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Ecotec swap, 2wd to Syncro conversion & camper build
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DAV!D
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 2:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hit the pick & pull junkyard today and picked up a few random things I needed. One of which was the fuel pump that I'm going to use.

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It's a inline fuel pump that was used in a lot of late 80's early 90's Ford's with the EFI system (e2000 electric fuel pump). I choose this one because it's confirmed to work with the ecotec and it has a threaded outlet.

This allows me to remove the stock ford fitting and adapt my 6AN fittings which will let me run stainless fuel lines from the pump all the way to the fuel rail. This means all fuel lines inside the engine compartment will be stainless steel making the only rubber fuel lines being that which comes from the tank to the fuel filter and the evap system.

I'm going to make all my fuel lines tomorrow and likely rig up a temp solution to attach my lines to the fuel rail as I hope to test fire the engine tomorrow!
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DAV!D
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IT RUNS!!!

Keeping with my schedule of starting the motor today, I got the crash course on how to make stainless steel fuel lines and sorted out a very Jerry rigged set up in order to test the engine.

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The fuel pump was hanging out the back of the van with a feeder hose and return line into a 5 gal gas can. I patched together a few lines to power the fuel pump & ignition then used a hand held starter switch to crank it over..

The engine fired up all most instantly, but I need to adjust my fuel pressure as it seems to starve from fuel. I didn't adjust the pressure regulator at all due to me breaking the supplied gauge that came with it.. (seems the gauge was made in China and my American torque by feel was a bit more than the Chinese called for.. Confused

Regardless it runs and I'll adjust the fuel pressure tomorrow, before I start my dis-assembly. Good news is I'm on schedule to start pulling the motor from the 2wd by the weekend, meaning sometime next week I will likely have the engine and syncro transaxle swapped to the other van.
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DAV!D
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Continuing on..to Phase two..

Yesterday, I played with the engine a bit more but I realized there was an issue with the program on my ECU, so I had to box it up and send it back to the shop which did my harness. That's my only big snag so far and I hope it doesn't cause me to delay my swap to the 2wd body. (I won't start tearing down the 2wd until I know the ECU is on the way back)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Regardless the engine starts, runs and sounds good and the programming issue is nothing major. With that, I pulled the engine back out to move on to phase 2 of my swap. The prep for the final engine/syncro trans install in my 2wd body.

Today, I started pulling things off the Syncro body that I'll need for the swap and doing various measurements. I also built the drivers side transaxle bracket which will be welded to the 2wd cross-member.

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It's just a very simple flat plate of steel that the Syncro trasaxle mount will bolt onto. I idea is I drilled out the mounting holes on the plate then welded nuts to the back of the plate. I will then drill holes in the cross-member that are big enough for the nuts to sit inside then I will weld the entire plate to the cross-member.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The welds on the nuts look horrible, but they hold and once the plate is welded to the cross-member no one will ever see them again.. Laughing

The passenger's side mounting plate will be a bit more difficult as it sits in a bend of the cross-member so I'll have to shape the steel to fit. However it will be made using the same idea of welding nuts to the back side then welding the plate to the cross-member.
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DAV!D
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting real close to having everything prepped for the actual swap, but I do have a question.

Being I'm just doing the syncro transaxle & motor swap at this time, do I need to do anything with the gear shifter? I've never messed with the gear shifter on these vans before, I know it's routed different as far as the 2wd vs the 4wd but will the 2wd shifter function on the syncro transaxle until I do the front half of the swap?
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DAV!D wrote:
I'm getting real close to having everything prepped for the actual swap, but I do have a question.

Being I'm just doing the syncro transaxle & motor swap at this time, do I need to do anything with the gear shifter? I've never messed with the gear shifter on these vans before, I know it's routed different as far as the 2wd vs the 4wd but will the 2wd shifter function on the syncro transaxle until I do the front half of the swap?


That depends upon whether the centerline or driveline height has been changed...same as any conversion for a Vanagon.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would guess you need the last section of shift rod from the syncro attached to the 2wd shift rod at the adjustment clamp. You might also need the shift box from the syncro. At one point the two wheel drive Vanagons did have the lockout for the 5 speed.

And I had mentioned early on. You need to maintain the angle of the engine and transmission relative to level for both driveline angles and in this case your shift rod.
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DAV!D
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

insyncro wrote:

That depends upon whether the centerline or driveline height has been changed...same as any conversion for a Vanagon.


That makes sense, I didn't think about the difference in height.


rsxsr wrote:
I would guess you need the last section of shift rod from the syncro attached to the 2wd shift rod at the adjustment clamp. You might also need the shift box from the syncro. At one point the two wheel drive Vanagons did have the lockout for the 5 speed.

And I had mentioned early on. You need to maintain the angle of the engine and transmission relative to level for both driveline angles and in this case your shift rod.


I made sure all the angles were correct when I built my mounts, but if I run into problems I have the ability to adjust a bit. I just wasn't sure if I could use the stock 2wd shifter or not, but I wasn't thinking of the trans being a bit lower. I think I'll just go ahead and swap it all out, I was just trying to save a bit of work for now.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It makes sense since you have all of the syncro shifter parts to transplant them. I was wondering why you weren't using all the parts. Takes no more than a half hour to swap it all over. Should be straight forward.
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DAV!D
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2015 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
It makes sense since you have all of the syncro shifter parts to transplant them. I was wondering why you weren't using all the parts. Takes no more than a half hour to swap it all over. Should be straight forward.


The shifter shaft from the Syncro is very rusty and much of it is fused together with the rust. The 2wd one still has factory paint on it.. (Oh the differences of out west van vs New England van.. Smile

I started to pull everything, but instead ended up just pulling the back half of the shaft from the Syncro. After looking them over the back of the shifter rods are obviously different with the Syncro shaft dropping down more but from what I can see the fronts look the same.

I ended up pulling the rear half of the syncro shaft off and hopefully I can get by with just that. I can't see how the very front half of the 2wd rod is shaped due to the gas tank, however if I need the entire mechanism from the syncro I'll just pull the rest of it at that point.

I also cut the gas filler out of the Syncro yesterday and got word that my ECU was also shipped back yesterday, so as long as I can get help moving the Syncro body out of the garage, I'll start prepping the 2wd tomorrow. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's been a few days of no updates, but I've still been plugging along. I had a day of no power due to an electrical outage and I piddled around a bit waiting for my ECU to get back. It showed up yesterday so I started prepping the 2wd.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I cut the gas tank filler out of the Syncro a few days ago and toyed with a few ways of doing it. I ended up stripping the sheet metal off the box and just cut a hole in the 2wd body.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I opted to mount the box behind the hole with tac welds, this way I didn't have to do a bunch of grinding on sheet metal welds.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Doing it this way, all the spot welds are covered up with the plastic cover. It just don't have the "factory" recessed area around the plastic. IMO it looks better this way..

I also dropped the motor and transaxle from the 2wd today. It's now off the road till I'm done.. The only snag I ran into, is some bone head stripped out 2 of the CV bolts on the drivers side and 1 on the passenger's side. I'm going to have to get those out so I can rebuild the CV's.

Tomorrow I'll start cleaning everything up and then coating the hard to get to spots with POR 15. I'm undecided if I will do all the engine compartment with POR 15 (black) or leave the factory paint.

Thursday is mount the gas tank & weld in my transmission mounting plates day. If all goes well I'm hoping to install the engine trans on Friday having it running sometime over the weekend meeting my Feb 1st goal..

(ok I will have to take it to the exhaust shop to have my pipe bent, not sure how long that will take)
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats on your progress in Florida.

Just a note for others reading this thread, because someone in Cali asked me.

The Ecotec is NOT a California smog legal motor conversion for a Vanagon.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DAV!D wrote:


I ended up pulling the rear half of the syncro shaft off and hopefully I can get by with just that.


It'll work, that's what I did with mine.

Robyn
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jon_slider wrote:
Congrats on your progress in Florida.

Just a note for others reading this thread, because someone in Cali asked me.

The Ecotec is NOT a California smog legal motor conversion for a Vanagon.


That doesn't mean it can't happen or they could just register their van in South Dakota bypassing Cali smog laws all together.. Laughing

SD makes it very easy to have tags for out of state residents. They are a very full time RV friendly state as well.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I mentioned yesterday, the engine was dropped but I had a pesky clutch hose which was holding it back.

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Well this morning I managed to get everything undone. I had to use my cut off saw to cut one of the bolts lose on the slave cylinder, but it's all out now.

I also had trouble yesterday with 3 of the CV bolts.. Some yahoo had stripped them out. Luckily I was able to hammer a star head allen socket into each one and all 3 came out with just a slight amount of struggle. For the life of me I can't understand how someone managed to strip them.. They were tight, but not that tight..

I then proceeded to start cleaning things up in the engine compartment and prep the gas tank area..

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I managed to get everything nice and spiffy looking. There was a ton of "road" dust all over the place. It was caked on everywhere there was a flat surface but it was clean dirt, so it all came out pretty easily with a screw driver, wire brush and shop vac..

I did come across an issue with the dust.. The rear sections of the frame rails are absolutely filled with this dust. I can't imagine how many years it's been building up but it's all very dry so it's not causing rust at this point, but the frame rails are probably halfway filled up with it.. How can I get this out?

Anyway.. forging on..

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I prepped and painted all the hard to get to spots in the gas tank area with POR15. Satin Black was all the local dealer had in stock, so I went with that. He told me if it gets on you, you have about 15 mins to get it off with lacquer thinner and I think he was right..

I suited up real well and wore gloves, but still some how managed to get a few drops on my arms which wont come off!!! Laughing

I was worried a bit as I started this morning, if I'd keep on my self imposed schedule, it may not look like a lot, but that was a lot of work in those pictures.. I'm glad to say that tomorrow is still a go for gas tank mounting and tac welding in the tras-axle mounts.

While I've had some minor obstacles, so far they have been overcome with out too many problems.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my experience everything takes longer than you imagine. I plan my Saturdays and am happy if I get 2/3rds accomplished of what I planned for the day.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Our skin is porous, that paint will stay put for awhile Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rsxsr wrote:
In my experience everything takes longer than you imagine. I plan my Saturdays and am happy if I get 2/3rds accomplished of what I planned for the day.

Man, I'm happy with 1/3.


I though the POR15 required a rusty surface to hold? It certainly worked well on a surface rust iron block I painted recently.
I am wondering what approach to take on my engine compartment while the engine is out. Everything from a slight touch up to a complete coating and insulate.

PS - kudos on your work and thanks for documenting!
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't you need to weld the Syncro fuel tank shelf right where you just POR15ed?
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the shift rod was rusty, the tank support was probably nonexistent.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't something have to go there in its place?
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