Even have a chance without weld thru primer ?

[Doug C]

I purchased two spray cans of weld thru primer that have both been unusable. They were bought at different times (several months apart) and at different places. Neither would spray from the get go (shook them forever too before trying). Ball rattles but depress the button on both and nothing happens. I could not take either back - lost the receipt on the first can and too much time had passed on the second can. I do not want to drop another $18 bucks on another can.

Frustrated, I attached a quarter panel without it, a few months back. I am worried about the area that surrounds the wheel - the lip where the outer quarter and inner wheel well are joined together. They were both spot welded together, shiny metal to shiny metal. The "outside" of these pieces are in epoxy of course - but do I even have a chance of these areas not rusting out?

I figured I'd spray the inside of these panels (from an opening inside the trunk) with some kind of coating like waxoyl, 3m Rust fighter, or internal frame coating like Eastwoods sells. What do you guys recon, do I have a shot of it not rusting or am I doomed?

Doug C

[OLDveedubs]

Doug,

STOP! You want as much protection for the car as possible. Is your months (years?) long restoration not worth $18 to do the job right? It may be too late for that one panel now, but for the future read below.

That being said, this happens all the time with my primers. Usually after I don't invert the can and clear the material from the tip by pushing it down. The material hardens in the nozzle and no joy next time I go to use it.

To help solve the problem immediately, I take the tip off and put it on a can for brake cleaner. Spray the nozzle a few times. That usually dissolves the nasty bits that clogged the tip.

If that doesn't work, leave the tips in paint thinner overnight. If that doesn't work, steal a tip off another can.

Both of those cans are usable with another tip.
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-Ryan
Restoration Updates
www.my59bug.com
"Perfection through inspection."

[far rider]

You can also just use brush on weld through.
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67 zenith blue sunroof

Contentment; when what you have is what you want.

[Doug C]

[Doug C]

[Doug C]

So, what about my quarter panel that's already welded on - should I bust it open an re-do with brush on primer or will encapsulating in paint inside and out do?

Doug C

[beetlenut]

At this point, I would go with the internal frame coating from Eastwood, and use that long extension that comes with it to get as far back in there as possible.
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scrapyards are for quitters
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[Doug C]

Yea, I think I will go with the Internal Frame coating.

I'm considering trying to open up the seam in between the spots [but there must be 50 spots] (if that's even possible) with a small thin flat-head screw driver - and spray the coating in there too. Close it up with hammer and dolly after it dries, then epoxy the outside and internal frame coat the inside area.

Doug C

[beetlenut]

[Doug C]

Sorry to revisit an old subject but I prefer to be overly cautious, especially if it's practically free.

I have sprayed the inside of the wheel arches (the area between the rear quarter panel and the inner wheel wells) with inner frame coating (rust incapsulator paint) and hopefully that'll keep my wheel arches from rusting thru - since I plug welded them together without weld-thru primer.

But I was thinking.. I have plenty of seam sealer on hand - would it be advisable to add it in the bottom of where the two panels come together? Smear it in that long joint real good? I'm just trying to eliminate moisture getting in there what so ever. Thoughts?

Doug C

[beetlenut]

Most of the panels that were joined together by plug welding (spot welding at the factory), then had seam sealer put over the entire length of the panel edge to seal it (like the pan halves on the floor). So no harm ever came from sealing the metal too good from moisture!
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scrapyards are for quitters
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[Doug C]