2054cc Build

earthquake · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 3:15 pm Post subject:

Are you building a 1904 or a 2054?
74mm x 94mm = 2054
_________________
74 CLASS 11 LOOK-A-LIKE
69 DUNE BUGGY
79 INTERNATIONAL SCOUT II
05 SCION XB SERIES RELEASE 2[#437]
95 Chevy C3500 dually
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Link to Kelly J. Nolte 3/20/53 - 11/6/08
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krs.br79 · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 3:48 pm Post subject:

smitty24 · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 3:59 pm Post subject:

Hey bro, I just wrote something on the other thread. Anyhow, I have done both a 1904 as well as a 2054. I used very similar parts...and think that the 94s actually run a hair warmer than the 90.5, but it is marginal and isn't enough to matter. I have been pleased with both...but the 94s give better top end. I get good mileage with both. Both are excellent motors...but I came to the conclusion: next time, I will do the 2276. Same cost and same issues getting it built.

1904 was actually faster than the 2054! 1904 had Web 86 b with 1:4s, 9.4:1 CR, light fly, DRD L5, 15/8 merged, Spanish Weber 40s with 32 vents.

2054 is the same but with Engle 120 and 1:25s, HPMX 44s with 34 vents. Next time, I will do the Web 86b and ratios again! Very pleased with that cam. The Web cam and ratio rockers can outdo the Engle setup. I won't use Engle again.

krs.br79 · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:14 pm Post subject:

smitty24 · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:22 pm Post subject:

you wanted to reuse that Vintage Speed exhaust right? Those are pretty expensive and look nice! Isn't that unit rated for 120-140 hp?

krs.br79 · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:28 pm Post subject:

theDrew · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:34 pm Post subject:

Bajaman65 · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 6:40 pm Post subject:

'Some is Good' - 'More is Better' - and 'To Much is Just Right' that seems to be the thinking around here. Laughing

theDrew · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 6:41 pm Post subject:

krs.br79 · Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 7:39 pm Post subject:

krs.br79 · Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2015 8:55 pm Post subject:

I removed the engine today, and striped it down to the long block. Things came out pretty easy, a lot easier than I expected.

A few more questions I have.

I'm looking at a fuel pressure regulator, and fuel pressure gauge. I guess I didn't really think of this one until I started to look into fuel line routing for the carbs. Beneficial, or no?

I'm looking at this regulator, anyone hear anything bad about it? The Quick Fuel 30-804.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Or would the Holley be better?

Both are about the same price.

Liquid filled gauges are plentiful, so I should be good on finding one if needed.

Next, while my current engine is a 1600 from a 74 Bug, the original install retained the NON-Doghouse oil cooler setup. Would it be recommended to changeover? This was definitely not an expense I planned for, so this might be a hindrance tracking stuff down. Not to mention I do not really want to mess with decklid vents, or standoffs....

Any issues re-using the headstuds? I could not find anywhere saying I shouldn't, or any measurements to check them.

What should be done with the vent tube, that goes from the oil filler neck to the old airfilter? Do I just vent that into the atmosphere now?

stan_tichomirov · Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 9:26 am Post subject:

Are you going to be running the stock fuel pump, or an electric one?

I've had the Holley on 2 Beetles. I also run electric pumps. I had a mechanical pump on my current Beetle at first and while chasing some weird fuel delivery issues replaced it with the electric one. There are less fuel lines in the engine bay with the electric pump -- I like that -- and you don't have the possibility of fuel leaking into the case. I don't have a gauge. Both of those regulators look like they'd mount the same, I put mine in the middle of the shroud. I use some yellow teflon tape on the threads, the one designed for gas lines.

IMO, you want the shroud/fan setup that came stock on the 1600 dual-port. What shroud do you have, can you post pictures?

Headstuds should be fine to reuse.

I vent my neck filler tube to atmosphere, have not had issues. I used to have it plumbed into air cleaner of right side carb when I was running Kadrons, but atmosphere works fine now as-is.

Stan
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Aircooled.net
Jansen Enterprise
My 1835cc build
My budget 2276 build

krs.br79 · Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 3:41 pm Post subject:

Thanks for those pictures, that helps a lot. I had planned on keeping the stock mechanical pump, unless a changeover to the electric pump was warranted. I'll probably pick up the Holley regulator to have it on hand in case the pressure isn't appropriate.

Here's my shroud.

krs.br79 · Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:17 pm Post subject:

Well, I disassembled the engine all the way today. Again, pretty straight forward process, but took longer than I expected. Probably due to me taking it slow, and taking pictures for assembly if needed.

The heads look like they were either brand new, or nicely refurbished when this 1600 was put together. The crank is a 4 dowel crank, and I'm not sure if the rods were OEM or not. Pistons looked to be in great shape as well as the cam and lifters. This would have had to been a new camshaft upon being rebuilt. The camgear is riveted on, so I will be ordering a new gear with the rest of the new parts. The casesavers look to be in great shape, and no signs of them pulling out.

The pushrods were aluminum, is this how they came stock?

Is there anything to look for on the distributor pinion gear for wear? I did not order a new one with the crankshaft gears, is it beneficial to do so?

Do crankshafts typically come with new dowel pins, or will these need to be ordered separate?

stan_tichomirov · Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 10:17 pm Post subject:

That looks to be in good shape. Those look like stock rods, stock pushrods are aluminum.

Stan
_________________
Aircooled.net
Jansen Enterprise
My 1835cc build
My budget 2276 build

krs.br79 · Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 4:24 pm Post subject:

Parts are starting to trickle in...

Gene Berg oil pump and flow kit
Holly pressure regulator
Mallory liquid filled pressure gauge
New oil strainer cover
New engine bay seals

And that is one big oil filter that came with the kit...

Sounds like the bulk of everything from ACN will be ready in about 2 weeks. I'm shipping my case out tomorrow for the required machine work, and that sounds like it's roughly a 1 week turnaround. Slowly...

mark tucker · Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 7:46 am Post subject:

yes get a gear,the last i got I think were about $14-17 , also get a racer spacer to replacethe split ring behind the brass gear.($9-12)

krs.br79 · Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 9:18 am Post subject:

krs.br79 · Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 7:14 am Post subject:

So I stopped in to check on the parts ordering timeline, and I was asked if I needed anything else done to the heads while they were being machined for the 94's. It was in regards to what deck height I would be running, or compression I needed.

I was under the impression I would need to check my deck height with the shortblock assembled, and mounting the p&c's then adjusting as necessary from there.

Am I correct in that assumption, and having extra machining done on the heads would be needed to really get into bigger adjustments outside of what I need?

Thanks

stan_tichomirov · Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 7:24 am Post subject:

What head casting are they, 040? There is a step in the chambers, read about it, many choose to have the step machined out. Without the step those chambers may be around 53cc, but you'd have to check.

Stan
_________________
Aircooled.net
Jansen Enterprise
My 1835cc build
My budget 2276 build


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