1964 beetle restoration

wcfvw69 · Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 2:30 pm Post subject:

You're doing great! Nice job with your perseverance in continuing to work on it to get it completed!
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grandpa pete · Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2015 3:14 pm Post subject:

I noticed on page two ; you mentioned putting primer on the metal as you move on . Primer is for priming metal to be painted . If you leave your panels with just primer they will rust . you need a primer SEALER . check your primer cans and see if they say sealer anywhere on them .
Please put some sealer on your nice metal work so you don't have to do it all over again .
NOTE: if you are buying spray cans of primer Rustoleum sells white primer which is easier to paint over especially any shades of yellow.
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platon · Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 8:33 am Post subject:

grandpa pete thanks for your productive comments and for raising a critical issue before it's too late. The story goes as following: about a year ago when I started to work on the body of the car I knew nothing about what materials are used for a professional paint job (and in what sequence). On some of the very early repairs I did, I used primer from a spray can (for convenience) but that wasn't protecting the metal. Rust was coming back. So I went to the local paint supplier, explained what I'm doing and asked for a suitable primer to protect the bare metal at the areas that I have repaired, until the car is painted. They gave me a primer which is called 'rust blocker', it is 1K (no catalyst) and is the grey primer that you see in the pictures. At this point I should mention that my oldest repairs after one year haven't shown any signs of rust.

However, as I am slowly moving towards the end of the rust repair chapter of the restoration, I started to search the internet for more information on what materials should be used to paint the car. Based on my understanding so far, the sequence is as follows:

bare metal should be covered by epoxy 2K primer to protect it from rust, then primer filler can be applied to build a layer that is thick enough to be sanded and formed, then base coat and lastly clear coat. Is this a correct way to paint the car or am I missing something?

The yellowish primer that I have covered the decklid is 2K epoxy by PPG. It's called sigmacover 280. Here is the datasheet:

http://www.ppgpmc.com.au/docs/Sigmacover%20280%20DS.pdf

Is this primer suitable for protecting the metal until the car is painted or should I use something else? If it is, will I be able to use it on top of the gray primer that I have used or should I only use it on bare metal? These are my questions for the time being, any opinions are welcome as I feel a bit lost in the dark on what materials to use and what can go on top of what.

Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post,

Platon
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wcfvw69 · Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 8:39 am Post subject:

On bare metal, some like to using a "etching" primer". It has an acid in it that helps it really stick to the metal. They then start applying the primer on top of that.

You may discuss this with your paint supplier.
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Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

grandpa pete · Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2015 12:40 pm Post subject:

I don't know ANYTHING about epoxy primers . have you looked in the paint and body forum here on Samba

I use Rustoleum spray cans !
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platon · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 5:58 am Post subject:

I had a discussion with my paint supplier who turned out to be an automotive painter in the past, and suggested using PPG's sigmacover 280 epoxy primer to protect bare metal.

I've also done some more work on the car. Here are some pictures:

Right rear fender needed some rust repairs

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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platon · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 6:11 am Post subject:

Driver's side door:

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platon · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 6:28 am Post subject:

Passenger's side door was a mess. Door skin had been repaired in the past with filler over a full size rusty hole!

A foto of what was hiding beneath the surface.

This was covered with filler

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platon · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 6:43 am Post subject:

I also fixed these heater channel plates that had rusted. I cut the rusty part and made a new repair section

I think I should mention with great relief that this is the end of the rust chapter of the restoration! There is no other place on the body of the car that has rust. It was a one year battle with rust, but it seems like I won. Next chapter is chassis repair.

Platon
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bobnorman · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 6:55 am Post subject:

Wow. Great metal fabrication! I was part way down through your update, looking at the work you were doing on the passenger's side door and I thought.. There's no way this guy is in the US. (sure enough-Greece - Yassas!). You just don't see that level of rust repair when its easier/probably cheaper, to just toss and replace. I love seeing this type of work, really shows what can be done. Keep at it, looks great!
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sportin-wood · Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2015 10:09 am Post subject:

Nice work! I'll be honest with you - I wouldn't ever even consider trying to do the metal work you're doing myself, even with the skills that you obviously have, but it has to give you great satisfaction once you've completed some fabrication and repairs. Cudos, man! Keep it up!
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Pinetops · Samba Member Joined: March 24, 2007 Posts: 2987

+1 Your metal work is impressive.
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SixtyThreeRag · Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 2:51 pm Post subject:

I believe you've just about built an entirely new body one puzzle piece at a time. Very nice work!

63Ragtop NZ · Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2015 6:01 pm Post subject:

Did you just rebuild/fabricate the front heater slide door things!?

Shocked

AMAZING, Just AMAZING.

Great work on the doors also, mine need some work like that so you thread will be of huge help to me as I've never done this before either.

keep it up!
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platon · Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 1:42 pm Post subject:

I haven't updated the thread for a while because I was busy preparing the bug's chassis. I have now completed most of the work, so I think I can post some photos of the process.

The only thing I had previously done was to replace the floorpans. Everything else needed fixing.

Gearshift bushing

Broken bolt:

Front end:

Lots of sludge at the rear end:

Various photos of repairs:

Transmission bracket

Starter reoconditioning:

Transmission removal cleaning & painting:

Gearshift:

Steering box:

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platon · Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 2:18 pm Post subject:

Handbrake:

new hanbrake pin made on the lathe

Gearshift bushing:

Front axle:

Various photos of brakes, steering and suspension:

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platon · Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 2:54 pm Post subject:

Chassis painting:

First coat:

Seam sealer application:

Underside done:

Top side:

Assembly has started:

Still working on the pedal assembly right now to complete the chassis restoration. I decided to do the engine last after the car is painted. Hope you enjoyed the pictures.

Platon
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63Ragtop NZ · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 1:06 pm Post subject:

excellent work mate!

the pan looks better than new.

Applause

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platon · Posted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 11:55 am Post subject:

Thanks! Pan still looks nice and shiny but it will get dusty eventually as I don't have a fully closed garage.. Mad

In the meantime, I managed to repair & install the pedal assembly and drove the pan for its first post restoration mini test drive.

This was the initial condition of the pedal assembly, quite a lot of corrosion had formed because of the constantly wet carpet on the floorpans.

So the assembly was torn down to its individual components which were wire wheeled, primed, painted before reassembly took place.

The accelerator pedal was missing its one mounting bracket because it had rusted away. I welded a small piece of metal which was later bent to shape.

Furthermore, my car was missing a dust cap from the front right brake drum. As I couldn't find one from a pre 67 bug, I decided to buy one from a later bug and try to make it fit. Thankfully, I found out that grinding the outside lip would do for a perfect fit.

Ready for its first test drive Cool

Test drive done. Thankfully, everything seems to be working fine.

Platon
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andk5591 · Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 6:01 am Post subject:

Really great work. very impressed. Just one thing. When you did the accel pedal repair, did you make a complete loop for the pin and tack it together? Kind of looks like it, which is good. The cheap aftermarket pedals just have tabs bent over and they end up getting loose and sloppy over time. I am not as ambitious as you, so I wimp out and buy a Wolfsburg West repro.

Once again - really really nice work - I know all too well how much is involved in cleaning up the pieces to look good.
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