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Help with organizing power band. Want low end in a 1679
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWCOOL wrote:
It may be beyond the scope of your build, but a 4.3 or lower diff will really, REALLY assist with response, driveability and performance with those taller tyres. Exhaust: The smallest pipe-size off-the-shelf 4>1 extractor you can find


I'm actually removing a type 2 reduction transaxle from the car.
It had a 4.37 ring and pinion plus 1.26 reduction boxes.
It has lots of torque with the stock 1600cc.

I've been eyeballing the 4.86:1 ring and pinion for my IRS trans.
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My previous exhaust was a Thunderbird dual ehaust.
Only because I always thought they looked really cool in the JC Whitney catalog.
Now that I have that out of my system I am looking into 4 into 1 merged Collector systems.

I love the looks of the euro tuck away dual exhaust but I think the glass packs won't give enough back pressure.
http://www.mooreparts.com/1013-AC251162/?gclid=CKrx_JajvcMCFYqIfgodbawAUQ

leaning towards a single quiet pack.
http://www.shop.kaddieshack.com/searchquick-submit.sc?keywords=3682
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64 Pan Buggy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

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Last edited by 71StandardReduction on Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Brian
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a tri-mil when I had the bug but I was planning on bumping up to the Vintagespeed 1-1/2" one that tucks up like the stock one. Have you thought about going that route?

Also I'll trade you your reduction boxes for a HD bug transmission Wink
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian wrote:
I had a tri-mil when I had the bug but I was planning on bumping up to the Vintagespeed 1-1/2" one that tucks up like the stock one. Have you thought about going that route?

Also I'll trade you your reduction boxes for a HD bug transmission Wink


If you weren't so far away!

It's a good setup, has the latest model John Johnson no hop kit.
1963 &1/2 year model (odd ball- small nut, but 1 ton rated)
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

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MURZI
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The FK41 with 1.25's is STRONG. I like it!!!
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright so here is what I have planned to use.
The car is not and will not be a daily driver, probably will see less than 3k miles a year, I only average 9500ish miles in my daily driver.
it's just something for recreational entertainment and occasionally drive to town.

Scat Volksaver 69mm crank.
5.4" I beams, Idk what brand.
Scat C-25 cam kit.
Scat 1.1 street duty rocker assemblies.
Melling oil pump. (Or some other 26mm pump, I can only find 30mm melling)
Stock flywheel, modified for 8 dowell.
A A 88mm thick tops.(already have)
stock dp heads.

pertronix SVDA, pertronix coil, wires.
single 40 IDF from AC.net w/ setup option.
This exhaust, header is in related parts, 1 & 3/8" :
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Hide-Out-Muffler-Hideaway-for-2031-10-13-2032-p/2556-2556-13.htm

This will be my first build using performance parts in an ACVW so if I picked something out that's junk then a decent part suggestion is appreciated.
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YHWH NISSI
YHWH SHALOM

64 Pan Buggy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

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GB Buggy Driver
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 4:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure you need the I beams? Stock VW rods will do and the money saved could go to balancing and maybe a heavy steel front pulley - if you want low end grunt.
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like the 5.5 lb crank pulley?
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One thing I ask from the Lord, This only do I seek:
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YHWH NISSI
YHWH SHALOM

64 Pan Buggy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Ruby Red 1966
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the weight of the flywheel and/or pulley has nothing to do with how much torque the engine has, at any RPMs.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:
the weight of the flywheel and/or pulley has nothing to do with how much torque the engine has, at any RPMs.


It only changes the conservation of momentum. If you get a heavy pulley, have it balanced with your flywheel else you're just moving backwards.
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GB Buggy Driver
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
the weight of the flywheel and/or pulley has nothing to do with how much torque the engine has, at any RPMs.

True but, like the fullweight flywheel, the additional mass will help keep those heavy tyres turning that bit easier and feel like more torque. Obviously all has to be balanced.
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It has a stock steel pulley with the smaller outer pulley on it now.
I'm not sure how much the stock pulley weighs to know how much rotational weight I would be adding.

This is the one I'm picturing though:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/5-5lb-Steel-Crank-Pulley-Slinger-Version-16-9700-p/16-9700.htm

Can said pulley be dynamically balanced?
I wouldn't want to replace a lighter stock pulley with something heavy and possibly unbalanced, especially if it's Goin to cost an extra $110 or so with shipping.
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One thing I ask from the Lord, This only do I seek:
That I may dwell in the House of The Lord all the days of my Life, to gaze on the beauty of The Lord and to seek Him in His Temple~Psalms 27:4

YHWH NISSI
YHWH SHALOM

64 Pan Buggy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Ruby Red 1966
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 1679 with FK-41 on 112 LC, 1.4 rockers, 9.5 compression, stock heads with zero port work, dual 36 DRLA's. Have it in my '64 (4.37 trans) and the low end torque and throttle response makes it almost hard to drive smoothly around town. Makes 90-92 flywheel hp and runs 9.90 in the 1/8th mile. It has a full weight flywheel, counterweighted crank, and a 5 pound pulley. The rotating assembly is something like 44 pounds, it's pretty heavy.


This was when Raby had it with a single 40 DRLA.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



In my '64 with dual 36's.


Link

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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a competitively priced crank to possibly use.
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1105
the description is a little vague, Idk if it is counterweighted or not?
Would it be necessary to use something like the 1110 Rev master crank in my engine build?
If not necessary, would it be more beneficial if I chose such a crank?
if I use the stock rods then I will put the money towards the crank & dynamic balancing.

Also how much valve lift is use able with stock sized valves?
Reason for asking is like the w-100, web 119 & similar cams have around .420 lift and the fk41 has like .455 lift.

Other name brands use lesser lift, like the scat c25 has .365 w/ 1.1's
advertised duration is close the same, web 218 shows 280° and scat c25 shows 272°

Using a smaller cylinder and single carb, I figure there is a use able lift threshold, may be wrong though.
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One thing I ask from the Lord, This only do I seek:
That I may dwell in the House of The Lord all the days of my Life, to gaze on the beauty of The Lord and to seek Him in His Temple~Psalms 27:4

YHWH NISSI
YHWH SHALOM

64 Pan Buggy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Ruby Red 1966
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=779597&highlight=

https://youtube.com/@SCOFabwerx?feature=shared


Last edited by 71StandardReduction on Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:13 am; edited 1 time in total
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GTV
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That crank is counter weighted. Compare it to a picture of a stock crank to understand what counter weighting is.
I personally choose to use DPR cranks. Quality German cores, quality machines in the US.
http://dprmachine.com.s152704.gridserver.com
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

theastronaut wrote:
I have a 1679 with FK-41 on 112 LC, 1.4 rockers, 9.5 compression, stock heads with zero port work, dual 36 DRLA's. Have it in my '64 (4.37 trans) and the low end torque and throttle response makes it almost hard to drive smoothly around town. Makes 90-92 flywheel hp and runs 9.90 in the 1/8th mile. It has a full weight flywheel, counterweighted crank, and a 5 pound pulley. The rotating assembly is something like 44 pounds, it's pretty heavy.


This was when Raby had it with a single 40 DRLA.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



In my '64 with dual 36's.


Link


Here's my 1679cc for comparison.....
Looks like I hit 85 plus mph before I let off.


Link



Not sure how much torque it has but My Iphone dyno showed 179 crank hp.
It did 109 mph in the quarter.
At a standing start it has slight traction issues.......
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is an IPhone dyno?
And how does it work?
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YHWH NISSI
YHWH SHALOM

64 Pan Buggy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Ruby Red 1966
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

71StandardReduction wrote:
What is an IPhone dyno?
And how does it work?


It works off the Iphone. You put it in a holder in the car and it measures speed, distance and g-force and comes up with an elapsed time and top speed.

http://www.bunsentech.com/products/dynolicious/



My specs are
1679cc engine.
Stock crank and rods
Stock heads
Stock rockers with solid shafts.
HD single springs
Engle W-100 cam .420 lift at valve
MS-2 FI
Home made Water/Alcohol injection system
Stock German FI Throttle body on homemde intake manifold.
CB Performance FI end castings with 32# Volvo injectors.
Kennedy Stage I 1700 lb. clutch with CB SuperDisc.
Just over 22 lbs boost.

Here is the read out it gives me.
It's set to give me Crank HP.

Safari buggy solo
1964 Vw Dune buggy
Jan 25, 2015, 4:56 PM
Acceleration
0-10 MPH: 1.67 sec
0-20 MPH: 2.41 sec
0-30 MPH: 3.01 sec
0-40 MPH: 3.92 sec
0-50 MPH: 4.81 sec
0-60 MPH: 6.02 sec
0-70 MPH: 7.00 sec
0-80 MPH: 8.13 sec
0-90 MPH: 9.84 sec
0-100 MPH: 11.57 sec
Elapsed Time
60': 3.13 sec @ 29.9 MPH
330': 6.67 sec @ 66.2 MPH
1/8 mi: 9.45 sec @ 87.8 MPH
1000': 11.88 sec @ 101.0 MPH
1/4 mi: 13.92 sec @ 109.4 MPH
Miscellaneous
Max Speed: 109.6 MPH
Max Acceleration: 0.78 G's
Peak Horsepower: 179 HP
Generated by Dynolicious

I have it set to give me Crank HP.

You input your cars weight with you in it ready to do the run and it puts out this info.
My last run with the older turbo and 5 lbs. less boost gave me 138 Crank HP.

Here is the Video to go with the Dyno info.


Link

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vwracerdave wrote:

Take a good long look in the mirror and report back on what you see.


Paul.H wrote:
That one line on that chart is probably better info than you can get from this place in a month



My Megasquirt Fuel Injection Turbo Buggy Build
Water/Alcohol Injection
Audi TT intercooler
Upgraded to MS3Pro-Evo
EcuMaster PMU16
ECUMaster ADU5 Digital Dash


http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936
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GTV
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a DPR crank. High quality, low cost. Also, there is no need for I beam rods. Stock and properly rebuilt/balanced rods are more than up to the task for your 1679. With a counter weighted crank, I see no reason to not lighten the flywheel. You want to invest your money in the heads- that's where power is made. Stock size valves are fine for this build, get a proper valve job, blend the seats into the ports, match port the intakes, and unshroud the valves. Good HD single springs, solid shafts. Set the deck tight, no less than .040" though. Engle 100 (or Web Cam 119?), around 8:1 CR.
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71StandardReduction
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GTV wrote:
Get a DPR crank. High quality, low cost. Also, there is no need for I beam rods. Stock and properly rebuilt/balanced rods are more than up to the task for your 1679. With a counter weighted crank, I see no reason to not lighten the flywheel. You want to invest your money in the heads- that's where power is made. Stock size valves are fine for this build, get a proper valve job, blend the seats into the ports, match port the intakes, and unshroud the valves. Good HD single springs, solid shafts. Set the deck tight, no less than .040" though. Engle 100 (or Web Cam 119?), around 8:1 CR.


How about a Web 119 with 105° lobe seperation?
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One thing I ask from the Lord, This only do I seek:
That I may dwell in the House of The Lord all the days of my Life, to gaze on the beauty of The Lord and to seek Him in His Temple~Psalms 27:4

YHWH NISSI
YHWH SHALOM

64 Pan Buggy
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

Ruby Red 1966
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=779597&highlight=

https://youtube.com/@SCOFabwerx?feature=shared
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