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PITApan
Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2014
Posts: 1058
Location: Northern Colorado
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 Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Guy in the vid. isn't dealing with a tight axle nut. That routine will just spin the wheel on a VW with a tight nut. BTDT |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51121
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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In cases where the wheel still spins I've used a large ratchet strap around a partially deflated tire and hooked it to the torsion tube, sort of like a giant oil filter strap wrench.
Worst case scenario is split the nut and get a new one.
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xinemae
Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2015
Posts: 48
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| Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:07 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks all!
Got the whacker ordered 
Another person mentioned (off board) to use a butane torch to heat the nut. I'm worried about the flammability of the PB Blaster we've coated this thing in for a week.
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1970 Riviera |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51121
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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If there's a big lake of it mop it up and wipe off what you can, it'll smoke like hell and may flash into small flames occasionally but most of the really volatile stuff will have long evaporated. Nothing a wet towel won't take care of.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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xinemae
Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2015
Posts: 48
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| Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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w00t BusDaddy, ya made me feel lots better about it. Thanks  
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1970 Riviera |
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xinemae
Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2015
Posts: 48
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 11:28 am Post subject: bustin' a nut! |
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I ordered a 'whacker' least week, it hasn't gotten here yet... So in the mean time we have
PB Blaster for over a week.
Propane torch for 10 minutes, twice.
Bought a 3/4 inch drive air impact wrench.. Still hasn't budged.
If the whacker doesn't work, I'm at a complete loss. I had a night mare that someone used lock tite on it. I do not want to cut this off 
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1970 Riviera |
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PITApan
Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2014
Posts: 1058
Location: Northern Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 12:23 pm Post subject: Re: bustin' a nut! |
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| xinemae wrote: |
I ordered a 'whacker' least week, it hasn't gotten here yet... So in the mean time we have
PB Blaster for over a week.
Propane torch for 10 minutes, twice.
Bought a 3/4 inch drive air impact wrench.. Still hasn't budged.
If the whacker doesn't work, I'm at a complete loss. I had a night mare that someone used lock tite on it. I do not want to cut this off |
Locktight softens with heat---non-issue. A propane torch may not be enough heating rate. The heat bleeds off into the mass of metal before you get good temp. A MAPP would be better. Your are after heating and cooling cycles to break the rust.
I'd return the impact. If it didn't work you don't have other use for it. A 1/2" electric is handy for your yearly tire changes.
Cutting isn't difficult. You grind away one flat until you are almost there and then your breaker or whacker will crack the remaining nut. It's a patience move. You sit there on a bucket and grind away on that one flat. The grinding wheel is held on edge so you dish the center of the flat and stay away from the corners. Smaller wheel is better. You may need to remove he guard.
You want a stiff wire wheel in a corded drill to clean up the threads and that is something you will use often everywhere.
Am electric grinder will not take a wire wheel---too much speed. But they are very handy. have both cutting wheels and grinding wheels. |
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xinemae
Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2015
Posts: 48
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 12:25 pm Post subject: Re: bustin' a nut! |
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| PITApan wrote: |
Locktight softens with heat---non-issue. A propane torch may not be enough heating rate. The heat bleeds off into the mass of metal before you get good temp. A MAPP would be better. Your are after heating and cooling cycles to break the rust.
I'd return the impact. If it didn't work you don't have other use for it. A 1/2" electric is handy for your yearly tire changes.
Cutting isn't difficult. You grind away one flat until you are almost there and then your breaker or whacker will crack the remaining nut. It's a patience move. You sit there on a bucket and grind away on that one flat. The wheel is held on edge so you dish the center of the flat and stay away from the corners. Smaller wheel is better. You may need to remove he guard.
You want a stiff wire wheel in a corded drill to clean up the threads and that is something you will use often everywhere.
Am electric grinder will not take a wire wheel---too much speed. But they are very handy. have both cutting wheels and grinding wheels. |
Thanks PITA!
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PITApan
Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2014
Posts: 1058
Location: Northern Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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Hair and rapidly rotating tools don't mix. Put it up with 5 scrunchies so not 3 strands can come loose. Full face shield is nice too.
Brace your forearms along your thighs to control the grinder. It makes plenty sparks. If you get shy and step back and hold it away from you it will be uncontrollable. Hair up, facesheild on, wade in close.
Grinding, if it come to it, makes a lot of heat. let it cool to take advantage of the cycle before going in w/ next weapon of destruction.
Think positive thoughts: "shock and awe, shock and awe..."/. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51121
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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Also be aware of where the sparks are going, they can damage glass and paint and start fires.
Another option is drill a series of holes across one flat of the nut (stop just before the threads) and splitting it along the holes with a cold chisel.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
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PITApan
Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2014
Posts: 1058
Location: Northern Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
Also be aware of where the sparks are going, they can damage glass and paint and start fires.
Another option is drill a series of holes across one flat of the nut (stop just before the threads) and splitting it along the holes with a cold chisel. |
Can the cold chisel routine smash the bearings? You don't have the tire absorbing hard shock as you do running down the road...
I don't have a whacker yet (will get one) but as I understand them, you put a breaker bar on it, one person leans on this (with a cheater pipe) while the other smacks on the whacker wrench itself w/ the big hammer (a deadblow is nice but the plastic deadblows might break).
A plumbing brush is good for cleaning up the internal threads on a big nut. The kind of plumbing brush that is a round (cylindrical) wirebrush for going on the inside of pipe.. You can cut the handle off and run it in your corded drill.
Whatever happened to the socket + breaker bar+ cheater braced against the ground and then you drive forward (backward?) on it technique? This is how you break out the big crankshaft nuts on some water cooled cars. You brace your breaker bar on the frame and crank the engine. |
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busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51121
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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| PITApan wrote: |
| busdaddy wrote: |
Also be aware of where the sparks are going, they can damage glass and paint and start fires.
Another option is drill a series of holes across one flat of the nut (stop just before the threads) and splitting it along the holes with a cold chisel. |
Can the cold chisel routine smash the bearings? You don't have the tire absorbing hard shock as you do running down the road.... |
Plausible, but bearings are pretty tough, desperate times sometime require desparate measures, not a whole lot different than beating the sh*t out of that whacker (while someone stands on the breaker bar attached to it). A slightly less savage solution would be to chisel inwards towards the drum opposed to straight down on the shaft, that way the weight of the drum and axle components soak up some of the hits through inertia, even better if the wheel is installed. The balls would still take the hits but the working surfaces of the races would be spared. Personally I'd just wash the nut off with the hot wrench, but I've F'd up multiple things with that tool over the years so I can say I know how (and how not to) use it  Don't try this at home.
The ideal solution is to drive the bus to a tire shop that handles large trucks and bring a box of donuts, have them crack it loose with thier mega impact wrench and retighten it yourself by hand for the drive home (leave the donuts behind). But if the bus isn't mobile that's a bit of a challenge.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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PITApan
Samba Member
Joined: November 09, 2014
Posts: 1058
Location: Northern Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2015 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| PITApan wrote: |
| busdaddy wrote: |
Also be aware of where the sparks are going, they can damage glass and paint and start fires.
Another option is drill a series of holes across one flat of the nut (stop just before the threads) and splitting it along the holes with a cold chisel. |
Can the cold chisel routine smash the bearings? You don't have the tire absorbing hard shock as you do running down the road.... |
Plausible, but bearings are pretty tough, desperate times sometime require desparate measures, not a whole lot different than beating the sh*t out of that whacker (while someone stands on the breaker bar attached to it). A slightly less savage solution would be to chisel inwards towards the drum opposed to straight down on the shaft, that way the weight of the drum and axle components soak up some of the hits through inertia, even better if the wheel is installed. The balls would still take the hits but the working surfaces of the races would be spared. Personally I'd just wash the nut off with the hot wrench, but I've F'd up multiple things with that tool over the years so I can say I know how (and how not to) use it Don't try this at home.
The ideal solution is to drive the bus to a tire shop that handles large trucks and bring a box of donuts, have them crack it loose with thier mega impact wrench and retighten it yourself by hand for the drive home (leave the donuts behind). But if the bus isn't mobile that's a bit of a challenge. |
I used to work in the in-house woodshop for a college. The mechanics shop adjoined and they would work on the schools big buses. When they had to get an axle nut off they would come get me. I would sit on the ground and put both feet on the breaker bar and grab the wheel well. In those days I could leg press well over 450 lbs. Would get the nuts off every time.
The donuts at the truck shop is ideal. would take them a minute. Bring your own metric impact socket. Tasty Cremes can get all sorts of things taken care of. |
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scrivyscriv
Samba Electrician
Joined: October 04, 2011
Posts: 2922
Location: Memphis
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