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Newb....*REVISED* "Clustertruck"
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

notchback: $500 for the blue late model pickup w/Title. The FI engine & 4 speed are there, but it had an engine fire!

PlugUgly: The 3 speed automatic transmission w/FI engine is what you want in a Type 3.
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P!ugUg!y
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
notchback: $500 for the blue late model pickup w/Title. The FI engine & 4 speed are there, but it had an engine fire!

PlugUgly: The 3 speed automatic transmission w/FI engine is what you want in a Type 3.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


thats out of a late model right?
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the automatic transmissions are all IRS. The IRS subframe w/brakes will bolt into an early swing axle Type 3 though.
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

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P!ugUg!y
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
Yes, the automatic transmissions are all IRS. The IRS subframe w/brakes will bolt into an early swing axle Type 3 though.


ok, cool. they seem to be kinda difficult to find.

and any advice on modding a 1600?
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

P!ugUg!y wrote:
Mike Fisher wrote:
Yes, the automatic transmissions are all IRS. The IRS subframe w/brakes will bolt into an early swing axle Type 3 though.


ok, cool. they seem to be kinda difficult to find.

and any advice on modding a 1600?


The IRS sub frame from 69 thru 73 bolts right in. You'll have to fabricate some sort of engine hanger though, as there's no forks on AT cars. The reason for removing the forks on IRS subframes, was due to the AT being as wide as it is, it wouldn't fit the forks. And VW decided to just make 1 subframe fit both transmissions, by going with the IRS set up.

As for doing something to get a little more oomph out of the 1600, there are cam swaps, and upping the compression. Other than that, not much. However, you could build a larger T-3 engine (it shares ALL of the internal parts of a t-1 engine). This means you can go with anything from a 1776 (largest size for the stock FI system), all the way up to a 2332. It just costs money is all. Wink
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P!ugUg!y
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
P!ugUg!y wrote:
Mike Fisher wrote:
Yes, the automatic transmissions are all IRS. The IRS subframe w/brakes will bolt into an early swing axle Type 3 though.


ok, cool. they seem to be kinda difficult to find.

and any advice on modding a 1600?


The IRS sub frame from 69 thru 73 bolts right in. You'll have to fabricate some sort of engine hanger though, as there's no forks on AT cars. The reason for removing the forks on IRS subframes, was due to the AT being as wide as it is, it wouldn't fit the forks. And VW decided to just make 1 subframe fit both transmissions, by going with the IRS set up.

As for doing something to get a little more oomph out of the 1600, there are cam swaps, and upping the compression. Other than that, not much. However, you could build a larger T-3 engine (it shares ALL of the internal parts of a t-1 engine). This means you can go with anything from a 1776 (largest size for the stock FI system), all the way up to a 2332. It just costs money is all. Wink


that is exactly what i was trying to determine! thank you. so when im looking for engine rebuild parts i should be shopping for t1 parts to up the cc's? any links to a build thread on something like this?
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grandpa pete
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
notchback: $500 for the blue late model pickup w/Title. The FI engine & 4 speed are there, but it had an engine fire!

PlugUgly: The 3 speed automatic transmission w/FI engine is what you want in a Type 3.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Thanks Mike , I'm thinking about the next project and an air conditioned ;automatic modern truck might look good in purple and silver Very Happy Very Happy

Now I have to start checking out prices on air conditioned automatic squarebacks and sawsall blades Twisted Evil Twisted Evil
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Last edited by grandpa pete on Fri Jan 30, 2015 10:36 am; edited 1 time in total
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Suesanctuary
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

P!ugUg!y wrote:

that is exactly what i was trying to determine! thank you. so when im looking for engine rebuild parts i should be shopping for t1 parts to up the cc's? any links to a build thread on something like this?


Yes. The type 3 shares all of it's internal parts with a type 1 engine. The big differences between the 2 are; distributor drive shaft is rotated 60* to clear the vac advance can (fan shroud is in the way), the cooling fan mounted to the crank, the "dog house" oil cooler laid on it's side, and the extra hole in the case for oil fill/dipstick tube, along with bosses for the IRS engine hanger bar. Most of the "universal" cases have these provisions incorporated into them, because the case can be used in a bus (later buses have an engine hanger bar), bug, or type 3.
Keep in mind that the type 3 head normally doesn't have the step in it like a bug or bus head has. This is because the type 3 engine had slightly more compression, versus those 2. The type 3 engine can use the stepped head though, but it does cost you a few points on the compression ratio.

As for a build thread on a t-1/t-3 engine, just look in the engine building forum, as there are plenty of engine builds there. If you do a search of this forum though, you'll find that Mark (W1K1) has some pics of his 1904, along with the "Kendall Fastback" having an engine build, and JSMSkater has 1 as well. I'm sure there are a couple more, but those are the ones I can think of right off hand.
I hope this helps.
P.S. This is Bob, I'm just logged in on my wife's side of the Samba. Wink
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Did you know:
New York was the first state to require license plates, back in 1901. In those days, you had to make your own. Sears even sold Kits! Massachusetts was the first state to issue them in 1903.
Source: Automobile Magazine, Nov. 2006
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P!ugUg!y
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well im thinking a lower compression ratio might not be too bad, cause i would really like to put a turbo on there anyways. but thank you for all that info, i'll do some digging around today and look into some of that.
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P!ugUg!y
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

finally got a chance to get back into this thing. pulled the motor out real quick. we will be bench testing the compression and cleaning it up a bit to determine if i want to keep it stock, go bigger or buy new. heres a few quick snapshots of the progress.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

P!ugUg!y wrote:
finally got a chance to get back into this thing. pulled the motor out real quick. we will be bench testing the compression and cleaning it up a bit to determine if i want to keep it stock, go bigger or buy new. heres a few quick snapshots of the progress.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Just so you know, the rear of your "truck" has been converted to IRS. You can tell by the 4 CV joints on the drive axles. Wink
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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P!ugUg!y
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

im actually thinking this underwent a swap at some point. there was a new clutch and lightened flywheel on the motor as well. either that or the pan is a 67 and the rest is all 68 for the most part. true to form for a project called the Clustertruck.
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P!ugUg!y
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Rolling Eyes
so it looks like i'll be in the market for a new(ish) motor most likely. best case scenario i can salvage the case. it seems a bearing was spun and the right side head was fried pretty good. the heads were gonna be swapped for dual port anyways, so im not too distraught.

any suggestions? this is a budget build to some extent, so dropping 5 grand on a turnkey is out of the question at least for the time being.
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Mexicant
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time for a type 4 swap Cool
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P!ugUg!y
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the case seems to be salvagable so im most likely going to rebuild with a stroker kit. it boils down to spend the money all at once (which is a little trickier for me right now) or spend it a little slower over time. to keep things pretty balanced budgetwise im gonna have to go with the slower over time spending option.

so ive heard 1776 and 1915 is ok but to avoid 1835? is this true?

my major expenses will be the rebuild kit, dual port heads and carbs as far as i can figure. anything i need to know or am not thinking about?
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Sqrbckguy38
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The majority of people having issues with the 1835 is that the older cylinders have thin walls, so a heavier vehicle has issues cooling. I've found that if you get the newer ones is not so bad. Do a stroker with say a 76mm crank and 90.5 thick walls and you'll love it.
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P!ugUg!y
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll start looking into that combo, thanks for the help!
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 28, 2015 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would do a decent stockish rebuild to get the hang of this and work out the bugs and finish the car.

If you really like driving the car once it's done, and want more power, then start working on building up a hotter motor you can transfer all of your externals to.

Looks like you have your hands full already.

Building hot motors is a whole other book,
And the first chapter is "build a stock motor first".

There's enough of these projects unfinished as it is.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clatter wrote:
I would do a decent stockish rebuild to get the hang of this and work out the bugs and finish the car.

If you really like driving the car once it's done, and want more power, then start working on building up a hotter motor you can transfer all of your externals to.

Looks like you have your hands full already.

Building hot motors is a whole other book,
And the first chapter is "build a stock motor first".

There's enough of these projects unfinished as it is.


X2
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
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Tram wrote:
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do the 003 automatic transmission that you really want & a stock engine now.
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66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

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