Dual IDF 44's on a 1776 & Need Smaller Carbs

MURZI · Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 11:43 am Post subject:

And it could be that the 1776 with 110 cam is a 1600 with a stock cam.......
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

offshores · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:55 am Post subject:

offshores · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:47 pm Post subject:

Any suggestions on gap? 009 dist w/ elec ign and Bosch blue 12v coil. Thanks

[email protected] · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:50 pm Post subject:

I run .028" plug gap on EVERYTHING.
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offshores · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:59 pm Post subject:

Thanks, John. I'll do that and give it another go. It's posible that my rotor wasn't pushed down all the way. Not 100%, but when I removed it again and put it back on it seemed to go down further.

[email protected] · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:08 pm Post subject:

with a lot of Elec Ignitions you must SHORTEN THE ROTOR. If the rotor is touching the magnet wheel you have a problem. There should be a small gap, indicating clearance and a fully seated rotor.

Use a grinder or belt sander on the bottom of the rotor until you have this gap.
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offshores · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 8:11 pm Post subject:

ALL 4 plugs gapped at 028", rotor filed down and there's now a small gap between the mag wheel and rotor. Test drive showed improvements from last time, but runs rough at low rpm's. Checked timing again and when reving up to 3000 rpm's there are some deep sounding burps or pop sounds.

MURZI · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:03 pm Post subject:

Id drop to a 50 idle and reset mixture screws. How many turns from seat are your mixture screws now. Less than 1? 1.5? 2?

Also check for slop in the linkage. I have had carbs be in sync at idle and waaaay out at 1/2 because of linkage issues...loose heim joints, side to side hex bar play.
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[email protected] · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:05 pm Post subject:

double check your cap. With the rotor pushed up, sometimes they break the carbon button in the cap center, resulting in arcing.
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modok · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:27 pm Post subject:

hmm, most carb problems aren't.........but is this one?
Around here running 36 vents in that engine it would just be bog city below 4k rpm.

Although, supposedly being in cali... the air is thick enough with fresh air coming over the ocean from china that you can get away with bigger vents supposedly.

offshores · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:48 pm Post subject:

I just realized something after reading the lean best idle procedure again. I followed the directions to the T just over a week ago. This past Saturday when I rejetted and timed it I overlooked the part where I was suppose to reset the idle speed screw. I actually synched the carbs again with the snail and brought my idle up to around 850-900 RPM’s and then started adjusting idle mixture screws.

This is what I just read and overlooked this last time: “do not turn up idle speed first.”
Highlighted and underlined so I’m guessing it’s important. I’ll redo everything tomorrow and check the cap as well.

Thanks again for all the help guys…

[email protected] · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:52 pm Post subject:

You adjust the idle speed screw if you need to change the idle speed, or bring one carb up/down to match the other.

Then you ALWAYS re-set all 4 idle mixture screws. Repeat.
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offshores · Posted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 9:59 pm Post subject:

I just checked the cap on this engine compared to 2 other caps I have. This tip is shinny and the other 2 are black.

Here's the procedure I followed:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/idf_adjustment_controls.htm

offshores · Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:32 pm Post subject:

I'm about 1 1/2 turns out on the idle mixture screws. It still bogs on the low end if I just crank it WOT w/o any load. Once it gets past that it seems to settle in nicely. I didn't even bother to drive it this time around.

Should I try the 50 idles now???

[email protected] · Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:55 pm Post subject:

what do you have now? When you ask a question post the information needed to answer it so we don't have to hunt for it.

offshores · Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 3:22 pm Post subject:

I originally had:
36mm vents
60 idle
135 main
175 air
F11 et

I changed to:
55 idles
145 mains
200 airs

offshores · Posted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:27 pm Post subject:

I just put my 60 idles back in and if i go from idle to wot it just stalls the engine if i hold it open.

offshores · Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2015 8:06 pm Post subject:

I pulled both carbs and double checked the float level. They were both off from one another just a little bit and then I set them to about 10mm each. They were at about 12mm. I sprayed carb cleaner all over them inside and out and cleaned the jets, etc... even though they looked clean. I replaced all 4 gaskets between the carbs and manifold. Buttoned everything up and when I turned the key it fired right up and the Bus hasn't sounded better since I've had it. I went through the adjustments again and busted out the timing light before the test drive.
This thing sure did come to life this time around, but there's still just a slight lag/stumble shifting from 1st to 2nd. If I rev 1st out a bit and shift it's fine. Very responsive everywhere else though.

My current settings are:
36 vents
60 idles
145 mains
200 airs
f11 et

I also ordered some 32 vents, 50 idles and 125 mains to play around with.
For now I'm satisfied, but determined to get rid of that stumble between 1st and 2nd. I'll play with the jetting a little more and if that fixes it I'll run with these, if not, I'm going to 40's.

Thanks for all the help and info... Very Happy

Motor60

With 36 vents.
Try max timing at 28 degrees.
Then do 55/130/200. Maybe even a 180 air

With 32 vents
Same timing
Then do 52/130/170
This worked for my 2054 with 32 vents


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Dual IDF 44's on a 1776 & Need Smaller Carbs
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