| Author |
Message |
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
 Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 7:36 am Post subject: |
 |
|
| jaransonT3 wrote: |
| I would also recommend getting rid of the 4-tip Monza exhaust. Terrible exhaust system for a Type 3 or just about any car for that matter. Very restrictive and a real shin buster. |
X2 on replacing the muffler. Those things are definitely hard on the shins.
Also, the link I gave above, was for stock Solex carbs, and not the Weber copies you currently have on the engine. I'll see about digging up a link for those carbs, but I think CB Performance and or Air Cooled.net both have some tuning info on them.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
lakedawgs
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 8:18 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks Bobnotch, that carb info would be great.
I will research a better muffler for the future. If I rebuild the motor it will be fairly mild going for fuel economy and longevity. Not looking for anything hot or fancy. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lakedawgs
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 6:34 pm Post subject: Problem splitting the case |
|
|
I have split the case with no problem but cannot pull the half case apart. It slides up about 1+ inch and stops. Feels like something in the upper part of the case is stopping it.
Thinking I might know what I did wrong but not sure how to fix it.
When trying to separate the case halves I let the lifters fall from the top half. I have since flipped the motor and to other side lifters have fallen into the motor case. I'm guessing this might be my problem in separating the halves now. Did not thing letting them fall was a big deal, but now I am regretting that decision. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
W1K1
Samba Member
Joined: March 04, 2004
Posts: 4921
Location: Southern AB
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lakedawgs
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Oil pump is out, yes. And all bolt/nuts are off.
Now, all lifters are out, case is about 2.5" apart. Definitely past all of the short bolts.
Stupid question maybe, does the flywheel have to be off to split the case halves? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:36 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| lakedawgs wrote: |
Oil pump is out, yes. And all bolt/nuts are off.
Now, all lifters are out, case is about 2.5" apart. Definitely past all of the short bolts.
Stupid question maybe, does the flywheel have to be off to split the case halves? |
No, but it makes it easier to seperate the crank from the flywheel. 
Look to see if you have a con rod catching on 1 of the cylinder openings.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lakedawgs
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 5:34 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Bobnotch wrote: |
Look to see if you have a con rod catching on 1 of the cylinder openings. |
Interesting, I will check tonight, can't automatically discount anything at this point. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lakedawgs
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 6:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
I guy on a different forum said I have to remove the pistons before I can fully split the case. I don't have my manual here at work but I don't know how I missed that if that is the case.
Feeling like a dumbass but at least I know what the problem is now. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7549
Location: Santa Cruz
|
| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:06 am Post subject: |
|
|
Don't feel bad about that one.
I did that once.
It's not totally obvious unless you look at it... 
_________________
Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lakedawgs
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:51 am Post subject: |
|
|
This is not the first case I have split but it has been 20+ years.
What bothers me is that I read Bentley before I did the procedure. Need to go back and see where I missed it.
Live and learn.
Need to read twice and turn a wrench once! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
| Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 9:10 am Post subject: |
|
|
| lakedawgs wrote: |
I guy on a different forum said I have to remove the pistons before I can fully split the case. I don't have my manual here at work but I don't know how I missed that if that is the case.
Feeling like a dumbass but at least I know what the problem is now. |
Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the piston pin clips, then use a 3/8ths socket on an extension with a hammer to drive the pins out. If you spin the crank, you can get 1 piston higher than the other to drive the pin out.
Hey, that happens every now and then. I literally destroyed a piston, trying to seperate a case once, but, that was because the crank had rusted/siezed in place (wouldn't spin). I wasn't too worried about, as I planned on replacing them. Sometimes you do what you have to, to get things apart. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lakedawgs
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 6:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
The motor is apart and I am working on cleaning it up. Once done I will decide what needs to be replaced. After the case is clean I will send it out to get measured and bored if needed.
Feel like I am running in circles a bit on this car. Need to develop a plan of attack.
Thinking I should remove all fenders and doors and store them. Then I can start working on the rust. Eventually I will lift body off frame and replace rockers and more rust repair. Then I will remove the front beam to rebuild. Next will be brakes, go through the wiring, etc. The interior and trim will come much later. The motor can be an ongoing side project.
Do not feel like I am getting much done but it is damn cold here and I guess I should realize that I am only a couple of months in to this 2-3 year plan.... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
|
| Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 9:20 am Post subject: |
|
|
| lakedawgs wrote: |
The motor is apart and I am working on cleaning it up. Once done I will decide what needs to be replaced. After the case is clean I will send it out to get measured and bored if needed.
Feel like I am running in circles a bit on this car. Need to develop a plan of attack.
Thinking I should remove all fenders and doors and store them. Then I can start working on the rust. Eventually I will lift body off frame and replace rockers and more rust repair. Then I will remove the front beam to rebuild. Next will be brakes, go through the wiring, etc. The interior and trim will come much later. The motor can be an ongoing side project.
Do not feel like I am getting much done but it is damn cold here and I guess I should realize that I am only a couple of months in to this 2-3 year plan.... |
If you're sending the case out for any machining, have them install case savers while they have it (you'll need to pull the head studs first).
When I built the engine for my 71 Notch, I sent the case out in late October/November, and got it back in late December (sent it to Rimco). I had them do an align bore, and install case savers. That's it. Right after I recieved it, I ordered up the bearings, CW crank, rebuilt rods, gasket kit, new push rod tubes, 26mm shadek oil pump, and a Cofap/Mahle piston and cylinders kit. I ordered that up thru Kustom 1 Warehouse as a "rebuild kit", as the parts were cheaper together as a kit, than they were seperately. I already had the heads done (they got dropped off and return shipped before the case went out), so they were ready when I was. Then in mid to late Febuary, I built the engine at my leisure. It was more of a case of spending the weekend not doing anything else but engine assembly, with no other distractions going on. I try to do that whenever I build an engine, otherwise you run into problems of forgetting something.
I had already done all the rust repair, paint and body work, chassis rebuild (new floor pans, beam install, everything sandblasted and painted) and interior work. I even installed a used engine to get some developement miles on the car itself before installing the new engine (I wanted to drive the car  ).
The key, is to send out what you can't/or don't want to do yourself out first, as those items will be what holds you up later on. Like sending the calipers and master cylinder out for rebuilding, while your currently doing rust repair. You won't miss those items, as the car sits in the shop, and after they come back, they're ready for install.  Same with ordering up the seals, as you're going to have a week of shipping (from the west coast), so you might want to get them there while doing other stuff. If you have pop out windows, and plan on keeping them, then you'll want those seals before you take them apart. You might want to get a screw kit, and a 3mm tap too, as you'll probably need them both. 
If you look at the 2 links in my signature, you'll see how I attack a car. I start with rust repair first, then bodywork, then move on to mechanical work, then interior work, and finally engine work. Sometimes I'll mix some mechanical work in (brakes and such), while I've got the body off, as it's easier to access some stuff while the body is off.
I guess it really depends on whether your replacing the floor pans, as to whether or not to pull the body to do rocker/heater channel work. I prefer to do them on the car myself, as I can line everything up while it's in place. Otherwise you run into the bolt holes being off, or a lip of the pan (or body) being in the way when you do your test fit. I prefer to know that sooner, rather than later. This is why I suggested (in your other thread) to look at what others have done, and try and learn from them. Remember, on our cars, somebody has probably already done it, and a search of the forum will yield some sort of result.
I hope this helps.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Donnie strickland
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
|
| Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 9:55 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Bobnotch wrote: |
If you're sending the case out for any machining, have them install case savers while they have it (you'll need to pull the head studs first).
When I built the engine for my 71 Notch, I sent the case out in late October/November, and got it back in late December (sent it to Rimco). I had them do an align bore, and install case savers. That's it. Right after I recieved it, I ordered up the bearings, CW crank, rebuilt rods, gasket kit, new push rod tubes, 26mm shadek oil pump, and a Cofap/Mahle piston and cylinders kit. I ordered that up thru Kustom 1 Warehouse as a "rebuild kit", as the parts were cheaper together as a kit, than they were separately. I already had the heads done (they got dropped off and return shipped before the case went out), so they were ready when I was. Then in mid to late February, I built the engine at my leisure. It was more of a case of spending the weekend not doing anything else but engine assembly, with no other distractions going on. I try to do that whenever I build an engine, otherwise you run into problems of forgetting something.
I hope this helps. |
That's good information on the engine rebuild, Bob...I'll be traveling that road too, and it's good to know where to buy engine parts, etc. since I haven't bought any of those in a while. I will probably be using Rimco for machine work, and definitely getting case savers since a pulled head stud is what sent mine to the garage.
_________________
71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7549
Location: Santa Cruz
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 12:21 am Post subject: |
|
|
My strategy -
Take the entire car apart, and clean everything up.
Chrome to the chromers, aluminum to the polishers, drivetrain, tins, etc. to the powder-coaters, engine parts to the machine shop, fasteners to cad plate, etc.
Then,
After everything is sourced and shiny and back,
Have a bunch of friends, each with a part, run at each other at the same time.
BAM!
You got a car....
_________________
Bus Motor Build
What’s That Noise?!? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lakedawgs
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 5:46 am Post subject: |
|
|
OK, that is what I was thinking.
After a business trip I am about to take I will remove all fenders, hood, rear hatch and doors and start on body rust. That ought to keep me busy for a while. I will post pics as I start to make a mess!
THANKS |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lakedawgs
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 6:11 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Clatter, I think you would get a better fit if each person had a couple of beers first! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 7:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
I would put the engine back in to drive it more to see how the brakes/beam/lights etc work before ordering all new parts for them. Leave the doors & hatch on while doing your welding/bodywork if possible. You can replace the pans,heater channels,inner fenders with the body on the car.
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
lakedawgs
Samba Member
Joined: August 02, 2010
Posts: 79
Location: Indiana
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 8:16 am Post subject: |
|
|
I am guessing you mention leaving the doors and hatch on for structure.
After some comments I will likely not remove the body from the car. While I want to get the car right, I'm not looking for a 100 point car. I will decide if the body comes off down the road after most rust and rockers are repaired. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
