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63vdubbug Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2015 Posts: 62 Location: Bay Area, CA
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 1:59 am Post subject: 63 VW Bug |
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Hi, new to VW's and have always wanted one. I'm actually a ford guy. Bought a property and the previous owner left behind a 63 Bug. PO said it didn't run, but I got it to run. It does not have the original motor and it's currently a 1600 with a 12v conversion.
The bug needs work, but will drive it the way it is. I'm looking for suggestions please. My bug is idling a little rough and it hesitates. The bug does startup fine. Below is what I did so far. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.
- rebuilt carb (Solex 30 pict 1)
- replace spark plugs and wire
- still need to replace cap and rotor
- still need to replace points |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2011 Posts: 1593 Location: Louisville, ky
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 2:25 am Post subject: |
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Glad to have you with us.
Get brakes working first. That way you don't take it for a spin to test it's drivability without some stop ability. Minimum replace the rubber lines and inspect all other components. You're year came with a single circuit brake, if you end up replacing the master cylinder consider the much safer dual circuit.
Next replace all rubber fuel line. It is old, it does not like ethanol and if it fails the car can burst into flames. Since your car runs we can assume the lines are not completely clogged. This clogged fuel line might come to play later when you try to get up to highway speed.
Now that both you and the bug will survive and you can work on other things. Post pictures so we can know exactly what you have and have a better chance of telling you how to make it better.
Hang out here on the samba reading, it is amazing what you can learn with a few minutes of lurking every day.
Oh and where are you located. |
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allsidius Samba Member
Joined: February 02, 2010 Posts: 1475 Location: Norway
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 4:38 am Post subject: Re: 63 VW Bug |
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63vdubbug wrote: |
Hi, new to VW's and have always wanted one. I'm actually a ford guy. Bought a property and the previous owner left behind a 63 Bug. PO said it didn't run, but I got it to run. It does not have the original motor and it's currently a 1600 with a 12v conversion.
The bug needs work, but will drive it the way it is. I'm looking for suggestions please. My bug is idling a little rough and it hesitates. The bug does startup fine. Below is what I did so far. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.
- rebuilt carb (Solex 30 pict 1)
- replace spark plugs and wire
- still need to replace cap and rotor
- still need to replace points |
Is it a single or twin port 1600? Look at the headers, if they split in two before going into the motor it is a twin port. In that case, you should have a 34 Pict-3 carb.
Spark plugs and wire is a cheap insurance, nothing to dwell over.
Regards to the distributor, my 1600 DP did not run right, and I replaced all those parts. Still did not run right. Got a timing light, and the timing was all over the place. Turned out I needed a new dist. Some good ones with electronic timing are available here for under 200 $. Definetely worth it. But I am keeping my old dist, to have it rebuilt.
Good luck! _________________ 1973 1303S w sunroof Click to view image
1978 1303 convertible (sold)Click to view image
1966 1300 RIPClick to view image
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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andk5591 Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2005 Posts: 16758 Location: State College, PA
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 5:20 am Post subject: |
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Go out and buy the John Muir "How to keep your VW alive" book. Can usually be found at Barnes and Noble. Gives a good overview of the cars and covers most repairs. A real good resource.
There are also several "how to buy a bug" guides on the net. Things to look for as far as rust etc, so you have a better handle on what you are dealing with. And keep in mind that even a rusty car is restorable.
In the meantime, would try to make some connections with the local VW community.
And for now, you need to complete the tune-up - valve adjustment and do further troubleshooting. One thing that will mess you up is bad gas and crudded up carb from same. _________________ D-Dubya Manx clone - 63 Short pan,1914.
Rosie 65 bug - My mostly stock daily driver.
Woodie 69 VW woodie (Hot VWs 7/12).
"John's car" 64 VW woodie - The first ever
Maxine 61 Cal-look bug - Cindy's daily driver.
Max - 73 standard Beetle hearse project - For sale
66 bug project - Real patina & Suby conversion
There's more, but not keeping them... |
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roy63 Samba Member
Joined: August 16, 2004 Posts: 1338 Location: Mechanicsville Va.
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 11:50 am Post subject: |
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Welcome 63 was a good year! you will be amazed at how simple these cars are! _________________ MyBuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=571921
Some day when the rust is gone, I will at last found inner peace... (Peace has Been Found)
"Wide awake, and keeping distance from my soul" |
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trh351 Samba Member
Joined: January 15, 2015 Posts: 30 Location: Wichita
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 12:12 pm Post subject: Re: 63 VW Bug |
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allsidius wrote: |
Is it a single or twin port 1600? Look at the headers, if they split in two before going into the motor it is a twin port. In that case, you should have a 34 Pict-3 carb.
Good luck! |
I think he meant the intake manifolds, not the header. Also, IIRC, DPs have aluminum castings going into the head and rubber boots to connect to the steel tube manifold. SPs are all steel tubing. Both have an aluminum casting to tie together the steel heat riser tube. |
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grandpa pete Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2008 Posts: 6426 Location: St. Petersburg, FL
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63vdubbug Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2015 Posts: 62 Location: Bay Area, CA
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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hey everyone, thanks for the response.
I actually drove the bug up and down the block. The brakes are to be in good shape and brake lines are new from what I see. I also found a couple of books and a log of what was done with the bug. Haven't had a chance to go through the books. The PO got into an accident due to the brakes so she had it replaced. I will however replace it with disk in the future.
I've been lurking around here for some time now and pretty excited what I can do with this bug. My first assessment is the bug will need to get some sheetmetal work which I'm not too concerned as I have a welder, but overall the body and pan is in great shape. For now the car will be a rat rod type (if that's what you guys call it). I want to drop it and narrow the beam for sure. If you guys know which is better between adjusters vs drop spindle, please let me know. I want to keep a good ride so I can put my babies inside and go cruising.
PO also painted the car over the original paint which is coming off. I might take some acetone and remove the top layer.
here are some pics of the 63:
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Condesation on the intake? cold weather?
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My goal for now is to get it to idle right so I will take all your suggestions and try them. Thanks again everyone! |
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glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26320 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 4:30 pm Post subject: |
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Condensation on the intake is normal. You look to be somewhere warm, otherwise it might have been frost. If the heat riser pipe on the intake manifold isn't plugged up with carbon, and if the muffler being used flows decently through it, it warms up fairly quickly.
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24759 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 4:45 pm Post subject: |
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Condensation or even frost on the intake below the carb is normal due to the fuel inside evaporating.
Remove the vacuum line at the carb that goes to the distributor. Pop the dist top loose and over to one side from the distributor and suck on the vacuum line. Does the points plate rotate? Does it move fully and does it return slowly or quickly when you let off the vacuum?
Remove the air cleaner with engine off and work the throttle arm on the carb a little bit. Does the brass accelerator nozzle spray fuel or is it a weak stream or stopped up?
If the Beetle has sat for much more than a year, it is time to at least take all the brake cylinders apart for a good inspections and cleaning. Normal brake fluid attracts water right out of the air like a magnet sucks up steel filings. Water build up it rusts up the cylinders, rust in turn tears up rubber seals. The water can even turn to steam when braking heavily causing brake failure. So standard brake fluid should be replaced due to this every 2 years or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first.
You could switch to silicon brake fluid which does not attract water and have much longer lasting brake cylinders. Problem is switching between the two can result in ruined brake rubber parts if standard brake fluid was used before. Have taken brake systems apart, blown out the lines and let it all dry out over three weeks or more, and have had no problems then switching to silicon brake fluid.
Even then it is a good idea to bleed off some of the brake fluid every year or two to get out any water that might get in. Water does not mix with silicon break fluid, instead it settles into the lowest parts of the brake system, and thusly easy to get out. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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bugmandave Samba Member
Joined: December 30, 2005 Posts: 642 Location: Illinois
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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you need to hook up the warm air preheat hose to an original style air cleaner and that will help the carb from icing up. yours are blocked off in the engine picture . the two holes in the rear tin are for the preheat hoses yours looks to be from a 67 with a dual snorkel air cleaner. a stock 63 would only have one hose on the left side. _________________ '63 Karmann Cabriolet L456 Rubin (Ruby Red)
'71 Westfalia campmobile tourist delivery
January '59 SWR panel
'63 Karmann Cabriolet L54 Poppy Red |
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63vdubbug Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2015 Posts: 62 Location: Bay Area, CA
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 7:25 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks everyone.
I'm hoping to get some time to work on it this weekend. Do some of the suggestions all of you have made. Tune up the main thing. I will definitely check on the brakes as well.
allsidius - it's a single port.
gkutamodo - I'm in the bay area (peninsula). Yes, it was pretty awesome weather that day I took the picture. |
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rcooled Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2008 Posts: 2506 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 9:15 am Post subject: |
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Wow, I can't believe no one's told him to re-locate that fuel filter out of the engine compartment yet! You guys are slippin'...
Looks like your '63 has some good potential...and the price was right too! There's tons of excellent advice available on this site from people who really know these cars inside & out. Welcome to the VW world... _________________ '63 Ragtop (current)
'65 Ghia coupe (totaled)
'67 Ghia convertible (current)
'69.5 Ghia convertible and
'62, '63, '65, '69 Bugs (all long gone) |
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hitest Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2008 Posts: 10296 Location: Prime Meridian, ID
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 3:08 pm Post subject: |
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rcooled wrote: |
Wow, I can't believe no one's told him to re-locate that fuel filter out of the engine compartment yet! You guys are slippin'...
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That's awesome. But, Grandpa Pete hasn't discussed dual-circuit MCs yet either! Even more amazing!
'63's a great year. I'm on my 4th- and after 16+ years, it's a keeper. _________________
EverettB wrote: |
I wonder what the nut looks like.
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'62 L390 151, '62 L469 117, '63 L380 113, '64 L87 311, '65 L512 265, '65 L31 SO-42, '66 L360 251, '68 L30k 141, '71 L12 113, '74 ORG 181
FU#5 |
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117harv Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2009 Posts: 188 Location: MEDFORD OR.
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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hitest, that's exactly what I was thinking...lol |
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63vdubbug Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2015 Posts: 62 Location: Bay Area, CA
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 5:10 pm Post subject: |
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where do you guys recommend placing the fuel filter? the dual circuit MC was already brought up. |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24759 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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Under the fuel tank. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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bugmandave Samba Member
Joined: December 30, 2005 Posts: 642 Location: Illinois
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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I wonder do any of these guys that recommend dual circuit master cylinders actually know of a well maintained single circuit failure or are they on a mission to tell everyone in the forums just because it sounds good? Why stop there. Just tell everybody to buy a new car with airbags and antilock brakes and park the old bug. Just saying. It's getting old. _________________ '63 Karmann Cabriolet L456 Rubin (Ruby Red)
'71 Westfalia campmobile tourist delivery
January '59 SWR panel
'63 Karmann Cabriolet L54 Poppy Red |
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rcooled Samba Member
Joined: September 20, 2008 Posts: 2506 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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Eric&Barb wrote: |
Under the fuel tank. |
Or splice it into the hose that connects the hard line from the chassis to the one that runs to the engine's fuel pump. It's located right next to the transaxle on the driver's side. _________________ '63 Ragtop (current)
'65 Ghia coupe (totaled)
'67 Ghia convertible (current)
'69.5 Ghia convertible and
'62, '63, '65, '69 Bugs (all long gone) |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24759 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2015 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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bugmandave wrote: |
I wonder do any of these guys that recommend dual circuit master cylinders actually know of a well maintained single circuit failure or are they on a mission to tell everyone in the forums just because it sounds good? |
Yes, we know of several instances. Lots easier to be able to stop with 40% or 60% of the brakes, instead of none. Lots easier than to have to pull out or replace the front of the VW. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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