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Cylinder not firing, please help.
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:45 pm    Post subject: Cylinder not firing, please help. Reply with quote

I've been racking my brain on this. Single port stock 1300 with 1600 p/c kit, 1300 heads. New coil, wires, fuel tank, filter, etc. Carb is a 30 Pict 1. Choke set up properly. One small washer under float valve.

It starts and idles good, runs pretty good in the cold. Off idle, at low RPM, I get a little stutter (even when warm). No back firing.

My mechanical fuel pump is putting out 2 PSI (according to my 0-15psi gage).

I've dialed in my fuel/air mix screw per standard.

I've got a 122.5 main jet, 55 pilot jet.

Any thoughts? Should I consider different jetting? Do I need more fuel pressure? It's not a problem that makes it un-driveable, but I know its not right.
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Last edited by billfred1 on Mon Feb 16, 2015 7:30 pm; edited 2 times in total
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 4:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a 125 main jet in an old carb I had. I might try that and see how it goes. From what research I've done, that might be the correct size for this set up anyway.
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madmike
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope the plug wires arn't the fancy colored ones Crying or Very sad pure junk!!!! and drove me nuts too Laughing
what happens when u stomp the throttle? OK? then it's not fuel related Wink
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 5:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No colored wires. Newer napa ones. Seems ok when I stomp accelerator. Accel pump is working.
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess it could be electrical, but I just can’t figure out what.

Points are good, checked with dwell meter. Distributor is stock and a fresh rebuilt one from “Tasb” (dizzy guy here on Samba). Timing and valves have been set.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the fuel level set too high in carb? May be sloching out of bowl on incline.
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, now I am thinking it might be a spark issue. The 125 main jet didn’t help. I’m confident the carb is correct. It feels good under acceleration, good under steady fast RPM, idles pretty good.

Drove it to work this morning. It really seems like it stumbles the worst off idle. Like after low RPM then getting on the gas. It misses. Now I’m starting to wonder if it’s running rich and maybe fouling out plugs. Under fast RPM it can burn off the fuel, after I’ve sat at a light and then get on it, the plugs are missing because they are soaked with fuel?? Make sense? I guess I’ll pull the plugs tonight and see what they look like.
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HRVW
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question I see 1300 heads (small valves) with a correct 30-1 Carb but larger 85.5 p & c that are starving....am I WRONG in my thinking?

Compression also comes under question.
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HRVW wrote:
Question I see 1300 heads (small valves) with a correct 30-1 Carb but larger 85.5 p & c that are starving....am I WRONG in my thinking?


I do have the stock 1300 SP heads with the 85.5 P/C. The carb I have does not have the power circuit. I'm wondering if the cold weather is just magnifying this problem. I wasn't having this problem in the summer.

Compression also comes under question.[/quote]
I'm pretty sure my compression is good. Rings only have about 1000 miles on them. I'm going to double check spark plugs tonight. Maybe that will tell me something.

I'm also going to look at my accelerator pump, it's spraying, but not always a steady stream.

I'm open for other ideas.

Where's Andy, the carb expert Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the vacuum advance on your distributor working?
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jhoefer wrote:
Is the vacuum advance on your distributor working?


Yep. Checked that both with timing light and suck method.

bugguy076 wrote:
Is the fuel level set too high in carb? May be sloching out of bowl on incline.


I also checked this last night. Right at 19mm from top of carb rim. That's in spec.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The main jet won't make much/any difference at idle and transition. (Is this a 1300 carb without the power fuel jet, or at 1500 carb with it? You should base your choice on main jet as to whether or not you have that additional high speed enrichment available. )

I'd be looking at how loose the throttle shaft bushings are, how well the accelerator pump sprays and how it is aimed, (sounds like you see issues there already) and how well the distributor is advancing. Is this a correct 113905205K vacuum-only distributor, or something else?

-Andy
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Andy,
It's a 1300 carb with no power fuel jet, there's no flange markings. It has a 125 main jet, 125 AC jet.

I have the accle pump jet aimed just at the edge of the throttle plate and carb wall. However, it's function seems sporadic. testing without the engine running, sometimes I get a good stream, sometimes a trickle/mist.

My dizzy is the 113 905 205 K. Recently purchased from Tim Baranay (tasb). Advance seems to be working OK.

I also plan on checking for any air leaks (doubtful, since it idles great). The heat risers are clear, left side doesn't get super hot.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd pull the accelerator pump dump tube and backflush it with some carb/choke cleaner and run some of that through the rest of the system too if possible. I remember one road trip where I had to stop on two different occasions and remove gunk that had somehow mucked up my accel pump outlet.

Here's an old thread where I showed how warm a really good heat riser gets up to:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=150145&start=27

FYI - there probably is a modification state number on the carb, up to mid 66 it was on the bowl.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

look down the carb with it running to see if it is dripping,use a mirrior so you dont catch you head on fire if it burps. you can also try some platinum sparking bolts. clean the idle circut good with crab cleaner. it sounds lke a idle circut issue.or crabs pissing down thise own throats.
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, a warm engine is much better.

It had been sitting out in the cold all day (25F). It was tough going when I took off. It was missing and sputtering a ton for the first 10 minutes. Had some frost under the carb on the manifold. After about 20 minutes of the engine running, it started running good. Responded well under hard accel.

Got home, the heat risers were warm.

I also checked for intake leaks with the carb cleaner. All good except, I do have a leak around the throttle shaft. It does idle good though.
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is the 47-1 carb.

Also, I pulled the plugs. 3 of the 4 looked kind of lean. However, plug #4 was noticeably darker than the other 3. Is that normal?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 4:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rolling Eyes Okay for whatever floats.

As a former engine builder (now retired) the 1300 heads had SMALL valves for the 77mm pistons along with the 30-1 Carb as a combo.

Now you have the 85,5 pistons that need MORE fuel with only SMALL valves (see my drift?)

In addition the carb has a Vacuum leak at the shaft that will suck in air and starve the cyls ...thus the inconsistent idle.

The nozzle that sprays should be replaced if it DRIBBLES or cleaned out with Carb cleaner and blown out with compressed air. There needs to be a strong spray from the nozzle.

Normally the 85.5 would need a 127.5 main jet but here again you have a engine combo that needs working over as a MILEAGE engine that I did DECADES ago with an assortment of jets etc to work with.

My compression statement was in reference to your combustion chamber that determines proper air/fuel ratio needed......here again the heads/cyls/carb combo.

Wish you luck.
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billfred1
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK thanks. Maybe I'll work on a larger jet.
If I went with a 127.5 main, would I also need to change other jets (I've got 125 air correction and 55 idle)?

I'll also work on the throttle shaft leak.

Maybe I should just pony up for a new carb. Any recommendations on type for my set up?
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The main jetting for high speeds is one thing to think about, but it won't affect the low speeds at all. You can put the carb top from a 28PICT-1 or a later 30PICT-1 and get a power fuel system outlet for that high speed enrichment.

One thing with the smaller valves and single port heads is you end up high velocity flow though them even at low engine speeds. This should make your engine run actually better at low speeds. But will be restrictive at the high end.

Most carbs will show some leakage at the throttle shaft. But how much play can you feel or see? (engine off, grab the throttle lever and check for play both at the closed position and partway open.)

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