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'70 future class 11 wannabe
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johndl58
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 4:41 pm    Post subject: '70 future class 11 wannabe Reply with quote

Heres my 70 standard. My end result is going to be a class 11 style bug. a few pics of when I got it and now. Po had front torsion bars removed so it was slammed to ground with no suspension. He also reindexed rear. So far Ive done basic tune up stuff on it and removed and rebuilt front beam and added saw adjusters, replaced ball joints, and all rubber boots. I picked up 2 stock rims with 6x15 polyester snow tires on them for $30. Still need 2 more rims if anyone is holding.
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Mr. Chuck
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 22, 2014 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet, I'll be following you as well.
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larryvance66
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sway bar you removed can be cut and inserted into the tie rods to beef them up. Old school off road trick. FYI
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johndl58
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Larry, Id love to hear more bout that sway bar trick. Cut how and inserted where? My progress will be slow for next few months being its winter and Ive yet to score a garage to work in yet. But Im stock piling supplies and info for when I do or when weather breaks in spring.
I plan on getting all the fenders straight and at least primed over the winter, that way its minimal prep for paint in spring.
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enjoyther1de
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johndl58 wrote:
Larry, Id love to hear more bout that sway bar trick. Cut how and inserted where? My progress will be slow for next few months being its winter and Ive yet to score a garage to work in yet. But Im stock piling supplies and info for when I do or when weather breaks in spring.
I plan on getting all the fenders straight and at least primed over the winter, that way its minimal prep for paint in spring.


You take the tie rods off, cut the sway bar down to fit in side between the tie rod ends, remove one tie rod end and slip the sway bar into the tie rod. Do that on both tie rods and reinstall. Don't forget to align the front end.
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johndl58
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it enjoy. I was thinking too much. Basically just makes it solid instead of tubular. Brilliant.
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johndl58
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, a while back I posted some pics of a plumbing fitting I found a po had installed on cyl 3 spark plug to get it to "thread"in and run. Along with that, cyl 4 is stripped as well and has a heli coil that came out when I removed the plug. Obviously Id like to address these issues and think that I probably need at the least to replace the heads. Yes? No? If yes, is there anything I can do without major mods that will get me more hp/torque/performance? How much should I expect to spend?
While I have motor out, what other maintenance/mods/reliability improvements should be addressed?

Thanks, John
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sailtexas186548
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had good luck with both non-locking heli-coils and "threadserts" in aluminum head spark plug holes. With the heads off both repairs are very straight forward, Drill, tap, insert repair or your choice, done.

Often you can just install a new heli-coil insert where the old one came out
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johndl58
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do they come in different sizes? The one "fitting" that came out of #3 is rather large. Ill see if I can find the pic.
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johndl58
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here it is. There are a few more in my gallery if you need.

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johndl58
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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johndl58
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its a 1500 sp H code by the way.
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sailtexas186548
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well heli-coils come in different sizes for repairing all different threads. The insert type of repair (threadserts, keenserts, etc.) come in different sizes, and different outside threads for the same inside threads depending on the size of hole you have to drill to remove the damaged parent metal.

That pipe plug you found in your head is basically an insert repair it's just not super refined. That's a large outter thread, there may not be enough parent metal left to drill and tap it for yet another insert
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johndl58
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To add a little info about that insert, that pic is AFTER I cut it down. It definitely had/has to be affecting the efficiency of that cylinder.
I guess there's no way to tell without pulling it and seeing if there's enough "meat" left on it to repair.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its been a while since I updated this thread since nothing huge had been happening. Front end has been rebuilt and saw adjusters installed. 225/75/15s on back and 6x15s on front have been added. Interior is currently out but pans have been por15'd inside and out. But most recently, some light body and new paint has been completed. This whole process has been chronicled in paint/body section under single stage runs and orange peel.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few pics from along the way..

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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oldcrow
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the cool chick in the photo looks like she's waiting to have some fun
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guppysoup
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 01, 2015 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice!
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sixfootdan
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool man, I'm building one too so I'll be watching.
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