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nogoodwithusernames
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Joined: November 10, 2014
Posts: 599
Location: CA, USA
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 Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 3:47 pm Post subject: '71 Squareback Refreshment "Project" |
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So recently (This morning) I purchased a 1 owner 71 squareback in fairly good shape. Runs, drives, stops but needs some interior and seals.
!!--The brake lights do not work! All the other lights do (blinkers, headlights, etc.) so I don't think its a ground in the rear light assembly. My next guess is bad switch at the master cylinder but I have no idea how to access it and my searches so far haven't helped.
And what is the second pull of the headlight switch for? It seems like it turns the headlights off when I pull it all the way out??
One for Tram or one of the other FI masters. When warming up the idle revs then goes back to normal repeatedly, after it is warmed up it runs great. Any ideas? Temp sensor, MAP?
Thanks Guys!
Last edited by nogoodwithusernames on Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:01 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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Donnie strickland
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Joined: December 21, 2009
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Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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1) Yes, the switches might be bad, but you can check them. There was info posted here recently, I can't remember which thread.
2) When you pull the headlight switch to the first position, the parking lights, tail lights and dash lights should come on, along with the green indicator on the fuel gauge. When you pull it to the second position, the headlights should come on, and the green indicator should go out. Sounds like someone has monkeyed with the wiring.
3) Your idle is set too high. It can be adjusted with the idle screw, but only after all other engine adjustments are correct. Find yourself a brown Bentley manual and study it. And post some pictures! 
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Donnie strickland
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nogoodwithusernames
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vwsplitvan
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Joined: April 11, 2008
Posts: 479
Location: UK
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| Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 6:01 pm Post subject: |
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Congrats on the car.
Its not going to help (that is the temp sensor)
Best to replace all the vac hoses as they look tired, and to be safe replace all the fuel lines.
The master cylinder is under front of car and will be hidden by a shield/cover attached by 2 bolts. You will see the brake switches on the master cylinder. It could be that the connection is dirty or the plug has come off.
The Bentley manual will be real helpful for you.
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Donnie strickland
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Joined: December 21, 2009
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Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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| nogoodwithusernames wrote: |
Thanks for the link that will help! But i'm not exactly sure how to get to the MC. This is my first type 3 so I am still getting used to everything.
Yep plan on ordering a bentley pretty soon!
Could this be the culprit for the idle fluctuation during warmup? (The loose wire that is)
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See that hex head nut with the screw in the center of it? That's your idle adjustment.
The fuel injection system cuts off the fuel if the RPMs get over 1250(?) with the throttle closed. When the RPMs fall, the fuel comes back on. This is what's causing your cycling idle.
There are many causes for a high idle, so read all you can on here. You might have a vacuum leak or a malfunctioning AAR.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback
Last edited by Donnie strickland on Sat Jan 17, 2015 6:12 am; edited 1 time in total |
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nogoodwithusernames
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nogoodwithusernames
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KTPhil 
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| Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2015 11:22 pm Post subject: |
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Look at the lower right area of this view of the front axle:
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nogoodwithusernames
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| Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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Alright so we have some progress, not a ton as there were some complications. But progress none-the-less.
First thing was to get the brake lights fixed, jacked up the car and was able to get to the M.C. and unplugged the wiring and ran the the test in the link above. Brake lights came on so we went and got some new switches and some brake pads while we were at it.
Got the new ones installed and were working on the calipers and the driver side one was having problems so we had to take it apart and clean it up before it would move back and forth properly. Had a heck of a time getting them back on the rotors 'cause the new pads were so thick. We had to loosen up all the bolts holding the halves together then tighten them down again after they were on the rotor.
One of the new switches was bad and leaked from the connectors so got another new one and got it put in.
The brakes now work great and the brake lights work! So I can drive it now and work on stuff as time permits.
-A small sample of the old brake fluid...
I still need to figure out why the front driver marker/blinker isn't working, I still think it's a bad ground somewhere.
Also the engine still revs at idle with temp sensor plugged in and even after I lowered the idle. Tomorrow I hope to have time to run through a basic engine test with valves and everything. I think I remember seeing a checklist of things to run through on the FI somewhere in the "continuing misadventures" thread but I'm not sure what page. Anyone remember?
-Here is a video of the engine running (maybe not yet, what video format do I need to convert it to?)
-And here is the vacuum hose that was getting tired. I'd say it was already asleep 
-And a general photo of the car for everyone.
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71 Squareback, 1.7l T4 w/ crank trigger fuel and spark
(Conversion thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=732508&highlight= or https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=151375&sid=f0542d44a322d290c29d6609fac7f215 )
74 914, 2.0L w/ D-Jet
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Donnie strickland
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Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 6:22 am Post subject: |
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Nice car! Yes, before doing anything to the FI system, the rest of your systems need to be right. This includes the charging system, as the FI needs 14 volts to operate correctly. The valves have to be .006" COLD, and the timing needs to be right on. The ignition system must be working perfectly as well; plug wires can look fine but can still be bad. You'll need to check your fuel pressure also.
The bottom line is, don't blame the FI system for anything until you are absolutely sure everything else is working perfectly. When you get your Bentley manual you'll have a most important tool.
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JeeJeeJason
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nogoodwithusernames
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| Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 8:42 am Post subject: |
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Sounds good as I know how to do a general tune already. I was planning/hoping to get it done today.
And I ordered the Bentley last night. I've got some inquiries out for some parts that I'll need too.
One thing yesterday we took off the passenger mirror since it was loose. Got the screws to the door tightened but discovered that the shaft from the mirror was stripped... Is it possible just to clean it up, re thread it and use a thread saver insert in the nut?
And where do you find the plastic vapor barrier (I think that is what it's called.) The passenger door panel is warped and beat up and the barrier behind it is gone.
For laughs I'll let you know that I already got a recommendation on the book of faces to switch to an 009
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71 Squareback, 1.7l T4 w/ crank trigger fuel and spark
(Conversion thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=732508&highlight= or https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=151375&sid=f0542d44a322d290c29d6609fac7f215 )
74 914, 2.0L w/ D-Jet
-Derek |
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Donnie strickland
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| Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 9:05 am Post subject: |
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A picture of the mirror would be helpful. For the plastic, I cut my own from heavy sheet plastic, which you can purchase at Home Depot, etc.
009...ugh... 
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Bobnotch
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:03 am Post subject: |
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| nogoodwithusernames wrote: |
Alright so we have some progress, not a ton as there were some complications. But progress none-the-less.
First thing was to get the brake lights fixed, jacked up the car and was able to get to the M.C. and unplugged the wiring and ran the the test in the link above. Brake lights came on so we went and got some new switches and some brake pads while we were at it.
Got the new ones installed and were working on the calipers and the driver side one was having problems so we had to take it apart and clean it up before it would move back and forth properly. Had a heck of a time getting them back on the rotors 'cause the new pads were so thick. We had to loosen up all the bolts holding the halves together then tighten them down again after they were on the rotor.
One of the new switches was bad and leaked from the connectors so got another new one and got it put in.
The brakes now work great and the brake lights work! So I can drive it now and work on stuff as time permits.
-A small sample of the old brake fluid...
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Going off that color fluid, I probably would have changed the front hoses too. I only say that, as it looks like there might be some rubber mixing in with it (the old fluid). Plus, if you had to split the calipers to get them back on, then the hoses are probably working on getting clogged. Just a heads up. 
The car looks nice, and mostly complete. At least it doesn't look like it's too many PO mods. 
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KTPhil
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| Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:12 am Post subject: |
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| Splitting up the caliper to get it on the disc worries me... you should be able to push the pistons back into the caliper with channel lock pliers far enough to get them on. I kindly suggest waiting for your Bentley to arrive before going rogue on the car. |
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Tram
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| Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:24 am Post subject: |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
| Splitting up the caliper to get it on the disc worries me... you should be able to push the pistons back into the caliper with channel lock pliers far enough to get them on. I kindly suggest waiting for your Bentley to arrive before going rogue on the car. |
Agree 150%
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JeeJeeJason
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| Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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| nogoodwithusernames wrote: |
And where do you find the plastic vapor barrier (I think that is what it's called.) The passenger door panel is warped and beat up and the barrier behind it is gone. |
You can use a heavy duty trash bag or just pick up some painters plastic from Home Depot and cut it to fit. When I did this I used caulking along the edge to get a good seal. While you're at it, it's a good time to put some sound deadener in there. |
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nogoodwithusernames
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| Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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Alright guys, here is a photo of the mirror as requested.
And as far as the brakes, it wasn't so much as the calipers were closing as the new pads were just generic and too thick (The first set I got were thinner but the holes were to close together). They were each about 1/4" thick not including the backing plate with the holes for the pins/guides. (That may be standard thickness for new ones but it didn't seem like it.) I did have the brake pistons all the way depressed before trying it. Everything was very close to fitting but needed less than half a mm to get it. They do work though with no problems so far.
I do plan on replacing all the soft hoses (fuel, brakes, and vacuum) once I get the manual (shipping Monday) so that I don't have to worry about anything from them.
Yeah it is almost completely original, so far I think all the problems have just been age related. Most of the PO hacks are backing up with the hatch open... back bumper dented in on one side, and a small indent in the front nose bit. The hardest to fix will be the back bumper since it crushed the mount a bit. There is also an orange wire that was cut running from under the dash to the engine compartment ending near the oil pressure sender? (The bit threaded into the oil cooler)
There is a hole in the pan behind the passenger seat that I'll need to patch but the rest of it seems quite solid.
Today I plan on doing a general engine tune up with checking valves, points, and timing. I don't want to touch any FI stuff till I've got the manual.
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71 Squareback, 1.7l T4 w/ crank trigger fuel and spark
(Conversion thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=732508&highlight= or https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=151375&sid=f0542d44a322d290c29d6609fac7f215 )
74 914, 2.0L w/ D-Jet
-Derek |
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nogoodwithusernames
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