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H4 Headlights cause voltage drop?
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ashman, thanks for that great explanation. I believe this is the route i'll be going, new wire direct to the lights thru dedicated relays.

Mr. Duncan - is there a good way to fish the wire from the battery to the front? Through the heater channel? Or under the headliner across the roof? What do you use to do this?

Thanks!

Victor
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I run wires next to the factory harness, and use fishtape, or a thin, yet strong metal wire to push/pull the wire through tight spots.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ashman, I used fine sandpaper to clean the grounds and the fuse terminals on the inside of the car. I still have to do the same to the trunk-side fuse box connections. I'm also going to run a new wire from the alternator to the starter.

If I still get the drop after the cleaning and new alternator wire, i'll cut the last inch of the headlight wires and recrimp them per Aircooled's suggestion. If all of that combined doesn't fix it, THEN i'll go w/the 8gw wire from the battery to a fuse terminal like the one TX-73 pictured, and new wires from there to the lights w/the relay kits Mr. Duncan suggested using.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you confirm where your dash voltmeter is connected?
It could be connected to the black (#15) ignition circuit or it could be on the black/yellow (X) accessories circuit that powers the headlights. Knowing which may make a difference in understanding why the voltage drops.
As described above, if the voltmeter is connected to the X circuit it will be sharing the current flow of the X circuit which also powers the headlights. When you turn the headlights ON your reduce the current/voltage available to power the voltmeter.

Also, I'm not sure I would trust the dash voltmeter over a good multimeter.
Compare the voltmeter readings with your multimeter.

Try this test...
    Test-A : Take a baseline voltage reading from the following points:
    - battery posts
    - #8 fuse (constant 12v+ from battery)
    - #10 12v while ignition ON (X circuit)
    - #12 ignition circuit

    Test-B : Turn the headlights ON (HI beam if possible) and take another set of readings.
    Turn the headlights OFF.

    Test-C : Remove the #8 fuse and confirm which fuse holder is still powered. This is the INPUT side of the fuse box. Replace the fuse and with a short length of heavy gauge wire, jumper between the INPUT side of #8 fuse and the INPUT side of #5 or #6 fuse. This will power both HI beam lights. You have just moved the source of the headlight's power from the X circuit to the battery constant (#30, direct line to the battery). This is upstream from the ignition so does not take current away from ignition powered devices.

    Take another set of voltage readings.

    Test-D : Hook your battery (jumper) cables (you have a set, right?) directly to the battery under the rear seat. You only need to hook up the positive cable. Bring the other end of the battery cable up near the fuse box. Move the #8 end of the jumper wire to the battery cable. Now fuses #5 or #6 (HI beams) are being powered directly from the battery.

    Take another set of voltage readings.

Compare your results. As you move the load of the headlights further away from the X circuit and the #15 ignition circuit you should see the voltage at your voltmeter improve.
If there is little difference when powering the headlights from the #30 circuit (Test-C) and directly from the battery (Test-D) then you DON'T need to run a new wire from the battery, just tap the power to your new relays from the #8 input side of the fuse box.

I hope this is clear? The above tests illustrate the benefits of powering the headlight relays from different points along the electrical system.
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vamram Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dexter, thanks for that detailed test plan. I'll be able to do tests A and B today, but may have to wait on C and D until Dec. 28. I'm getting some holiday travel in beginning later today w/la mia famiglia until then.

I'll post back what I get w/the tests i'm able to do today. In the meantime, Happy Holidays/Christmas/Hanukah/etc to TheSamba!

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ashman, here's what I was able to test before having to stop to pack my bags.

TEST A - IGNITION OFF//IGNITION ON
# 8 - 12.4+-// 11.8
# 10 - 0 // 11.83
# 12 - 0 // 11.82

Battery posts: didn't get to this.

TEST B - LIGHTS ON (Low beams only - the relay switched back to low and wouldn't go to Hi)
IGNITION OFF/IGNITION ON
#8 - 12.4/ 11.2
#10 - 0 / 10.7
#12 - 0 / 10.6

TEST C - Fuse 8 Removed
- 12.2v on the INPUT side - closer to the pedals
- jumpering it w/5 & 6 turns on the lights. Hi beams are #6
- I couldn't test voltage w/the jumper wire on because I don't have ends that can clip on those at the moment.

*ALSO*: You didn't ask me to test Fuse #9, but this one also has 12.2v on the INPUT side w/the ignition off. Should it be reading 0 volts?

I'll have to try the other parts of TEST C and the battery check when I return. And I ran out of time to trace the power wire for the VDO voltage gauge. I can tell you that it and the oil temp and pressure gauges appear to be powered in a daisy chain.

I will be on thesamba while on vacation so i'll check for any observations you or others may have using the partial test results.

Thanks again!

Victor
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you say "ignition on" do you mean, motor is running?

If so:



looks like you have a charging problem.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duncan, ignition on is w the motor off. That's what I thought Ashman meant. Question
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vamram wrote:
TEST A - IGNITION OFF//IGNITION ON
# 8 - 12.4+-// 11.8
# 10 - 0 // 11.83
# 12 - 0 // 11.82

Battery posts: didn't get to this.

This doesn't look so good.
12.4v with everything OFF... weak battery. This could be affecting all the measurements as a weak battery could see even lower voltages as they are loaded. Did you ever have you battery tested? It needs to be charged fully and then load tested.
The good thing is that there is little difference between the battery constant voltage and the ignition voltage when the ignition is ON. This means there is very little voltage loss through the ignition switch when there isn't something draining it.

vamram wrote:
TEST B - LIGHTS ON (Low beams only - the relay switched back to low and wouldn't go to Hi)
IGNITION OFF/IGNITION ON
#8 - 12.4/ 11.2
#10 - 0 / 10.7
#12 - 0 / 10.6

This shows that the headlights are really pulling down the voltage coming out of the ignition. Instead of #8, #10 and #12 being the same as we saw above the post ignition voltage (#10 & #12) is 0.6v lower.
One place you should check is the red wire between the fuse box and the ignition switch. Clean the connections here well and you may be able to increase the IGNITION ON voltages.

vamram wrote:
TEST C - Fuse 8 Removed
- 12.2v on the INPUT side - closer to the pedals
- jumpering it w/5 & 6 turns on the lights. Hi beams are #6
{Left HI beam should be powered by fuse #5; right HI beam from fuse #6. The inputs should be bridged so powering either fuse input powers BOTH inputs.}
- I couldn't test voltage w/the jumper wire on because I don't have ends that can clip on those at the moment.
{You can carefully wedge the ends of the wire between the INPUT end of the fuse and the fuse holder. This should hold it in place long enough for a voltage reading.}

*ALSO*: You didn't ask me to test Fuse #9, but this one also has 12.2v on the INPUT side w/the ignition off. Should it be reading 0 volts?

Just as with fuses #5 & #6... fuses #8 & #9 are bridged on the input side. If one is powered they are BOTH powered. So yes, you should expect 12.2v on fuses #9. You can use either fuse as your battery constant source.

If you could have completed TEST-C, I would estimate this is what you would read in the voltage measurements:
IGNITION OFF/IGNITION ON
#8 - 12.4/ 11.2
#10 - 0 / 11.2
#12 - 0 / 11.2


vamram wrote:
Duncan, ignition on is w the motor off. That's what I thought Ashman meant.

I did mean for you to run the tests with the engine NOT running.
If you find the time, you can re-run with the engine running. The only difference will be the individual voltage reading will be higher. But the voltage losses will still be there as the resistance between points remains.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ashman, thanks for the analysis. I think you're right about the battery. It's two years old. The car was hard to start after it sat for 3 weeks waiting for body work and parts in November. I have a charge and will hook it up when I return.

Also, my older brother is an electrical engineer and agrees w/Aircooled that the original ends of the 42 year old harness are probably corroded, causing high resistance and recommends replacing the ends. He also recommends testing the lights one side at a time by disconnecting the headlights at the lamp, one first then the other.

Thanks!

Victor
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just pointing out that each wire has 2 ends. I know it's obvious in reflection, but don't want to see only half the problem addressed.l
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is an example of why you need to cut away the ends of the wires to reach clean conductors:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Found this neat trick to acid etch the ends of old wires to clean them up. A bit tedious if you have lots of wires to do, but if you really can't afford to cut the length of the wire, then thorough cleaning is an alternative.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-perfectly-clean-wires-in-minutes/
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 8:27 pm    Post subject: trick Reply with quote

That trick is going right in my back pocket. Thanks!
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 12:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ashman - I'd forgotten that trick from my valve radio days - it's back in the memory banks now. Thanks for the post.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello all. Just saw this 4 page post and had to reply. It seems to me that not too many folks really know how to do a proper "voltage drop test". Properly used the DVOM will "do the math" and easily tell you what the voltage drop is. The main advantage to this "voltage drop test" is that it tests the circuit under load, as a treadmill would test a human being's various functions.

Try this. Access the back of both headlights. You have to use a digital DVOM (digital volt meter). Using your DVOM, hook the positive lead to the positive battery terminal and the negative lead to the back of one of your headlight. You will probably need to use a jumper lead to do this. Turn your headlights on and you can measure the "voltage drop" between the voltage source (battery) and the component (headlight). This will be the TOTAL VOLTAGE DROP from the battery to the headlight. You can check both low and high beam circuits individually. You can also check a ground circuit in the same manner. If a problem exists then you can expand the voltage drop test to individual circuits, IE: you can simply use this test across a fuse for the headlight.

PLEASE, go to you tube and type in voltage drop test and watch the show.

I hope this helps, Bill.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I watched a couple of the youtube videos, good stuff for me. So i have several places to check for resistance.

Arrived back home today and had time to change the relay I thought was bad because the headlights wouldn't switch between hi/low beam, but get stuck at one or the other.

Turns out it's not the relay. Even w/the new relay, i can't toggle between hi/lo beams. Currently it's stuck at hi. So I guess in addition to resolving the weak battery and the voltage drop, now I've got a possibly bad turn signal switch. Sad

And tomorrow's forecast is 40s w/80% chance of rain. Sheesh. Mad
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vamram wrote:
Arrived back home today and had time to change the relay I thought was bad because the headlights wouldn't switch between hi/low beam, but get stuck at one or the other.

Turns out it's not the relay. Even w/the new relay, i can't toggle between hi/lo beams. Currently it's stuck at hi.

Can you identify the relay you purchased? Make/model#? Or post the URL for the relay?
There are two common dimmer relays. 4-prong and 5-prong. The 5-prong has a #30 terminal in addition to the #56/#56a/#56b/#S terminals. The #30 terminal is constant battery 12v and allows the dimmer switch to "flash" the high beams even when the headlight switch is OFF. Depending on the make, the power for the headlights may come from the #30 or the #56.

If the headlights are working (turning ON and lighting up) but the relay is not clicking (energizing), then the problem may be with the dimmer switch.
To test that your new dimmer relay is working, run a small gauge jumper wire to the #S terminal of the relay before you insert it into the relay bridge. Be careful that the wires do not any of the other terminals. While the headlights are ON, momentarily touch the jumper wire to ground and the dimmer should swap between hi/low beam. If this works you know the relay is good and the problem is with the dimmer switch wiring in the turn signal assembly.
The other way to test this is to connect your multimeter to the #S jack in the relay bridge and make sure the #S jack is being grounded when you pull on the dimmer switch (turn signal lever).
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Ashman. Is the dimmer switch in the turn signal assembly or is it the switch in the dash that I pull to turn on the lights?

I'll try to rig up a jumper wire test today and report back.

I bought this relay from Pierside parts: http://www.piersideparts.net/111941583.html

Although it looks like the original silver swf relay, it's actually black and a bit heavier. It's 5-prongs.

Thanks,

Victor
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Test B procedure has a problem with Ignition on!

One will get inconsistent readings when turning on the ignition.

Why? If the points are closed you will get about an additional 3-4 amp extra draw during the test, thus less voltage for the reading. Points open, no drain through the coil, points to ground.

For this test I would either make sure the points are closed or open.... OR disconnect the wire (typically green) to the dizzy.

Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim - i use a compufire electronic ignition rather than points. Do you recommend disconnecting both of its leads for test B?
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