2054cc Build

[jfats808]

Dude fashion at least a 2 hole plate piece or buy the dh plate tool. Youve been doing good so far dont fug it up.
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2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

[krs.br79]

Yep, was trying to save the $40 on a one use tool.

[krs.br79]

So I am continuing with the assembly. I checked the camshaft backlash with both methods mentioned in the Wilson book, and everything looks to be well within spec. I checked the cam endplay with both my dial gauge, and then feeler gauges, and came up with .002" with both measurements. I shimmed the distributor drive gear, and attempted to time the distributor, crank, and camshaft.

I feel like everything is looking good, but can anyone verify for me? I can't get the slots in the distributor gear exactly perpendicular to the case seam, it's either slightly clockwise, or slightly anti clockwise depending on which tooth I slide it in on. I put a light dab of yellow wax on the #1 timing mark on the distributor for reference.

Crank gear and cam gear are set with the seam splitting the 2 dots on the crank gear.

Thanks

[[email protected]]

If you gave me a shout I'd have loaned you one. But you'll wind up doing another engine, this hobby is like that.......

PS: Why are you using an 009? So you know, the drive pinion orientation is different for an 009 compared to pretty much anything else. So changing distributors in the future is an additional headache.
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[krs.br79]

[[email protected]]

Set up the drive pinion with the distributor you are going to run (to be sure).
_________________
It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/vwpartsaircoolednet
and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net

[krs.br79]

[krs.br79]

So I am running into something that I am having trouble understanding.

I ensure the crank gear and cam gear are lined up appropriately 2 dots with the 1 in between splitting the case half, then set the distributor drive gear in per instructions with the offset notch perpendicular to the seam, I then set the crank pulley on and it is not showing TDC. I then rotate everything around so that #1 is at TDC, the crank pulley shows it is at TDC, but now my distributor is off, and the 2 dot - 1 dot are not even close.

Is that correct?

I'm thinking that I need to set the crank at TDC, #1 rod extended, cam lobes closed, then put my distributor drive gear in at TDC...But then the dots on the gears are apart...

[NewTechnicIan]

Hey, This is something the Wilson book kind of sucks at explaining. TDC doesn't line up with the timing dots. You have to do it in a few steps.

The way I'm doing it is you set up your crank and dizzy at TDC for #1, which will have your #1 conrod all the way extended and your dizzy timing notch and rotor lined up. Lock the dizzy orientation with the clamp and you can forget about it. Make sure to lock down the dizzy or you can damage the drive pinion and timing gear, but now the crank/dizzy timing is set together.
THEN you turn your crank so that its timing marks are splitting the crankcase so you can drop your cam in and line up with the timing dots. Your dizzy rotor will not be at TDC anymore but you will now have all 3 pieces properly timed together.

Make sense?
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My 73 Standard build - It's painted! It drives under its own power! Time to get it wired and upholstered!

My 1679 Engine build.

[mightymouse]

Ok. Ill try to not rain on your parade too much. Im not very good at sugar coating stuff so here goes.

#1... be prepared for oil pressure issues. .060 case is junk. Yes this engine will run, yes the oil light will flicker at idle. It is what it is.

#2 that cam and rockers.... single springs are nowhere near enough for that setup. should have duals.

which leads to #3... running more spring pressure and ratios with helical gears is just.... NO. Having seen the bearing damage from this... about 250 times now... i tell everyone. just get rid of the helicals as soon as you go to more spring pressure.

Also... why was there plastigauge... on the case halves? wha? what was that checking? if i didnt read something thats fine but thats not where that stuff goes. Machine shop who checked the case should have told you rather the bore was OK or not. If spread.... JUNK.

Good job on the dog house and welded fan. Thats going the right direction.

Is that a billet racer spacer for the crank gears? Always good to toss the stock gear spacer and go with a racer spacer. there is a reason that part exists. This current setup will float valves long before the stock spacer opens up... but still its a good idea.

Good work on attempting this build yourself. Love the attitude and willingness to learn.
Like i said, i post only to help. I do this for a living. Been building these engines over 20 years and have seen 90% bad come from some of the biggest names in this industry. Just because it "runs" doesnt mean that its right.

Need any help let me know. You have john helping and sounds like nearby, so thats good. John and i agree on most everything. With a few small details different.
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Nothing can stop the man with the right mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help the man with the wrong mental attitude.
Thomas Jefferson


Note to EVERYONE.
Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters.

[krs.br79]

[mightymouse]

nice reply.

well an open mind and good attitude will get you far with these things.

Keep up this pace and youll be fine.
_________________
Nothing can stop the man with the right mental attitude from achieving his goal; nothing on earth can help the man with the wrong mental attitude.
Thomas Jefferson


Note to EVERYONE.
Know your ZDDP levels or you WILL lose a cam and lifters.

[jfats808]

Just keep doing what you doing KRS. .060 cases are not junk, its a matter of perspective. Helical gears on the cam choice you selected wouldn't have been my choice. I do suggest doing a straight cut gear set. I know. The noise, but its your first engine. Its ok. Some guys have a huge chip on their shoulders. Its the way of the world. Take the good, dump the bad. Even a Fool can teach ( or remind) you something of use. Keep trucking and stop breaking your fins!
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2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125

[krs.br79]

Thanks for the words.

Also, I ordered a new replacement cylinder. It was relatively cheap, and a good reminder to not skimp out on the right tools.

I know, I could have probably been fine with the cracked one, but it really bothers me on the boneheaded move.

[krs.br79]

Tonight I was able put the two cases together, and create my shortblock. I checked the clearances on the rods and case, checked my cam and crank timing, distributor timing, and clearance on the cam bolts and my oil pump.

Using all new hardware, assembly lube, sticky red cam bulbe, and a fresh tube of Curil T, I assembled the shortblock following the procedures in my tom wilson book. I plugged all the threaded oil galleys using liquid locktite sealant.

I then installed the flywheel and gland nut, torquing to approximately 250 ft lbs and checked the crank end play using my dial gauge and magnetic base. It took me a few tries to ensure I was getting the right measurements, and several go around on my basic math skills to figure out which shims I need.

Flywheel shims, new cylinder head, and cylinder head shims should hopefully be here by the end of the week so that I can continue.

[krs.br79]

My .040" shims and pulley bolt arrived today, a day early. My replacement cylinder arrived as well.

I decided to move forward a bit today. I don't want to put the P&C's on all the way yet, as I would rather leave them off to recheck my crank endplay once those shims arrive tomorrow.

I checked the clearance on my Berg oil pump and cover. My .002" feeler would not fit in between the gears and the cover, so it is at least less than that and within spec. I had already checked the clearance on the cam bolts before I sealed the case, so I know I am good there.

I used a very thin coat of Curil T on the areas of the pump that Tom Wilson recommends to put sealant on. I lubed up the gears generously with my Lucas assembly lube, to help with the initial prime. I then used new nuts with the red seals for the cover, torquing them to the 14 ft lbs. One thing I neglected to check beforehand, that I caught in rereading the oil pump section, was to check the length of the studs beforehand. Three out of the four studs are equal length, and the fourth (lower left) was about a thread and a half shorter. It has plenty of bite, and torqued fine, but it made me stop and pause a sec to evaluate. I also threaded in the brass fitting for the full flow hoses, using loctite 565.

I also moved forward on installing the sump. I used Curil T on the mating surface of the sump and case, as well as the new gasket. I do not have a torque wrench that goes to 5ft lbs, but I used my 1/4" drive socket and snugged them tight.

I secured the pump strainer with the included allen bolt, using thread lock. I also put on the extended tube for the oil pickup.

I then installed the new gasket and the sump plate. I did not use Curil T here, as I figured I will be pulling it off after the initial breakin. I'll use it after the first round of oil changes.

I then massaged the back of the pulley tin to clear the brass fitting for the full flow. I think it will work, as there is clearance from the pulley with how it sits now. I've made not to check it as I progress with the rest of the tin.

[krs.br79]

My new flywheel shims showed up today. I put them on, then torqued down the gland nut to check the end play.

(didn't cheap out on tools, bought the flywheel lock)

End play came out to .006" this go around, which is too much according to the Tom Wilson book. I scratched my head and rechecked my math, and I ordered the right shims... I checked all three shims with my caliper and one of the shims is marked as .24mm when in fact it's sitting at about .21mm. WTF. So I ordered another series of shims, just in case. I'll call the vendor on Monday and get it straightened out hopefully.

I cleaned up my new cylinder with warm water and simple green, then decided to put together the P&C's and bolt on the heads to work on the rocker geometry. I must say, this is what I have been dreading the most.

Assembly of the first rocker arm took a few tries to get things lined up using the supplied shims. I think I have it set appropriately as far as the shims on the rocker. I then added the stacked shims included in the rocker kit, and slid in my adjustable pushrod to start testing.

I could not find any decent reference that shows how to do this. So I'll explain I did it, and hopefully someone will pipe up on if that was right or wrong.

Pushrod is obviously short here. So I just turned the adjuster out until it met the rocker arm, then I tightened down the adjuster nut.

Then I rotated the crank a few times, and started checking the angle of the adjuster on the valve.

All the way out

Approximately half way

Full lift

So, that's where I sit now. I'm going to try and do some searching to find a decent how to.

[krs.br79]

So I literally spent all day working on this engine...

I am pretty sure I have the geometry as good as I can get it. I went upa bunch of shims, down a bunch of shims, side to side, all over, and settled with what looked good throughout the range.

So, with all that said and done, my stock pushrods fit, with enough room to adjust down to the correct .006".

So, first question, assuming I did this correct, will my stock pushrods work, or do I need to look at going with a heavier duty pushrod?

Once I had the geometry figured out, I tore everything back down to the shortblock and started the final assembly over.

-I rechecked my piston ring gaps.
-lightly oiled the rings and cylinders
-Used Curil T on the cylinder bases and shims
-Installed the pushrod tubes with the seam up
-Torqued everything to spec, stopping at 18ft lbs on the head studs
-Test fit most of all the tin, and fought with the damn thermostat rod for probably an hour. Finally I realized that the casting fins needed to be removed on the correct slot in the cylinder head. I dang near had to scrap the rod, because I thought I bent it up. But it looks like it works and is in spec for the flaps.
-installed spark plugs... How do you gap these plugs with the 3 prongs?
-Cleaned and installed the pedestal
-Cleaned and installed the fuel pump
-messed with the tin some more
-and then some more

[modok]

Hmmm, so you ended up back at stock length pushrods???

Stock pushrods can be used on some Hp builds, and they can be shortened or even lengthened a bit...........BUT, with that cam AND ratio rockers I would not do it. Get some stronger ones. Manton thinwalls, or Smith brothers or CB's new HD aluminum ones

If stock length is perfect then cool, I think you can just order stock length ones and that's one less thing to worry about.

plugs should already be at a good gap. What do they measure? .030 or .035.....would be fine IMO.
Sposedly the spark chooses the easiest path so .005 wider than usual should still work ok

[krs.br79]