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New project 1969 Fasty
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Brent
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it's too far gone... wouldn't feel safe riding around like that. Someone must have taken it too low. Rolling Eyes

You could probably use the clamps again, but they're not hard to find so probably easier to replace. There's also a triangle shaped washer/spacer on the frame side. Looks like it's there, but really beat up. It also looks like the rubber collar has split, but it's kind of hard to tell.

I don't think you'd really have to cut much off to weld in an undamaged lower piece considering the top half should be fine. I'm certain it won't be too difficult to find someone with a cut up framehead.

Good luck with the project.
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right. So here are the beginnings of my plan Idea ("I have about 12% of a plan" -Guardians of the Galaxy)

    scrounge up a couple of replacement beam mounting brackets
    hammer/reshape/grind the framehead portion back into some shape and weld on about 1-2" of steel below the bolt holes just to spread the bolt "load"
    get some replacement grade 8 bolts and clamp it all back together

It won't be pretty, unfortunately, but the beam/beam brackets have a couple of other attaching bolts between the cross-members, no? -so it shouldn't want to literally fall off. Rolling Eyes
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would weld up that framehead too. You can fix it.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

beetlejc wrote:
Houston, we have a problem.
...and from underneath I found this:

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That's the street side of the beam mounting brackets. This is the good side, btw. Mangled. I'd be curious to get your advice on THAT mess.

I'm not seeing a lot of options besides a 5lb sledge. As it stands, I MIGHT be able to work the bolts out but I'm not too sure about what will be left to reassemble.


I'd use a cut off wheel, and cut thru the bolt. You still have 3 more to remove, just to get that clamp off. You can replace the bolt with a grade 8 bolt once you're putting it back together.
Then, once you have the beam out of the way, I'd heat and beat it back into shape. If that doesn't get it into a useable shape, you can always add (weld) some 12 gauge metal in place, and shape that, or find someone willing to send you the metal needed to fix that section.

Take a look at what some of the bug beam guys have been doing for that lower bolt (T-3 air ride thread), as that might even give you a few more options on replacing that bolt and metal. I only suggest that, as those guys are trying to relocate that bolt/clamp end, to get lower to the ground. Shocked Just an idea.
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P-Scot
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm definitely loving that roof rack and oh, the color too Laughing
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Where are you located? I believe this exact fastback was my original inspiration for my fastback restoration. I love it!
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm here in Jacksonville, FL. Yours sure looks sharp in that shade of blue! For a minute there, I thought you might have been a previous owner.

Update for today:
I've ordered a bunch of front-end parts from boo-koo-z and while I wait for them to be delivered I've:
    replaced the hood release cable
    repacked the rear bearings/replaced seals
    installed rear shocks and new bump stops
    installed a speedometer cable
    replaced the shift rod bushing and coupler assl'y
    installed the front turn signals

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Rear ride height. Between the new torsion bushings, KYB's and torsion bar reset, it came out a little high. I hope it settles a bit once I drive it around.
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I'm dreading taking this apart:
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It'll settle some, but probably not much more than an inch or so.
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I've got the front end completely broken down and beam out. I ended up just cutting off the lower mount bolts, saving as much of the framehorn as possible. I've been doing some general cleaning and rebuilding of the lower framehorn beam mounts. I'll upload some pics of that a little bit later.

I came across something that's thrown me for a loop. I was reading in another post thread about the left inner tie rod end having a 9 degree bend in it. Notice anything unusual in this pic?
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It would appear that the "bent" tie rod end is on the right inner.

When I put this all back together, I'd like to make sure it's clean and correct.

Any thoughts?
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No comments on the 9 degree tie rod seemingly on the wrong side? IS there some factory reason that could have happened or did someone just screw the pooch?

Some shots of the lower frame horn repair. Not pretty but rock solid. (Also note the difference the camera in the iPhone 6 makes compared to the iPhone 4 from earlier post pics)
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

beetlejc wrote:
No comments on the 9 degree tie rod seemingly on the wrong side? IS there some factory reason that could have happened or did someone just screw the pooch?

Some shots of the lower frame horn repair. Not pretty but rock solid. (Also note the difference the camera in the iPhone 6 makes compared to the iPhone 4 from earlier post pics)
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Someone screwed the pooch, or just wasn't paying attention to what they were doing.

Nice repair job. Looks good from here. You did get the bottom side tied in too right? Wink
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it's been just a little while since I've posted an update here so here goes:

I've finished with the suspension mods, returning the Fasty to a more sane ride height for myself and the family:

Before:
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After:
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I think I hit the nail on the head with the measurements. The rear has settled a bit and I still have to install the gas tank and spare tire. These are stock 165/80r15 tires for now.

I didn't take a lot of extra pics since repairing the lower frame horn mounts (and I didn't "box" them in Bobnotch. I was having enough trouble getting a wrench on them as they stood.) Most of the work was simply cleaning and reassembly. (new tie rod boots and balljoints, repacked bearings, new speedo cable.) I am trying out the old rear Koni shocks on the front instead of the gas-charged shocks that I bought. They seem to be a good fit at full extension.

Additional work performed:
    driver seat repair
    valve adjustment - be sure to do this in neutral kids!
    driver door panel repair - used old door skin on a new card that I cut using the old one as a template

Pending work:
I'd like to try out that electric push-button washer mod to the original wiper knob that I've seen in the forum. I already have a kit.

For the record, I've only ever driven this car, in it's worst shape, for about 1 mile before it broke down in my driveway back in November. -really looking forward to a spin!
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I AM having issues finding center caps for these wheels. The hole diameter measures 2 7/16" no matter what. CLEARLY not 2 1/2" that some vendors are advertising their center caps as.

Also, I bought a new horn from ISP and it's not working. Initially, it would click or clunk a bit when activated from the steering wheel. I remembered reading something about an adjusting screw in the forum so I removed some waxy goop that covered what appeared to be an adjusting screw and loosened it. Now it doesn't make any noise at all...tightened or loosened.

Does anyone have any insight on either of these?
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's time for an update. Now that we've moved into our new home and I've settled (still settling) into my new garage, I can begin the exterior work.

I actually made a donation to the local church youth group for a couple of young people to sand for a couple of hours.
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Let the rust repair begin in earnest! Apparently, I'm a little out of practice with my welding but I'll get better before it's all done and at the end of the day, it's for the enjoyment of the build.
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Let me just go ahead and say that removing that rear fender was a real PITA
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I'm waiting on removing the glass and doors before lifting the body off the pan in hopes that I might preserve some of the decent interior. I'll drape some plastic over it while doing the lower rust repair.

I did manage to find center caps, btw. CIP1 had the right size...60mm I think.

Stay runed. More to come.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Wed May 20, 2015 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using Phosphoric Acid & MasterSeries/POR15 inside the fenders etc before you weld them closed? Better treat/paint everything you can reach.
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Indeed, I am. Generally, I take advantage of opportunities like this or item replacement, to perform a thorough clean/repair/repaint etc.

In this case, I used a combination of Eastwoods Rust Converter and Rust Encapsulator. Other areas will get the Eastwood Frame sealer. I have some POR-15 I'm reserving for fender wells, I think. It seemed to go on fairly thick the first time I used it so it seems appropriate for fender wells ...and, oh, some metal etch for most of the exterior bare metal when I can.
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some shots of my recent rust repair of the RF fender. The welding is getting better but it's extremely thin metal to work with!

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tcolt45
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PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2015 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good looking Fasty. great progress so far.
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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I've noticed that most every Type 3 that I look at has smoothed air vents on the rear fenders. Mine look like this:

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Is this normal (model year difference) or something wonky a PO has done?
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those screw on vents were made/sold because some people/buyers questioned why the stock vents faced the rear! The best fix is to weld them into your fenders, so they look original.
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

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beetlejc
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well...here goes! I really wasn't planning on one more thing to do on my "to do" list.
Getting the vents off was probably the hardest part.
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