next door to each other?
Anybody know if Heads Up performance builds motors? |
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Rohrheim
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2010
Posts: 64
Location: NJ
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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Stay away from LowBugget. They screwed me.
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63 Dune buggy
MKIV R32 |
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vwracerdave
Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2004
Posts: 15302
Location: Deep in the 405
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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Clyde Berg and Gary Berg are independent of Gene Berg Ent. and have their own shops.
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2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63
Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos |
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Busstom
Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2014
Posts: 3838
Location: San Jose, CA
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| Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 8:40 pm Post subject: Re: A Trustworthy Build |
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| Motor60 wrote: |
Anybody with good reputation in Orange County??
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You're in the capital of the VW scene, air-cooled central! (You prolly know that already.)
There are a million air-cooled enthusiasts in your neck of the woods. There might be some way you could befriend someone from the forum to help you out. If you just hand someone money and parts (or no parts), you have no idea how much love they may or may not put into that motor. But if you could get someone to help you out, and have you participate, then you'll know what went into your motor.
Cuz $800 is pretty cheap for the whole deal, I think there's more to the picture than that. |
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Motor60
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2014
Posts: 625
Location: SoCal
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:16 am Post subject: Re: A Trustworthy Build |
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| Busstom wrote: |
| Motor60 wrote: |
Anybody with good reputation in Orange County??
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You're in the capital of the VW scene, air-cooled central! (You prolly know that already.)
There are a million air-cooled enthusiasts in your neck of the woods. There might be some way you could befriend someone from the forum to help you out. If you just hand someone money and parts (or no parts), you have no idea how much love they may or may not put into that motor. But if you could get someone to help you out, and have you participate, then you'll know what went into your motor.
Cuz $800 is pretty cheap for the whole deal, I think there's more to the picture than that. |
This is what I'm looking for. I just need to be pointed in right direction to a good shop. And I'll go from there. And I would totally be involved in building my motor. Wish I could build my own tho. I would do it myself if I had the know how |
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subhuman
Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2008
Posts: 538
Location: north carolina
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:52 am Post subject: |
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X's 2!!
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63 restomod build
http://s431.photobucket.com/albums/qq37/johnnysubhuman/?albumview=slideshow
you can have everything you want, just don't want so much!
"the wrong way always seems the more reasonable."
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1963 type1
2002 Subaru Wrx
never argue with an idiot, they will only drag you down to their level and beat you with experience!
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GTV
Samba Member
Joined: March 27, 2004
Posts: 2084
Location: Si'ahl
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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| vwracerdave wrote: |
| Clyde Berg and Gary Berg are independent of Gene Berg Ent. and have their own shops. |
Gary posts in the classifieds here, his number is 808-640-6799.
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Motor60
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2014
Posts: 625
Location: SoCal
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 6:01 pm Post subject: |
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So what's the biggest motor I can go and still use weber 40s without choking motor?
And can a 2332 be built reliable for daily driver?
Seems like everything points to the 2110. Maybe I'm just getting power greedy |
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vwracerdave
Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2004
Posts: 15302
Location: Deep in the 405
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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Depends on your definition of reliable. A 2332 can be driven daily but will probably need to be torn down and freshened up around 50,000 miles. IMHO the 2110 is the best daily driver and can last 100,000 miles if built with quality parts.
Dual 40 IDF's can work on 2000cc & small daily driver engines. They can also work on a very mild 2332 with a tiny cam. They can also be way too small for a hot 1776 race engine.
_________________
2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63
Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos |
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Dauz
Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2010
Posts: 1790
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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| Some of the sand-rail joints build some MONSTER T1 aircooled motors with precision and reliability. I've done business with more than a few in SoCal. |
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Motor60
Samba Member
Joined: July 13, 2014
Posts: 625
Location: SoCal
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| Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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| Dauz wrote: |
| Some of the sand-rail joints build some MONSTER T1 aircooled motors with precision and reliability. I've done business with more than a few in SoCal. |
Can you name a few so I can make some calls?
What about that 1904 stroker? I just figured since I have to split the case might as well go bigger. I just wanted to use my 40s so I didn't have to scout for new carbs |
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GTV
Samba Member
Joined: March 27, 2004
Posts: 2084
Location: Si'ahl
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| Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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The 1904 is good because you can use nearly all of your existing parts, very little expense for a very nice gain. If you go for a larger stroke and/or bore, you will gain a lot more power but things tend to snowball out of control very quickly.
If you're only after a reliable 120hp, 1904 is the way to go.
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