Knewb Welder - I Can't See!

[kkjellquist]

Just grabbed a flux core welder and I just did my first welds last night on some scrap. Literally the first time I have EVER looked at a weld in process through a mask. Had no idea what to expect and it was fun, but.....

I can barely see anything. I have an auto darkening helmet and even at 9 I can't see the puddle to get a sense of what I am doing. I was able to weld various joints, but they look like garbage. Of course after 1 hr of experience anyone's beads will look bad, but I think they would look better if I could see.

Any thoughts, tips, etc? Do I just need a super bright work area? I was in my garage with a couple overhead shop lights.
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[jspbtown]

Did you try to adjust the dimmer back a few spots?

[kkjellquist]

[MacLeod Willy]

Don't be afraid of a spark. Get closer and you will see the puddle. You cant weld straightarmed
You could try cheater lenses in the helmet, rest your torch with your other hand and relax

Get on Youtube and watch some videos if you cant find someone to show you.
Good luck, but don't weld anything structural

[mac2881994]

Also get a light for the area. I use a small drop light when welding and it makes a world of difference.

[Northof49]

First: What do you mean you can't see the puddle? Why not?

Second: Welding with flux core results in a puddle of molten flux, which obscures seeing the actual puddle of molten steel. It osbcures seeing what is actually going on with the weld, and can be confusing as it overlaps and is larger than the steel puddle. It can also fool you into thinking you are filling in the gap completely, when it is just flux flowing into the area. Tilt the nozzle slightly towards the direction of travel. The old saying is "Drag with slag". As you can't see the actual molten steel, it will take some practice to develop the right technique. You may have to move slower, move more consistently. It will take some trial and error to get the right thing going on without directly seeing the molten steel puddle, or having the slag puddle overtake the whole process. There should be a very consistent sizzle with flux core welding. The sound will give you a clue as to when things are going wrong. It shouldn't be snap, crackle and pop, but a consistent arc.
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[kkjellquist]

[raygreenwood]

A really good basic book....one of the HP series books is available at home depot. $12 and worth every penny.

As someone else noted.....a bright spot lamp is very useful. You need a 100 watt bulb close by....about 12" away. Angle it so you cannot see the bulb in your vision....but from the side either your right or left. Play it on the weld site.

The very bright light will wash out some of the arc light allowing you to see more.

The book I bought also explains a lot about proper weld position and movement of the gun for different types of welds. A relaxed seated position with the ability to rest your arm to move smoothly helps.
Also....as others have noted....dont be afraid of the arc (but respect it). Get a do-rag for your head, make sure you have long non-synthetic sleeves on an buy a pair or mid-arm length leather welding gauntlets.....anywhere from $8-20.

When you are properly prepared.....get in close with your face shield.....about 6-8 from where you are welding....and look at the area from the side opposite that you are moving the gun....angled back a bit. In this way the gun tip shields the arc from vision a bit but you can see the puddle. Ray

[beetlenut]

I ended up doing this to my auto-darkening helmet to see what I was welding. Whatever I look at to weld gets lit up by the LEDs.

I had to put that shield of cardboard around the auto-darkening lense to keep it from false triggering from the LED lights I was using above it to light up my work. Also try using different settings on the adjustment knob while welding to find the best result. I also started wearing reading glasses under my helmet to see what I was welding.
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[Northof49]

Does the mask darken when you strike the arc? If so, are you positioned to see the puddle, or is it obscured by the nozzle?

I like good lighting so that I can see what I'm doing before I strike the arc, but I wasn't aware that it improved my vision after the arc struck?? I thought the arc itself threw off enough light at that point to see the arc, and a few inches ahead of the weld so that I stay on course.
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1958 Karmann Ghia owner

[theKbStockpiler]

Flux core is more challenging than mig or tig. A light will only help you overcome the shade that your lens starts from which should be 4. After you start the arc the light will not aide you. I use a small light bar to see where the wire is going to hit before the lens adjusts.. With flux core the arc is bright and if your bead is small you won't be able to see the puddle unless you get your line of sight around the arc. I set my lens so there is just a small amount of glare. Experiment with having the lens too dark and no glare and so much glare that it's like looking at an over exposed photo (all glare). Angle the nozzle more so the arc is more sideways. When welding, the smallest detail you have to be able to see is the edge of the puddle or aka it's toe. Sometimes , the shape , color and texture of the metal makes it so you can only see an area that is only slightly larger than the puddle. Therefore the only part you can see is the puddle and maybe the seam just in font of the puddle .Other times you will be able to see the puddle and the whole piece of metal very well through your peripheral vision. Using bright lights after the arc is stuck does not help. When you are pulling a bead the nozzle blocks the arc from lighting up on your up coming seam. A longer stick out may help.

Strike an arc so your line of sight is not blocked and you can see the puddle and not the arc. Watch as the the puddle spreads out. When the puddle stops spreading out move your nozzle and the puddle will follow. Don't weld on a higher voltage setting than your welder manual states. The flux will not stay on top of the weld and when it cools it will be in the bead.
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Use all safety devices including a mask.

[Northof49]

I only use flux core when I am asked to take the show on the road, and don't want to haul a bottle. It's also useful where there is wind, because air flow will blow away mig's shielding gas. Other than having portability, and allowing you to weld slightly thicker metal with the same amperage of welder, flux core isn't that desirable of a process.
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1958 Karmann Ghia owner

[beetlenut]

[Northof49]

[kkjellquist]

[beetlenut]

[MacLeod Willy]

I use core wire and removed the gas shield from the torch. It just gets in the way.

I took a piece of Teflon and turned out a tapered insulator right down to the tip. Now I can get inside a 1/2 inch space without arcing out.

[kkjellquist]

[RLFD213]

Maclead can you show us some pictures of what you're talking about?

[modok]

That's a good idea but careful with the teflon. Burning teflon fumes are VERY harmful, not that flux fumes are good either......

It's just a little insulator so you can take off the nozzle when not using gas, and put it on instead so you don't short the tip out touching it to the work.
This one is sold at home depot