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Urethane Beam Bushings vs. Stock
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Ian
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 12:31 am    Post subject: Urethane Beam Bushings vs. Stock Reply with quote

Hello everyone, pretty basic question here. I have a set of urethane beam bushings to replace the micarta bushings that were in a stock beam. I'm not narrowing the leaves at all so wondering what to do. When I bolt up the arm there is about a 2mm or more gap between the arm and the bushing. The stock grease seal fills this gap. Bushing is marked BP6527-101 and I purchased them in a set of four from widefive awhile ago. Can someone recommend a urethane bushing that will fill the gap between the arm and the beam? I need to buy a set. Thanks!

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VWsArent4Hippies
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you already have the stock trailing arm seals just cut the ends off the urethanes and run both. Then you don't have to buy anything..
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Fish
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've never heard any thing good about urethane parts. Maybe yours will work because they are encased within the tube and not exposed to the environment? Let us know how they hold up.

A quick search in the gallery found these .... granted they're all nose cone mounts so should that make a difference?

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Here's what was left of the transmission mounts. I've never seen stock mounts do this...

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Careful. There are more than 1 Mfr's of these mounts. This one lasted less than 24 hours. It came on a pretty blue and yellow wall card.

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Drop down homemade mount for my split... so you can run a syncro tranny!

( Nevermind the urethane mounts... now I know better!)

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This is why you don't use after market urethane mounts on your nose cone.
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campingbox Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWsArent4Hippies wrote:
If you already have the stock trailing arm seals just cut the ends off the urethanes and run both. Then you don't have to buy anything..


Are they a slip fit or a press fit? If they are a slip fit and you cut the ends off I would think there would be nothing preventing them from walking into the middle of the beam.

Regarding the tranny mount post above, there are lots of failures of stock mounts as well. I broke a tranny mount from loading my bus too full of firewood once.
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Ian
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWsArent4Hippies wrote:
If you already have the stock trailing arm seals just cut the ends off the urethanes and run both. Then you don't have to buy anything..


I'm fine with buying a proper set of urethane bushings, but which ones and from where? I need the outer "grease seal" part to be close to the correct thickness.

Can I just buy needle bearings from CIP1 and put them in instead of the original micarta style?
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DubStyle
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can cut the hat off and apply green loctite to the outside before you slide them in.
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VWsArent4Hippies
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian wrote:
VWsArent4Hippies wrote:
If you already have the stock trailing arm seals just cut the ends off the urethanes and run both. Then you don't have to buy anything..


I'm fine with buying a proper set of urethane bushings, but which ones and from where? I need the outer "grease seal" part to be close to the correct thickness.

Can I just buy needle bearings from CIP1 and put them in instead of the original micarta style?


I'm not sure if Wagens West bushings are any thicker on the end. I usually use the bushings from WW but only on narrowed beams so the torsions get narrowed accordingly to take up any gap there might be...

campingbox wrote:
VWsArent4Hippies wrote:
If you already have the stock trailing arm seals just cut the ends off the urethanes and run both. Then you don't have to buy anything..


Are they a slip fit or a press fit? If they are a slip fit and you cut the ends off I would think there would be nothing preventing them from walking into the middle of the beam.



They're slip fit. Sleeve retainer on the outside of the bushing and zerks that go halfway into the wall of the bushing keep them in place just fine though.
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Nate@wagenswest
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would stick with the original phenol bushings, if it were my decision to make. Along with phenolic resins the original pre 1965 Volkswagen bus beam bushing, are filled with a most amazing compound mixture of organic material like cotton and cow’s milk, making them very hard but still able to absorb a film of grease and keep abrasion to a minimum. I’ve seen these bushing still working good at 300k miles. With our Polyurethane bushings you will still have a little gap in-between the arm and sealing lip, this isn’t hard to overcome, just use your imagination. Something like an O-ring under the shoulder of the bushing would do it.
Polyurethane works well in a lot of situations, but if you have a choice, I say stick with Original type beam bearings. Needle bearings> Teflon coated Babbit bearings> phenol bearings>Delrin type bearings> UHMW bearings>polyurethane bearings.
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VWsArent4Hippies
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nate, do you have any plans to make delrin bushings?
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Fish
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

campingbox wrote:
Regarding the tranny mount post above, there are lots of failures of stock mounts as well. I broke a tranny mount from loading my bus too full of firewood once.


I too have ripped and torn mounts, but I've never had them disintegrate and crumble into small pieces like the urethane does. Especially in such a short amount of time.
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