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1966 Type 3 Squareback Build Thread
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lakedawgs
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 7:15 pm    Post subject: 1966 Type 3 Squareback Build Thread Reply with quote

OK, here goes.
My 12 year old son and I just bought a '66 Squareback last weekend. Just put it in the garage today. This thread will document the restoration.

She is in pretty good shape with not a ton of rust and in running condition, a steal at $1000 in my opinion. Looks like the only modifications have been are a set of Empi dual carbs (I know they are hated, deal with it, they won't be changed out any time soon), and a 12 volt starter and 12 volt battery added. Otherwise, she is pretty stock. Has been repainted terribly, but that is about it.

Today we removed the seats and carpet. In the next day or two we will vacuum out, remove all door and side panels and continue.
lakedawgs
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Last edited by lakedawgs on Sun Jan 11, 2015 8:15 pm; edited 1 time in total
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type3nut64
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool man. My 13 year old son just bought his first vw a while back. 69 squareback.

Yours looks in good shape.
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squaretobehip
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you going to go back to Baltic? It's a beautiful color. Here's mine:

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1963 Squareback - Pearl White
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lakedawgs
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leaning toward Baltic, yes, very cool color.
That will be a while though.
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68vwfasty
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice find at a good price. Good luck on the restoration and enjoy time with your son.
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papichuito
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice, what part in Indiana. Close to Kentucky?
I got a 65 Notchback, a 69 Fastback and a 67 Type1
I live near Fort Knox in Radcliff
PM me if you got any questions
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fuhq64
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice, I'm in SW Ohio. Nice to see some Type 3's in the area that arent completely rusted out
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Tram
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lakedawgs wrote:
Leaning toward Baltic, yes, very cool color.
That will be a while though.


Hmmmm... I think you should go all out and build an Azure car, then...
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lakedawgs
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have not had time to do much in the last few days. Has been very cold here. I have been cleaning the floor pans with a wire wheel.
I did take a video of the motor running. While I would really like to give it a nice tune up and be able to drive it a bit (after changing fuel lines front to back and couple of other things). Pulling the motor now is also a consideration.

http://tinyurl.com/knya448

More to come as time permits.
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squaretobehip
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet!
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1963 Squareback - Pearl White
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Sqrbckguy38
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't sound too bad, maybe they are out of sync. Watched it like the times, and I could be wrong but the right carb seams like it is opening first. The carbs aren't bad, just not usually as unique or as clean sounding add the efi. But that's just my opinion.
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Rome
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
the right carb seams like it is opening first

I agree. At the third, prolonged rev you can see that the right down-rod is moving, and the left one barely does. Even before you start the engine, you can see that the short arms that come rearwards off the cross-bar are at different angles; the left one is tilted higher than the right one. To run smoothly, those short arms should be at the same upward angle when viewed from the side. The length of the thin down-rods that connect those arms and the carb throttle arms should also be adjusted so they are equal. The throttle arm extenders that come rearwards off the arms appear to be properly tight, but that's another item to check to make sure they really are. Any looseness there can also contribute to a carb lagging the other.

Wishing you enjoyment with its refurbishment. I was 14 when my dad and I bought my first car; a '60 Beetle. He taught me alot of basic mechanical work on it. Kept my interest up in VWs for 40 years after that.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rome wrote:
Quote:
the right carb seams like it is opening first

I agree. At the third, prolonged rev you can see that the right down-rod is moving, and the left one barely does. Even before you start the engine, you can see that the short arms that come rearwards off the cross-bar are at different angles; the left one is tilted higher than the right one. To run smoothly, those short arms should be at the same upward angle when viewed from the side. The length of the thin down-rods that connect those arms and the carb throttle arms should also be adjusted so they are equal. The throttle arm extenders that come rearwards off the arms appear to be properly tight, but that's another item to check to make sure they really are. Any looseness there can also contribute to a carb lagging the other.

Wishing you enjoyment with its refurbishment. I was 14 when my dad and I bought my first car; a '60 Beetle. He taught me alot of basic mechanical work on it. Kept my interest up in VWs for 40 years after that.


Here's a link to getting the carbs dialed in.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/t3dualcarbtuning/
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lakedawgs
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, I did not notice that. One of the nuts on the left carb linkage is loose. I will tighten that and go over all the others then move on to tuning with the guide Bobnotch posted.
Thanks much!!
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lakedawgs
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have not had time to do much as of late but I did run the motor for 20 minutes for so on a couple of different occasions and definitely have a couple of oil leaks, seemingly from the push rod tubes, but not sure.

In light of this I pulled the motor today. I figured, this is a long term project and a motor rebuild is in the plan so why wait.

Motor came out easily with no problems, took about 30 minutes.
Not really sure what direction to take, figure once I get the fan, tin, carbs and heads off I will put in on my bench and work on splitting the case.

I have the Bentley manual but any advice or cautions would be appreciated.
Thanks
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Air-Cooled Head
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lakedawgs wrote:
figure once I get the fan, tin, carbs and heads off I will put in on my bench and work on splitting the case.

I have the Bentley manual but any advice or cautions would be appreciated.
Thanks


Why do you want to split the case? Do you have some suspicion that the bottom end is bad? You can spend a lot of time & money on just the engine. Unlike other areas where you can do some electrical work until you're tired of it and do some suspension until you're tired of it and do some bodywork, I've found that once you tear into an engine rebuild, it's best to focus on only that until it's done. But that's just me. And being a newbie makes it worse; you may not have everything you need, and have to wait for mail-order to arrive, maybe multiple times. Meanwhile your engines guts sit around getting dusty, rusty, and lost. (Ask how I know. Embarassed )
As a newbie, I'd suggest do compression test, maybe leak-down test, just to get an idea of the engines condition. Test end-play. In other words; Don't just split the case cause it seems like a fun new adventure; Have a damned good reason.
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lakedawgs
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spoke too soon. My plan is to only go through the top end. Don't want to split case if I don't need to unnecessarily.

I have removed the carbs, exhaust, engine tin and generator. Can I perform a compression test when the unit is out of the car? Knowing I pulled the motor too early I am thinking of putting it back in, as is, and doing a compression test, been thinking about this for a couple of days. I hate to do that but don't think I can do the test out of the car.

Have never done a leak test but just read up on it. Does this tell the condition of the rings?

I have rebuilt two VW motors in the past but it has been 20+ years, definitely back to newbie status!
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Air-Cooled Head
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lakedawgs wrote:
I spoke too soon. My plan is to only go through the top end. Don't want to split case if I don't need to unnecessarily.

I have removed the carbs, exhaust, engine tin and generator. Can I perform a compression test when the unit is out of the car? Knowing I pulled the motor too early I am thinking of putting it back in, as is, and doing a compression test, been thinking about this for a couple of days. I hate to do that but don't think I can do the test out of the car.

Have never done a leak test but just read up on it. Does this tell the condition of the rings?

I have rebuilt two VW motors in the past but it has been 20+ years, definitely back to newbie status!


Putting the go-box back in for compression testing is a PITA, but,,,, unless you have a kit where you can start it on the floor/stand.

Yes. Both tests are similar and indicate the condition of your rings, or rather the sealing power of your rings & valves.
Somewhere here on the Samba are complete instructions on performing both.
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jaransonT3
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a fun project. You and your son will learn alot.

You only need to be able to turn the engine over rapidly to do a compression test, not actually start it. An alternative to putting the engine back in he car would be to take the transaxle or the transaxle and entire rear subframe out and then bolt the transaxle and engine back together and hook up a battery to the starter to spin it over. It would give you a chance to clean up the transaxle and give it a once over.
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jaransonT3
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would also recommend getting rid of the 4-tip Monza exhaust. Terrible exhaust system for a Type 3 or just about any car for that matter. Very restrictive and a real shin buster.
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