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Mike Fisher Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 17970 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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Those look like they are gonna weld in custom but flush! _________________ https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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catbox Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2007 Posts: 866 Location: Portland, Oregon
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Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2015 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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Looks great.
Keep it up. _________________ "...these cars were preferred by the racers because the strut front suspension results in far superior handling than the regular torsion bar front end..." - Keith Seume. |
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beetlejc Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2011 Posts: 181 Location: FL
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:38 am Post subject: |
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The first came out OK. Some minor flaws became more apparent once I gave it a coat of primer but overall, I'm pleased. I coulda/shoulda flanged it but I was too impatient to wait for a flanging tool to be delivered.
On to the 2nd vent. This one did not come off as neatly as the first one did so I'll have to do some corrective surgery to straighten it out.
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Clatter Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003 Posts: 7544 Location: Santa Cruz
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:23 am Post subject: |
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Looking good!
I for one believe that the vents were faced forward to make the car run cooler.
You will be glad you did this in the end, even if the PO forced your hand. _________________ Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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I think you did a great job getting that fenders vents. Don’t worry about the minor flaw as it’ll get taken care of with some glaze when you get there. Keep working that other fender and it’ll come around too. _________________ MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
Trailer rebuild |
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beetlejc Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2011 Posts: 181 Location: FL
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Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 8:58 am Post subject: |
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-finished off the second vent. Thank goodness I'm a really good grinder.
Started and finished another repair along the nose
I ended up grinding down the leading cut edge a bit more so my repair piece would sit roughly flush. Since I don't have the means to bend nice curved edges like this, I have to get creative.
-turned out pretty well, I think.
I believe my next steps will be to scrub out the exposed fender wells so they are nice and clean and have some tooth for whatever coating I choose to put in there. Yes, I'm going to try out some type of coating rather than straight paint in here. (and in the fenders themselves possibly)
I've been reviewing lots of products from truck bedliner to actual undercoating products to POR15 (which I have and seemed to go on rather thickly the last time I used it)
Are there any opinions on this? |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2015 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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Like your progress in tackling those areas. Your vents came out great! Keep at it. I'd recommend shinning a light from the inside of the apron to expose any pin holes that may have come up.
As for coatings, I was on the fence with what I was going to use. Primarily due to the amount of metal I replaced on the lower end of the car (footwell, rear wheel well area, rear apron area, rear corners, .etc). I didn't feel paint was enough. So I choose to go with Raptor liner. I used it on my pan rebuild and it looks great. I took it to the shell and you can see what I did to it on page 42 below. I also went with it on my fenders, inner doors( not the window frame area), inner hatch and underside of the hood. Check the next page as well. You're doing great. Keep at it man!
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...;start=820 _________________ MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
Trailer rebuild |
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DONGKG The Araneta Boys
Joined: August 28, 2006 Posts: 5475 Location: Cainta, Rizal, Philippines, "A Certified Type 3 and Karmann Ghia Maniac"
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 7:10 am Post subject: |
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beetlejc wrote: |
-finished off the second vent. Thank goodness I'm a really good grinder.
I believe my next steps will be to scrub out the exposed fender wells so they are nice and clean and have some tooth for whatever coating I choose to put in there. Yes, I'm going to try out some type of coating rather than straight paint in here. (and in the fenders themselves possibly)
I've been reviewing lots of products from truck bedliner to actual undercoating products to POR15 (which I have and seemed to go on rather thickly the last time I used it)
Are there any opinions on this? |
I like using PPG's DP series epoxy primers for sealing things up. I've been using them since the 90's (in different colors), and can't complain about them. Plus, you can use them over just about anything (plastic, steel, aluminum, fiberglass, most body fillers, etc...). Plus, you can top coat them with just about anything you can think of.
I really don't like POR 15, as the only thing I've had it actually work on like the can said was a utility trailer. Other than it, it never performed like I wanted it too. And with paint costing as much as it does these days, I can't afford to do a job twice.
Now, I have to agree, you're doing a great job on it, and you're really gaining on it. Being a good grinder helps. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Mike Fisher Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 17970 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:42 am Post subject: |
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Use body filler where necessary to cherry it out for paint. POR15 bubbled after 6 months on the pans we wire wheeled & painted with it! I keep reading that MasterSeries silver & black is good/better for chassis & inner fenders. _________________ https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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beetlejc Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2011 Posts: 181 Location: FL
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Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 9:08 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the encouragement, guys. This, unfortunately, isn't slated to be a complete rebuild, so I'm moderating my efforts somewhat based on $$$ and time while still trying to "do it right" and minimize shortcuts. I'm sure you all get it.
That being said, once I decide on how to handle my fender wells, I WILL be taking the body off the pan for work on both heater channels and rockers. (I have a certain order-of-events in mind that should work) The interior was/is in good shape, so I'm trying to preserve that as well as I can.
Mont3 - I think you did a kick-ass job with the Raptor liner. That would be the ideal application for me throughout if I strip the car down that far. I also like the car stand you have your squareback on. I've got to build one up here pretty soon and could model yours somewhat.
Bobnotch - My intent is to repaint close to the original cobalt blue after all this rust repair. -probably go back to the original steel wheels. -kindve an old "rally" look, I suppose. Correct me if I'm wrong, because I'm investing in a medium compressor and LVLP guns (I wont have the capacity for an HVLP, I believe) to paint this thing, epoxy comes first, then polyurethane, then top-coat (single stage). |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22425 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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beetlejc wrote: |
Thanks for all the encouragement, guys.
Bobnotch - My intent is to repaint close to the original cobalt blue after all this rust repair. -probably go back to the original steel wheels. -kindve an old "rally" look, I suppose. Correct me if I'm wrong, because I'm investing in a medium compressor and LVLP guns (I wont have the capacity for an HVLP, I believe) to paint this thing, epoxy comes first, then polyurethane, then top-coat (single stage). |
Close. Bare metal, epoxy primer, then a "high build" primer, then a seal coat (I use reduced epoxy), then top coat (color). Unless your polyurethane is a "high build", then you've got it right. I only say that, as all "high build" primers are not created equal. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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beetlejc Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2011 Posts: 181 Location: FL
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Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 11:05 am Post subject: |
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Well, now some real work can begin!
I've ordered a replacement heater channel for the right side and rockers for both sides. I see some additional fabrication required here and there but nothing major. |
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beetlejc Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2011 Posts: 181 Location: FL
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Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2015 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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So I have a few more updates to post. -starting with a support bar I've welded/bolted in place on the passenger side.
This will be the side that gets the whole heater channel replaced and a new rocker. (cip1)
The drivers side was bad but not as completely rusted through front-to-back like the passenger side was.
I hope to be able to rebuild this area. There's a curved bit that directs airflow internally that I'd like to emulate but was completely gone. I think MonT3 had some pics here.
While I had the area open, I was able to investigate the full length of the channel to ensure there was no more rust. I tried out this Eastwood product that seems to apply well into nasty areas like this.
I used it everywhere that tube would reach. Note the squirt-throughs at the trim holes. I need moar!
The start of drivers side repairs at the rear fender well. Still some grinding to do.
A little intimidating posting my work next to artists like Clatter and his "divorcemobile". |
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W1K1 Samba Member
Joined: March 04, 2004 Posts: 4921 Location: Southern AB
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beetlejc Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2011 Posts: 181 Location: FL
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Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 5:24 am Post subject: |
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Mike Fisher wrote: |
Using Phosphoric Acid & MasterSeries/POR15 inside the fenders etc before you weld them closed? Better treat/paint everything you can reach. |
Mike Fisher: I went ahead and found a product specifically listed as Phosphoric Acid. Eastwood calls theirs "Fast Etch" and I have to admit I prefer it over the other products I've been using. -cleans up that surface rust and gets into areas that I'm just not interested in breaking apart. Good call, sir! |
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beetlejc Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2011 Posts: 181 Location: FL
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Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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I've been plugging away on the heater channels and rockers for a bit now.
Here's a bit I finished on the drivers side behind the door. I've managed to capture the curve of the lower portion pretty well.
I used a bit of salvaged heater tube from the removed passenger heater channel to tack in the 7 inches or so of rusted away tube on the drivers side.
I used the old bent portion of the tube to fabricate that inner shielding portion. Not perfect by a long shot and I wont be making that curved deflector bit but it wont matter much. It was at this point that I realized that the functionality of the side foot vent controls on both sides of the car are utterly destroyed. I wont try rebuilding it/them. What this'll mean is that when I open the flap from the heater channels, I'll get both foot and windshield heat all the time. Not a big deal for those times I need heat here in Fla.
Finally, the outer rocker goes into place. This was really hard to measure with any accuracy given the shape of the thing. I was a few millimeters wide on a couple of the gaps so that'll be fun to close up. Fortunately, it turned out to be very straight, though. Altogether, it should have a good solid finish when completed.
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beetlejc Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2011 Posts: 181 Location: FL
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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:32 am Post subject: |
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So, here's the results of the rocker panel work. -not too shabby. I realized that the repair I did to the drivers door above it needs a little rework.
I moved onto the inside of this part now. I've committed myself to fabbing up this heater channel. "How hard can it be?" I said to myself... It was kind've a bear bending and hammering this all out without a proper brake.
This is about where it'll go. I'm not sure how this piece mates to the leading curved portion between here and the pedal assembly. The passenger side is also completely gone so I have no comparison.
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Mike Fisher Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 17970 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 8:45 am Post subject: |
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This is shows the transition from straight to curved.
_________________ https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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beetlejc Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2011 Posts: 181 Location: FL
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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:26 am Post subject: |
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That is excellent, sir! I really need to quit buying my projects on the East coast. |
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