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rmcd Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010 Posts: 1348 Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:10 pm Post subject: Wiring corrosion removal techniques |
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I think therefore I am more on.
Along those lines it dawned upon me that a strong liquid acid dip would make quick work of dissolving tarnish and corrosion on wiring spades and connectors.
Is there a mild acid that would be safer, be easily neutralized and effective? Or do use steal your wife's emory board, slip it and hope it fits inside the connectors and gets some of the tarnish while she doesn't notice?
Thoughts? _________________ VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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Merian Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2014 Posts: 5212 Location: Orygun
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 1:19 pm Post subject: |
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yes, a strong vinegar - acetic acid - I buy the acetic acid used for developing film (that was the thing before digital, right?) and dilute it |
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IdahoDoug Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2010 Posts: 10234 Location: N. Idaho
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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I use an aerosol Electrical Contact Cleaner. Any auto store. The pressure action cleans where you simply can't inside connector female pins and spades. Safe and effective. _________________ 1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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Merian Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2014 Posts: 5212 Location: Orygun
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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Doug, I've never found one that cleans as well as acid on those CU-oxide fouled connectors. I do use one after the acid to clean away the acid and leave a protective deposit.
BTW acid may need an overnight bath to work |
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thatvwbusguy Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2007 Posts: 1712 Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 5:39 pm Post subject: |
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I like the DeoxIT brand cleaners for removing minor oxidation and surface corrosion.
Any terminals that can't be cleaned up with a quick spray should probably be investigated further, since the corrosion often tends to travel up the wires under the insulation. _________________ Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion. |
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rmcd Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010 Posts: 1348 Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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buildyourown Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2009 Posts: 1668 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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Ive always used baking soda and water. Not an acid but it works and I don't worry about the residue corroding other things |
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rmcd Samba Member
Joined: October 29, 2010 Posts: 1348 Location: PNW - its a dry rain.
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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buildyourown wrote: |
Ive always used baking soda and water. Not an acid but it works and I don't worry about the residue corroding other things |
How do you apply it? Do you dip the connectors into the water with dissolved baking soda? What ratio do you mix?
Thanks for sharing. _________________ VW LT40 build. Like a Vanagon but 30% larger in every direction and 40% slower even in metric.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=749359&highlight= |
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jstar89crx Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2005 Posts: 156 Location: Bellingham WA
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:18 pm Post subject: |
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Be sure to remove the sheath and check that the corrosion hasn't extend into the wire. On the boats I work on it is not uncommon to find damage from corrosion over 15' to 20' (yes feet) inside the wire. If you are not seeing shiny copper when you strip the sheath then just putting a new end on or cleaning the end will not correct the problem. Keep cutting back the wire until you find clean copper, if you don't or you run out of length than it is time to replace the entire length of wire or cable. The purple or brown or rust colored corroded wire will still conduct but it will have enough added resistance internally to cause issues depending on what it is used for. _________________ 86 Syncro, weekender carat interior, the rest is bone stock for now
SOLD:91 Westy, BEW TDI with VNT17 Turbo, water cooled intercooler, Malone Tune, taller 3rd and 4th. |
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buildyourown Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2009 Posts: 1668 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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rmcd wrote: |
buildyourown wrote: |
Ive always used baking soda and water. Not an acid but it works and I don't worry about the residue corroding other things |
How do you apply it? Do you dip the connectors into the water with dissolved baking soda? What ratio do you mix?
Thanks for sharing. |
Either, but it works best if it's submerged. I just fill a little jelly jar and dunk the ends in. They get all foamy and come out sparkly clean after a few minutes. |
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thatvwbusguy Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2007 Posts: 1712 Location: Newmarket, New Hampshire
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Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 1:33 am Post subject: |
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The DeoxIT D-Series is the product that I use most. It is available in 5% or 100% strength. I don't think the D-Series has any protective properties to speak of. I always use dielectric grease for connections that need to be protected from the elements.
If you do find wires that show lots of corrosion under the insulation, tinned marine wire is the best choice for replacement. Greg's Marine Wire Supply has high quality marine wire made in the USA. They offer great pricing and even better service! https://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/ _________________ Jay Brown
'85 Zetec Westfalia
Newmarket, NH
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion.
If you want to be happy, practice compassion. |
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