2054cc Build

krs.br79 · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 10:02 am Post subject:

So I think for now I am just going to go with a digital rev limiter like the Pertronix 600. Down the road I may look at upgrading to something nicer and more customizable if needed. But really it comes down to ease of use, my skill level (or lack of), and a real need.

Thanks for the advice.

krs.br79 · Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 12:25 pm Post subject:

Cleaned the case today, a little simple green and some brushes on my makeshift bench.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Followed up by a long rinse with fresh water, blown dry with compressed air, and a light oil on the steel pieces.

krs.br79 · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:01 pm Post subject:

So when I picked up my latest cache of parts, one of the pushrod tubes had a small dimple in it.

Will that be detrimental to the pushrod, or too minor to be a issue? Should I look at swapping it out?

smkn_vw · Samba Member Joined: August 22, 2004 Posts: 809

The dimple on the tube looks minor from what the pic is showing and won't be an issue for the pushrod but I would call the supplier they may send you a free replacement. I would but that's just the OCD side of me.

If those have the seam down the length of the tubes you will be installing it with the seam facing up to avoid leaking...maybe the dimple will also be to the upside and not restrict oil flow back to the case.

I would check the tubes for metal cast flashing on the ends and inside and clean them down smooth to allow the seals to seat well and also inside to not obstruct oil flow. By the way very cool build to watch.
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krs.br79 · Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 7:19 am Post subject:

mark tucker · Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 7:30 am Post subject:

I wont use oe style tubes. use some breakleen in the gallys to be sure there good &clean and be sure to remove the small plug neer the pully as it gets all funked up and cant be cleaned out without removing it. Im not sure about simple green as it eats aluminum.Im not sure what it does to mag,but these mag cases have aluminum in them.

krs.br79 · Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 8:19 am Post subject:

krs.br79 · Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 8:50 pm Post subject:

Still waiting on heads and rotating assembly to get here....

But, my fresh refurbished flaps, hoover bit and new thermostat showed up from Awesome Powdercoats. Now I need to find a good diagram showing how to put them all together. Confused

krs.br79 · Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:54 pm Post subject:

I did some fitting of the flaps tonight, and I had a question in regards to one side of the flaps.

Here's everything hooked up, minus the clips on the rods.

Here's where my question is.

This is the left side flap fully closed.

With the left side fully closed, the right side does not close fully.

Right side fully closed with connecting rod removed.

I have found a few older threads with similar issues, but no consensus on if that's normal, abnormal, or not that big of a deal. I would think that when the flaps are closed, both sides should be fully closed, is this correct?

glideking · Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 1:36 am Post subject:

I don't think it is critical that they be closed perfectly together. Much more important that they are both fully open at the same time. Adjust them to do that.
Kurt
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krs.br79 · Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 12:29 pm Post subject:

krs.br79 · Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 7:08 pm Post subject:

A new item showed up today for my build...

About the only thing that's shown up for a while. Still waiting on my rotating assembly and heads. The wait is brutal, everything I read up on initially has become a distant memory, I find I have to keep re-reading things to keep it fresh in my mind for when everything is finally in and I start the assembly.

krs.br79 · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 8:36 pm Post subject:

Picked up the rest of my engine parts today.

-Crank
-Rods
-Heads
-Rocker Assemblies
-Pertronix Digital Rev Limiter
-Doghouse oil cooler adapter
-Doghouse oil cooler
-misc odds and ends
-Lightweight flywheel
-Lifters

I spent some time this morning and cleaned the crank, flywheel and rocker assembly. I again used simple green, rinsed and lightly oiled the parts. Tonight I had a chance to plastigauge each of the rods on the crank. Seems like everything is well within spec with tight clearances.

1- .002"
2- .0025"
3- .002"
4- .0025"

That's pretty much all the time I had for tonight. Tomorrow I'll clean up the crank again, the bearings and rods, then assemble the crank with the gears.

Question, my tom wilson book says to add a drop of locktite to the rod bolts. Is this recommended today? I had planned on using the ARP Assembly lube on the rod bolts, to ensure a accurate torque, which is what I've done on other water cooled engines.

Thanks

stan_tichomirov · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 8:53 pm Post subject:

Either ARP lube for ARP bolts, or oil on regular bolts, no loctite on rods is what I was taught.

Stan
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krs.br79 · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 8:54 pm Post subject:

modok · Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 12:41 am Post subject:

Agree.

krs.br79 · Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 7:51 pm Post subject:

Today I was able to clean the rods, and assemble the crank. I'm not sure if my method was right, but putting the gears on was not as easy as the Tom Wilson book said they would be. After heating them up, they did not just drop right on.

Then came the rods. I am using Lucas assembly lube, applied with a small brush to ensure a good even coating on the bearing. The ARP rod bolts were torqued in 15, 20, 24, 29 sequence, using ARP assembly lube on the threads and head of the bolt.

That's about it for today.

krs.br79 · Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 5:45 pm Post subject:

Today I had a chance to put the crank in, and torque the case together to check and ensure the crank spins freely. Everything went together great, so I decided to proceed to checking my deck height.

I used my dial gauge to find TDC, then whipped out the feeler gauges.

The .020" feeler fit perfect. Since it was determined that I would be aiming for a .060" deck height, I will be looking to order a set of .040" shims.

I had a very crappy laps of thinking when I was tightening down my cylinder in order to check the deck. For some reason, I thought to myself I better torque this appropriately to get a accurate reading.

As I was tightening the nut, I obviously put too much pressure on a area that is not designed to any force applied. I know this little break in the fin should not be detrimental to the overall cooling efficiency, or would it? Regardless, it kind of pissed me off, and I will always know it's there. I guess that's where experience is gained, as I will never do that again.


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