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stretch521
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: McMinnville
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 Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 10:58 am Post subject: hello! new VW type 3 owner |
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Hi everyone. Just got myself a sweet Lil 73 squareback about two weeks ago and have been really digging it. Been reading a lot of the amazing info you all have been posting! Just wanted to say hello!
Looking to do a service on her and need some info.
What fluid to use in man-trans?
Best oil and waight?
Fuel injection cleaning and servising?
I have owened many cars and truck's and been a mechanic for as long as Lego's lol. My first VW and newest car I've owened yet lol so any help is great! Look forward to meeting and talking to many of you soon.[/img] |
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Donnie strickland
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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JeeJeeJason
Samba Member
Joined: May 23, 2014
Posts: 234
Location: Bay area, CA
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| Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:38 am Post subject: |
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Welcome and looking forward to seeing the car. Like Donnie said, post some pics!
I'm also new to Fuel Injection on VW's and have been learning a lot along the way. It's not quite as complicated as it seems but definitely harder to find parts when you need them in a pinch. |
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34013
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:51 am Post subject: |
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First, get a Bentley manual. You will need it. If you can find the older version with color wiring diagrams, so much the better. If not, download those here on the Samba.
Now you want to get the fuel lines at 100%. This means spending some $$ for FI-rated hose. It's not just for the pressure, which standard gas line can handle, but the resistance to alcohol and other additives in modern gasoline. You will need about 25 feet, and about 35 FI clamps (not worm clamps). All available from your FLAPS; I went to NAPA. You will want the small donut seals for the injector tips so you won't get vacuum leaks at the injectors. The larger donuts are not for sealing, just vibration-protected mounting.
Next, check the fuel filler overflow hose(s). They are probably cracked, letting water and dirt into the tank. Jim Adney sells a better-than-OEM kit to handle this.
Replace your fuel filter up front. Good idea to replace the metal fuel sock in the tank outlet, too.
Lastly, make yourself a fuel pressure gauge out of a 0-60 psi water pressure gauge plus a few fittings. Adjust your fuel pressure to 28 psi.
After this long weekend of work, you will have zero leaks, good pressure, and a clean flow of gas.
Move on to vacuum lines, No sense tuning a FI engine with vacuum leaks. This includes lines to the pressure sensor (MPS) and idle air valve (AAR).
Now give it a standard tune-up, including new non-platinum spark plugs. Check the compression while you have them out.
Get the dwell and timing dead-on.
Only now can you tell of the FI system is working right for you.
Doing all this work will make it run better, but more importantly, more reliably and safely. More safety items include flushing/bleeding and adjusting the brakes including the e-brake cables. One item unique to the Type 3 is setting the upper torsion arm play. Bentley explains how; it is not hard but it is a safety critical item to have it adjusted and locked down correctly.
At this point your car will start, stop, run, and not burn up! |
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stretch521
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: McMinnville
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| Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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| Thank you for the awesome info!!!!!!!! shes been running great and ive been having a blast with her. still working on getting my pics to load but soon I will. Im needing some info on the alternator swap im going to be doing. no one seems to say anything about how to wire this bugger up. im using a 12v/70amp CARQUEST#14910A anyone done this swap? I have read thought the whole wright up a couple time and still nothing. call me a dut but don't want to light on fire or anything. |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22425
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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| stretch521 wrote: |
| Im needing some info on the alternator swap im going to be doing. no one seems to say anything about how to wire this bugger up. im using a 12v/70amp CARQUEST#14910A anyone done this swap? I have read thought the whole wright up a couple time and still nothing. call me a dut but don't want to light on fire or anything. |
I'm not familiar with the alt in question, but if it's a Denso crossover number, then you'll need to do a couple of things like step up in the wire size (red wire) for the larger amp draw (70 amp alt) to run to the starter, tape off the end of the existing red wire in the engine bay (won't be used). You will use the green wire, as it's going to turn on the warning light.
Ok, under the rear seat, where the old Voltage Regulator is, you're going to remove all the wire from it. Now, you'll tie all of the reds together (except the old one heading to the engine bay, as you're not using it any more), and you'll tie the green and blue wires together. That's it.
Now, IF you were using a 40 amp alt (or even a 50 amp unit), you could re-use the red wire that went to the generator, and just tied it together at the VR and been done. 
Some say that you need to upsize that wire, but don't take into account that that's the wire size for the main power wires in the car, so you're only really upsizing to to keep it from melting. Maybe. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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76sealingwaxred
Samba Member
Joined: October 28, 2012
Posts: 38
Location: Laguna Beach, CA
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| Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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Can someone provide a source of the vacuum hoses needed for the AAR and MPS? Can these be ordered direct or is this a bulk hose item. I am replacing all my fuel lines and these 2 hoses are rock hard and should be replaced. Please point me in the right direction
Thanks
Jim |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22425
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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| 76sealingwaxred wrote: |
Can someone provide a source of the vacuum hoses needed for the AAR and MPS? Can these be ordered direct or is this a bulk hose item. I am replacing all my fuel lines and these 2 hoses are rock hard and should be replaced. Please point me in the right direction
Thanks
Jim |
I believe they are both standard 3/8th fuel hose.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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stretch521
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: McMinnville
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| Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:13 am Post subject: |
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| Thank you Bobnotch that is the goods I was lokking for!! |
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:41 am Post subject: |
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Bring it down to Tram near Eugene, OR if you need help, assuming you are in McMinnville, OR?
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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stretch521
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: McMinnville
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 11:19 am Post subject: |
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| Yup here in McMinnville Oregon. still working on making the brakets so replaced the brushes over the weekend and helped a lot. had a strange thing happen last night though. driving home from work and she was running sweet. then I had no throttle and the oil and gen light kicked on. coasted into the driveway and figured id try and start it again and she fired up like nothing even happened. started just fine this morning also. any ideas out there? |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34013
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 12:00 pm Post subject: |
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| stretch521 wrote: |
| Yup here in McMinnville Oregon. still working on making the brakets so replaced the brushes over the weekend and helped a lot. had a strange thing happen last night though. driving home from work and she was running sweet. then I had no throttle and the oil and gen light kicked on. coasted into the driveway and figured id try and start it again and she fired up like nothing even happened. started just fine this morning also. any ideas out there? |
Quitting cold is typically a broken or loose electrical connection. You should check them all, but a few in particular are:
- Temp sensor in the #3 head. If you unplug it or the wire breaks, this will flood the engine and make it quit right away.
- three-prong connector at the distributor trigger points.
- fuel pump power:
-- main relay under back seat.
-- pump relay at bulkhead near fusebox.
-- pump relay feed in engine bay at front left tin just under the hatch.
Last edited by KTPhil on Mon Jan 05, 2015 2:01 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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stretch521
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: McMinnville
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| Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 1:43 pm Post subject: |
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| Thank you KTPhile. Ill take a gander tonight and see whats up. |
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stretch521
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: McMinnville
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Alright so the awesome dub has been running great!! thank you all for the awesome info. Now I've been trying to find any info on the rear drums. I've got some brake noise that sounds like pads rubbing the drum. I am going to be taking it apart when I get home but is there anything in particular you all have gone through? can I turn them like my old American cars to true em back? and feed back or links would be greatly appreciated |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34013
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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Late Type 3s have "composite drums" in back, and you only have to remove lug nuts and the two small round hex head bolts; you do NOT have to remove the large axle nut.
So it's easy to do once you back off the brake adjustments a little. See that everything is there, tight, and not worn out. If you do this, I recommend removing the springs and shoes, then the adjusting studs/stars. LIGHTLY coat them with anti-seize where they rub and in the mounting block, but SPARINGLY so none can get on the shoes. You will thank yourself every time you go to adjust them.
Last edited by KTPhil on Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:46 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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stretch521
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: McMinnville
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| Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Thank you again!! turned out that the main nut was a bit loss so snugged it up and it seems to be good. still a little noise but I think the pads had a small offset rub so hopefully they will seat back in good. |
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stretch521
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: McMinnville
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| Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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| Also have been trying to figure out why my passenger side heat duct is letting water in? anyone have a suggestion on that bewilderment! |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34013
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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| stretch521 wrote: |
| Thank you again!! turned out that the main nut was a bit loss so snugged it up and it seems to be good. still a little noise but I think the pads had a small offset rub so hopefully they will seat back in good. |
If it was loose you have to REALLY tighten it and check it often.
It takes almost 220 ft-lbs so you need a breaker bar or torque tool to get it up to proper torque. Also, if it has worn the splines on the drum you will find it loosening up every so often, a safety issue! You may need to shop for new drum centers if this has happened. |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34013
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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| stretch521 wrote: |
| Also have been trying to figure out why my passenger side heat duct is letting water in? anyone have a suggestion on that bewilderment! |
Up front? Your windshield rubber seal has probably failed, and the water is running down the defrost vent and the A-pillar into your heater channels, and will rust them out in time. |
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stretch521
Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2014
Posts: 16
Location: McMinnville
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| Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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Cool ill keep an eye on it and see how it goes.
About the water.. I thought that's what was going on so I had a new windshield and seal put in. where I park the nose is sloping down. its almost like its coming from the back and coming up when I stop. |
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