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ToughBug
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 4:47 pm    Post subject: Rusty east-coast car support group Reply with quote

Have an east coast car? Got rust? Do you buy PB Blaster, rust oleum, and sheet metal in bulk? Me too.

This week I found three new areas of rust and sheared off 3 of 6 spindle bolts and 2 of 6 bolts holding the engine chrome on. My new torquemeister didn't even budge the rear wheel nut. Actually broke a craftsman socketwrench on that one! And ran out of rust converter. The FedEx guy asked "so what is POR15 anyway? It's heavy." Gotta laugh.

Thought it might be helpful to share general strategies for beating the rust. Tools you really need. Strategies for finding and killing the rust, breaking things loose without, you know, actually breaking things. Even when to say when, and get professional help (in any sense of the word) or go shopping for a better chassis, body, etc.

What's your favorite tool against rust? Media blaster? Grinder? Sander? Acid? Base?

Bonus points for photos of your "most rusty" part.
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miller0358
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:19 pm    Post subject: rust Reply with quote

I always have the best luck on rusty bolts with PB Blaster and heat. If you take your time, works every time. Jeff
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toddb_67
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, it's not just you east coast guys! Laughing
I've battled my fair share of rust on my '71 convertible but the area that almost made me throw in the towel was this:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

which looked like this on the other side:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The best thing to do is cut it out, weld in good metal and treat with your favorite rust converter, I use POR-15 too.
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1970 Squareback "Savanna" (sold)
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1974 Karmann Ghia- current project, 1967cc engine. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=775207
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76VDubya
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A torch and penetrating oil work great for breaking things loose, as well a sharp tap with a hammer.

For cleaning surfaces and removing scale, a wire wheel, or roloc disc works great.

Rustoleum Rust Performer works great for converting and neutralizing rust.

Evapo-Rust is great for completely de-rusting parts.
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beetlenut
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some light surface rust on the tunnel bottom
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Typical rust in the forward rear wheel well/package tray area
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Some slight C-pillar "Death Foam" rust
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


PB Blaster and a torch if you can get it apart, cutting it out and replacing with solid steel if you can't.
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Wetstuff wrote:
... I spend more time shaking it than directing it?! I get a pretty decent blast for 8sec. then have to shake it again.
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My 74 Super rebuild thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6507104#6507104
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far rider Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ditto on just about everything said.
I'm not a fan of POR15. hasn't worked for me in the past. Ive been using Masterseries and prefer it
Cutting = mostly use a 4" grinder w/ metal cutting disc. A Dremel is very handy when fitting replacement pieces into place.
For frozen hinge pins I've had luck just soaking the area for a week or two. Give it a squirt of PB blaster and/or home brew of acetone and automatic transmission fluid several times a day (Im in no rush and I know my project has a while to go).
But of course heat and air hammer work well too.
Rust just brings another dimension of time, money and work to a restoration. It sucks.
Several years a go when bugs and buses were scattered all over the place I found a bug from Alabama. No rust. what a pleasure to turn every nut and bolt on that car with no issues.
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DWP
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For getting bolts off get a set of these
Craftsman 10 pc. Impact Grade Bolt-Out™ Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover
22 ReviewsDescriptionSpecifications

Description Item # 00952165000P Model # 52165

DWP
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ToughBug
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya'll are restoring my faith in my restoration! My rusty parts look just like yours. This really helps me in getting the right tools and products. Keep them coming!
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Weezle
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whose got a list of links to builds that required heater channel replavement? That's next on my list.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=604918&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=759868&highlight=
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67 Sunroof
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed. Looking at your pictures makes me feel much better about my bug.
Your post came along at a great time.
Gives me encouragement which I really needed!!
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toms64
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rust is the east coast "patina" Laughing Well I see I'm in good company! Tried the acetone tranny fluid mix on some 44 jeep parts. Works good but be patient....pb blaster is still the best I've used but I just couldn't stand the smell anymore when working indoors! Is it me or does that stuff smell like liquid mothballs??!! Shocked Shocked Shocked Has anyone tried the small panel saws like HF sells? My 64 bug is gonna need a front nose job and the panel saw looked good for that .....
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far rider Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 6:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weezle wrote:
Whose got a list of links to builds that required heater channel replavement? That's next on my list.


If you haven't already, Just do a search in this forum for "heater channel replacement", there's plenty.
I would suggest 1. Take plenty of measurements 2. Weld in temporary reinforcements before removing original channels
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76VDubya
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 11:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

toms64 wrote:
pb blaster is still the best I've used but I just couldn't stand the smell anymore when working indoors! Is it me or does that stuff smell like liquid mothballs??!! Shocked Shocked Shocked


That stuff is messy, and has a strong odor, but it works pretty good. Liquid Wrench (penetrating oil) smells almost exactly the same. Both give me a headache after using them. Wink
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Fahrbomb
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh i got rust.....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620660&sid=033e20b7a065a6353a774e56a1d38841
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theKbStockpiler
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whisky and denial work for me. Very Happy
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fahrbomb wrote:
oh i got rust.....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620660&sid=033e20b7a065a6353a774e56a1d38841


Don't take the body off the pan, at least for now. A wire wheel & a spot sand blaster will get it clean enough to see what needs patching. A grinder & sawzall will handle all the cutting/grinding. Make your own patches when possible.
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Fahrbomb
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info Mike Fisher.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Saw this patch panel on facebook & had to share it! Any Sheet Metal Shop can build them for you too. Idea
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1020456576...mp;theater
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

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Dr OnHolliday
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pick the response that is most useful to you:

1. Is this a 12-step group?
2. Why are you destroying the patina?
3. Why has no one advocated wadded newspaper and bondo?
(That's supposed to be humor. You'll some form of humor as you proceed)

I suppose you all know about Eastwood Co. As it turns out, the tools they sell are available from the actual manufacturers (or maybe Harbor Fright)...but if you are starting sheetmetal work may be educational to peruse their website. Its actually very inspiring to see what can be accomplished with a sandbag and mallets, or a shrinking disc...

Best of luck to you all.
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