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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51149
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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 Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 10:33 am Post subject: |
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Yes, M10X1.0 or more specifically 1/8" BSP and tapered would likely be the best fit unless it has a copper washer under it now.
That switch isn't a pressure sensor like the others, it's a mechanical pushbutton that a cam like bump on the guts of the master pushes on when it goes too far out of operating range.
The later system uses the pressure switches only and lights the warning light when only one switch senses pressure.
The European masters without the warning light use only one switch to run the brake lights, that's why some of the replacement ones showing up from foreign lands lately don't have enough holes.
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Brian
Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 10:56 am Post subject: |
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Here is the diagram
the part that got cut off reads
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| cup (5) covers the compensating port (4), and the front brake circuit pressure chamber (II) is also closed, an equal pressure is built up in both pressure chambers. The brake fluid dis-placed by this pressure is forced into the brake lines trans-ferring a force to the wheel cylinder pistons. |
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kreemoweet
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Joined: March 13, 2008
Posts: 3899
Location: Seattle, WA
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richparker
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Joined: November 24, 2011
Posts: 6982
Location: Durango, CO
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richparker
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2011
Posts: 6982
Location: Durango, CO
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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Finally got out there and got the brakes fixed. I installed the welded switch back into the MC with some black silicone on the threads. I taped up the wire ends and moved them up and out of the way. Then I bled all four wheels solo style. I pumped the pedal then I stuck my auto choke stick (ice scraper) between the pedal and the seat and bled. The drivers side bleader valve was really stuck. I had to heat it for a few minutes before I could get it loose. Then I had the wife come out and pump the brakes while I bled them again. I out around 15 oz of fluid through the system. Not much air out of the back cylinders but I got a bunch out of the front. Then I pulled the hub caps and re adjusted all the shoes. The driver side front was out a bit out of adjustment but the other shoes were perfect. Fired it up and went for a ride, brakes are dialed. Hope they stay that way.  .
All in all it was pretty easy fix but...it was raining on me the whole time. They are calling for 90% chance of snow tomorrow and I had to get it done.
Thanks for all your help!
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scrivyscriv
Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011
Posts: 2922
Location: Memphis
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| Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 7:58 am Post subject: |
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Glad to see you got it done. Sucks working out in the rain, but sometimes you don't have a choice.
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Abscate
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Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 22671
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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| Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:59 am Post subject: |
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Under the bus is out of the rain..
Bravo Zulu on those brakes. Stay tuned in to operation as always
I hate using heat on bleeders, with all those rubber pieces nearby, critical for good stoppers.... 
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richparker
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2011
Posts: 6982
Location: Durango, CO
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| Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 9:40 am Post subject: |
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| Abscate wrote: |
I hate using heat on bleeders, with all those rubber pieces nearby, critical for good stoppers.... |
I didn't have a choice. I didn't have a back up bleeder so I wasn't going to brake it. I only heated it for a couple of minutes after I let it sit for a bit with some PB Blaster on it. I used a pencil tip on the torch and directed the heat to the bleeder itself not the whole area.
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Abscate
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Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 22671
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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| Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 10:19 am Post subject: |
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You have done well, Obiwan. When I have used heat, about half the time I end up torching something else in the system
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Tom Powell
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Joined: December 01, 2005
Posts: 4855
Location: Kaneohe
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| Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 12:30 pm Post subject: |
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THE tool for removing bleeder valves and brake line fittings:
flare nut wrenches
Aloha
tp |
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Abscate
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Joined: October 05, 2014
Posts: 22671
Location: NYC/Upstate/ROW
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| Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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Its not a issue of being able to apply enough torque when they are frozen in place, its getting the threads moving without breaking the bleeder.
You can snap off the bleeder with a crescent wrench, locking pliers, open end, box end, flare nut, or even a spanner...
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Tom Powell
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Joined: December 01, 2005
Posts: 4855
Location: Kaneohe
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| Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Abscate wrote: |
| ... You can snap off the bleeder with a crescent wrench, locking pliers, open end, box end, flare nut, or even a spanner... |
Been there, done that.
The flare nut wrenches are better at not-rounding the nut. They are better on a rounded nut. Sometimes visegrips are the only tool that will work.
Aloha
tp |
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