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Dauz
Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2010
Posts: 1790
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 Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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Proflohoseandfittings.com
Gary Vick
[email protected]
Facebook - Proflo Performance Hose and Fittings
12403 Pounds Ave Whittier, CA 90604
562-943-5552 |
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77charger
Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2005
Posts: 1492
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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sweet performance products in orange county.Also made in house.
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Bugpack 4 seater rail
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Auto linea alm case,82 dpr crank wedgemated by DK machine
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Eaallred
Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2003
Posts: 5756
Location: West Valley City, Utah
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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My two drag cars are all ebay AN fittings. Mix and match brands to whatever is the cheapest not shipping from outside USA (not gonna wait three weeks to save a dollar).
I've been running them for years, and have had zero issues. No special tools to build, I cut with a cutoff wheel in the angle grinder, use my thumb nail to push the wires into the fitting, twist it on all the way, lube up the other piece, screw it all the way down until it bottoms out (don't just tighten until it's "tight"). Clean the hose out and you're ready to go.
No special wrenches as long as you're careful and use a rag in the vice to hold the fitting. They don't get scratched up very easily.
If people have leak issues with the cheap fittings, i'd blame the assembler, not the part. I've got probably close to fifty of them on the two cars, and zero issues. Everything from 6AN up to 12AN so far.
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Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
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esde
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007
Posts: 5966
Location: central rust belt
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 10:51 pm Post subject: |
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| Eric, my complaint about the cheap ebay fittings should've been more specific, it's the swivel fittings I've had leak. Last time I ordered some trying to save a few bucks, the swivel 45º leaked at the swivel, both of them. I cut the fitting open to see what was up, the pin that stakes the parts seemed like it was set too loose. The swivel on the Jegs part was much tighter |
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7537
Location: Santa Cruz
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:05 pm Post subject: |
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Was looking at the $$ 'pressure testing kit'.
Thinking that a couple extra fittings for my leak-down tester would accomplish the same thing.
Anybody out there testing their work first this way?
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7537
Location: Santa Cruz
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:27 pm Post subject: |
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Still digging through different sites for answers...
I wanted to run 3/8" hard lines through the tunnel.
Was thinking steel, vs. stainless or aluminum.
Stainless is supposedly really hard to flare unless you buy $$ flaring tools.
Aluminum kind of scares me, for some reason.
However, it seems that all of the -AN-to-tube fittings on the Summit site specify they are for aluminum tubing.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200077n/overview/
The Jegs site doesn't specify tubing material for the -AN adaptors for tube.
They both say 50PSI max on the adaptors.
Because I'm planning for supply/return for a FI system, it could conceivably exceed this 50PSI rating??
Is this why people weld the fittings onto the tubing?
Am I being paranoid, or would some aluminum tubing and the adaptors do the trick just fine forever??
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bugguy1967
Samba Member
Joined: January 16, 2008
Posts: 4341
Location: Los Angeles, CA 90016
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:32 pm Post subject: |
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One thing we do for a good seal is to lightly oil the flares and the threads. We use a lot of high quality -AN fittings on our refrigeration systems and have fixed leaks by lubing the leaking area.
Lo cash, is spot on. Make sure to clean out the hoses with alcohol, or some kind of cleaner.
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7537
Location: Santa Cruz
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TinCanFab
Samba Member
Joined: April 04, 2006
Posts: 2743
Location: Waterford, California
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:48 pm Post subject: |
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If you deal with several brands of AN hose and fitting stuff daily like I do, you will notice the made in USA stuff really is a bit nicer quality. The anodizing quality and consistency are usually better. Some Chinese fittings change color with heat and UV exposure. I really like the machining and high flow details in stuff from XRP, Bonaco, Phenix, Fragola, Aeroquip... But these companies and others are all making all kinds of products and re selling them under other brand names. For the average guy, it can be a crapshoot to know what is good by mail order. Sometimes you can save money buy buying quality, the higher end companies offer more specialty options......Example:
You have a Setrab oil cooler you want to hook up to -8 braided lines in a confined area. So you order cheap metric adapters, hose ends and basic braided oil hose. You go to install everything and you realize the stack of fittings are too bulky and the hose doesn't have the bend radius you need and the hose wants to kink...... You could've shopped XRP and got metric o-ring boss hose ends in any angle with one of several hose options that are extremely high flow and flexible. What's the point of AN fittings if it doesn't look like a clean professional job that you are 100% happy with?
Customers don't want to hear "I told you so" when their black fittings turn gold after a year.
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They're never really ever finished 58 rag build...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=658092 |
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TinCanFab
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Joined: April 04, 2006
Posts: 2743
Location: Waterford, California
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madmike
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2005
Posts: 5292
Location: Atlanta,Michigan
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| Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 6:18 am Post subject: |
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I'm lazy,I go to a Plumbing supply/Hydrolic hose store,, Trucking supply house?
have them custom made,, $$,, but worth it 
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"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works" |
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sloboatnova
Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2009
Posts: 989
Location: Broken Arrow, Ok
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| Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 12:18 pm Post subject: |
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I used the summit brand twist-tite fittings. I bought the bench vise pieces to aid with assembly. They were helpful. Below is my list of parts bought for full flow filter and cooler. I have yet to add the cooler.
pump 1 ea summit SUM-220707-B $11.97
1 ea summit SUM-220846B $2.97
case return 1 ea summit SUM-220846B $2.97
3/8" or 1/2"? 1 ea summit SUM-220712-B $13.97
hose 1 ea summit SUM-220786-B $27.97
filter 1 ea summit SUM-220752B $3.97
1 ea summit SUM-220850B $8.97
1 ea summit SUM-220702-B $4.97
thermostat 4 ea summit SUM-220702-B $4.97
4 ea summit SUM-220847B $4.75
cooler 2 ea summit SUM-220851B $12.97
1 ea summit SUM-220702-B $4.97
AN vise pads 1 ea summit 15199 $20.37
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Bobalos
Samba Member
Joined: July 05, 2012
Posts: 198
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| Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 12:55 pm Post subject: |
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IMO the best buy out there now is Red Horse (http://www.redhorseperformance.com/). they are TOP quality & very reasonably priced.
personally Im over the whole Red & Blue thing & all up into the black. I still use Steel braided stuff every now & again, but am really digging the new black tubing. Im not a big fan of the Push Loc stuff, but I know TONS of race cars out there have them now & they dont seem to be a problem.
Joel (or anyone else for that mater) @ Ormes Brothers can take care of you. they stock just about everything you could want & are great on price. Tell Joel that Bobalos sent.
http://www.ormebrothers.com/
FWIW, Ive had hit & miss luck with the "house brand" stuff from Summit/Jegs. both in quality of finish & how smooth the fittings went together.
Ive bought a few fittings over the years. Here is part of my Chevelle project.
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Axitech
Samba Member
Joined: August 31, 2011
Posts: 1265
Location: Bucks County, Pa
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| Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 4:31 pm Post subject: |
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Stainless Steel Swagelok, no special tools required and good to 10,000psi. No leaks, ever!
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jhoefer
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 987
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| Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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| Clatter wrote: |
Still digging through different sites for answers...
I wanted to run 3/8" hard lines through the tunnel.
Was thinking steel, vs. stainless or aluminum.
Stainless is supposedly really hard to flare unless you buy $$ flaring tools.
Aluminum kind of scares me, for some reason.
However, it seems that all of the -AN-to-tube fittings on the Summit site specify they are for aluminum tubing.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200077n/overview/
The Jegs site doesn't specify tubing material for the -AN adaptors for tube.
They both say 50PSI max on the adaptors.
Because I'm planning for supply/return for a FI system, it could conceivably exceed this 50PSI rating??
Is this why people weld the fittings onto the tubing?
Am I being paranoid, or would some aluminum tubing and the adaptors do the trick just fine forever?? |
The AN-to-tube adapters are a compression fitting. The tube isn't locked in to the fitting like a flare fitting so it's easier for the tube to pull out and there are more places for the fitting to leak compared to an AN fitting, hence the low pressure rating. You could use them on the tank-to-pump and regulator-to-tank return line, but I consider it risky to use on the high pressure side. (Though I'm sure some will say they've used them that way.)
If you use steel or stainless line, you'll probably want to use steel JIC fittings instead of aluminum AN fittings.
Most AN hose pressure test kits are nothing but two AN plugs with one drilled and tapped to accept a common hardware store 1/8" NPT schrader valve (aka tank valve). If you've got a tap, it's cheap to make at home. |
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AlteWagen
Troll
Joined: February 23, 2007
Posts: 8501
Location: PNW
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7537
Location: Santa Cruz
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| Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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| Axitech wrote: |
| Stainless Steel Swagelok, no special tools required and good to 10,000psi. No leaks, ever! |
Sounds great.
Got a link?
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7537
Location: Santa Cruz
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| Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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| jhoefer wrote: |
| The tube isn't locked in to the fitting like a flare fitting |
So, why not just flare the end of my steel 3/8" fuel line, and use a flare-to-JIC fitting?
The flare fittings I find just don't seem right...
Maybe they don't include the nut, or something?
Is an "inverted flare" a flare?
They don't just show a 'flare'....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm5108/overview/
Can you use steel fittings to aluminum?
Or is it like house plumbing where you need a dielectric union..?
Thanks for your patience... I'm such a newb...
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jhoefer
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 987
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| Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 12:40 am Post subject: |
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| Clatter wrote: |
| jhoefer wrote: |
| The tube isn't locked in to the fitting like a flare fitting |
So, why not just flare the end of my steel 3/8" fuel line, and use a flare-to-JIC fitting?
The flare fittings I find just don't seem right...
Maybe they don't include the nut, or something?
Is an "inverted flare" a flare?
They don't just show a 'flare'....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm5108/overview/
Can you use steel fittings to aluminum?
Or is it like house plumbing where you need a dielectric union..?
Thanks for your patience... I'm such a newb... |
That's not the right fitting. That's a special use adapter.
For an AN or JIC hardline, you first slide on a "tube nut" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm3675/overview/ over the line then slide on a "tube sleeve" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm3671/overview/ then flare the tubing with a 37 degree single flare. Slide the sleeve down to the flare, the sleeve reinforces the back side of the flare and provides a nice square edge for the nut to clamp against. This female hardline is now ready to connect to an AN/JIC male fitting. AN/JIC hose ends are female, so if you want to connect them together you'd need an AN/JIC male/male union fitting. But if you're doing that, it should probably be a bulkhead fitting or have some other method of supporting that joint to protect the hardline from flex and vibration. Look at the connection between your brake hard lines and flex lines for an example. If a hardline will connect to something already rigidly fixed to the chassis that has a male fitting no extra support is required.
An inverted (double) flare is typically found in US brake hard lines. A male tube nut (AN uses a female nut) goes on the line (it does does double duty as flare reinforcement so no extra sleeve needed), then the line is flared with an inverted flare. This male hardline can then connect to a female inverted flare fitting.
Here's a picture how each type looks: http://static.speedwaymotors.com/images/charts/Brake_System.jpg
In home plumbing, copper/steel causes a lot galvanic corrosion hence the need to separate the metals with an insulator. Aluminum/steel is a lot less than that but could still potentially cause issues getting the joint apart in the future. I feel a bigger reason not to mix a steel fitting/aluminum line or vice versa is with steel being harder, it's easier to score or distort the aluminum sealing surface such that if the joint is then taken apart and reconnected, it could cause leaks. It's an issue regardless, I just think it's more likely if you mix them. |
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slalombuggy
Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2010
Posts: 9145
Location: Canada
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| Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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I use all Red Horse fitting on my cars and have't had any problems at all. I have a Ridgid flare tool. It was expensive but worth every penny as a flare takes no time at all and is done right the first time. My hard lines are all 3/8 steel bulk line. For my motor I usually buy a couple of 5' sticks of 3/8 so that it is nice and straight to start with. For my bulkhead fittings I use steel JIC fittings and then run aluminum fittings outside the tunnels.
brad |
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