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Screen to simulate oil cooler
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JPro62
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 9:01 pm    Post subject: Screen to simulate oil cooler Reply with quote

I read through a couple dozen threads on shrouds and oil coolers, but can't find any images of what I'm looking for. I have a 2332cc that is already set-up for a remote cooler. The previous owner had an angled shroud and no oil filter. I picked up a Scat non doghouse 36hp shroud. I understand that for it to work properly I need to have the oil cooler inside to keep the air pressure/flow correct. Several threads suggested just installing a screen to simulate the restriction of the cooler. Does anyone have pictures of how this was done?
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to read a little bit more and explain what you have a little better , is your motor full flowed ?? you don't have to run a factory oil cooler but there are too many ways of doing it .. first we need to know a little more about your set up .
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JPro62
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the motor is set-up for full flow. What other info should I provide to help?
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 12:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Screen to simulate oil cooler Reply with quote

JPro62 wrote:
I read through a couple dozen threads on shrouds and oil coolers, but can't find any images of what I'm looking for. I have a 2332cc that is already set-up for a remote cooler. The previous owner had an angled shroud and no oil filter. I picked up a Scat non doghouse 36hp shroud. I understand that for it to work properly I need to have the oil cooler inside to keep the air pressure/flow correct. Several threads suggested just installing a screen to simulate the restriction of the cooler. Does anyone have pictures of how this was done?


If you want to simulate the resistance to air flow to cylinders 3 and 4 that the stock oil cooler imposes, then maybe the thing to do is to install a cooler there, but block off the inlet so that oil does not flow thru it??????

thus you wont be getting pre-heated oar to # 3 and 4 as the oil cooler would be "cold".

I don't know if VW directed more air to the #3 and 4 side to compensate for the heat of the oil cooler, they may have, in which case the "cold cooler" idea may end up giving more cooling on side # 3 and 4 than on side # 1 and 2.

I guess ultimately you could find out what works best by installing head temp gages on both heads, and design a screen that assures even temperature side to side
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the Scat fan shroud even have the same airflow as a stock fan shroud?

I was looking at an aftermarket doghouse shroud which came with a K-Jetronic FI system in an eBay bundle of 'stuff' and it is crude compared with a VW stock item. One set of guide vanes rather than four.

Without the stock flaps etc acting as additional guide vanes, it is going to be better to check temperatures and then fitting some kind of baffle if the 3/4 side is really a lot cooler.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so... whay do you want to restrict the air to 3&4??????/??????? Shocked I think you miss under stand somethen.
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JPro62
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikedjames, the Scat shroud has the vanes inside it. I plan to install the flaps as well.

Mark tucker, from the threads I have read and articles on the various vw technical sites, the oil cooler is required because the shroud/vanes was designed to have it and removing it messes up the balance of the airflow.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The vains are there to maintain dynamic air pressure from the fan blades to the cylinder heads.

If you look at a cut down shroud ,vw used all the space they had for the space the shroud allows. The oil cooler looks like an addon and that is it to me. If you try to emulate the conditions off having the cooler in there like the factory, it will run hot just as their design did. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
so... whay do you want to restrict the air to 3&4??????/??????? Shocked I think you miss under stand somethen.


Nope, he has it perfectly clear.
The stock single port oil cooler inside the shroud acts as vanes as well as an oil cooler, when you run one with no oil cooler inside you screw up the air flow, hence a screen to simulate the oilcooler is needed.

You can just run without, it won't overheat (dad's has been setup like that for 17 years) but you won't get full life from the engine.
Gene berg found it raised the head temp on that side by 50f
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JPro62
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 5:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I don't have a non doghouse oil cooler that I can stick in place I would like to use a screen. (I know the are ~$20 used) Has anyone done this before? Photos of the set-up? Any real test data?
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

and a screen acts like vanes how????????????????????? sounds like too much internet experting and no real expearance. I searealy doubt the oe cooler acted like extra vanes in the shroud.& I realy dont thing you need to try duplicate it. why did the #3 run hot??? I have 2 new shrouds instock both wit&with out I'll look & try to see just what you guys think your seeing. but the vanes,fins,airfoils are for the air coming off the fan.... well i looked Shocked I dont see where any screen will do any thing but restrict air. yes the non has a lot less finnage.but I think that may be due to updates&changes made along with now having room for them since the cooler isant there. yes it did straighten the air but like the vanes...not realy and no reason to have the extra vanes there if it has a big boogger (aka cooler)in the way of the flow slowing the air(the vanes direct the highspeed air coming off the fan so it vcan make the turn), you could add a vane or deflector.and make sure it's all sealed up good so you arnt loosing air anywhere. or... get a dogystyle unit.or get a dead dogy style and see whats what so you can add to your shroud if your capeable. but theres more that what you tsee or think you see going on in there.no Im not an exspert, but ....are you trying to keep flies out of the head fins???
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would never try to modify any cooling system designed by VW. Aftermarket, go ahead and cut it up. It didn't work well anyway.

Use doghouse, non-doghouse, as long as it's made by VW, and you use all the correct pieces VW designed to go together.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All of this is interesting to read; all the while knowing, when VW added the cooler they also retarded the distributor cam to reduce the heat on the 3/4 side. That means they knew that reduced air flow and added heat from the cooler were a factor in the 3/4 side running hotter.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
sounds like too much internet experting and no real expearance.



Yeah that Gene Berg had no experience or testing with VW engines....... Laughing

Quote:
Removing the oil cooler inside of the fan housing (through 1970) raised the temperature at the 3/4 head as much as 50 degrees F above normal. That's right, it went up by 50 degrees, not down like the people selling outside coolers would like you to believe. In fact, upon looking at some of the ads for outside coolers they stated that the 3/4 head changed by 50 degrees, and never stated that it would cool better than stock. Air pressure (flow) was drastically reduced at the head and increased at the lower part of the 3/4 cylinders.

Even 1 and 2 temperature went up due to the lower restriction on 3 and 4. Further investigating inside the fan housing revealed that VW's air vortexes and directional vanes put the air in the exact locations needed at the correct velocity and that the cooler must be in place to direct the air over the cooler and along the top of the fan housing. This straightens it out to go down straight through the head and cylinder fins with the highest efficiency.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark Tucker, you're right, I am only going by what I have read. I have no test data. Just trying to follow the advice of other VW forum members. I never said the cooler acts as a vane. Maybe the lack of the cooler creates turbulance on the 3/4 side and slows the air flow? That is why I asked if anyone had testing info.

Howard 111, I don't have stock parts and I am trying to see if I can make the Scat shroud I already bought work properly.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[Yeah that Gene Berg had no experience or testing with VW engines....... Laughing
there is a lot he got rong too. but he is the formost expert on everything vw and there is undisputable proof.the internet. Im from outside the vw world just looking through a clean window.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I knew this thread was going to be a hit but what the hell , You don't need to run that factory oil cooler like I said before , install a by pass block in place of the oil cooler to simulate it and run a good oil cooler with a fan , you can use a thermo switch to turn fan on at a the proper temp and just make sure you monitor your temps . Gene Berg is ancient !!!! and we also run higher compression that 7 to 1 these days .
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Last edited by raul arrese on Wed Feb 25, 2015 5:30 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IIRC the oil cooler in non dog house has a screen right? Its sectioned in little squares that create laminar flow. Couldnt you just weld a plate that has those same holes?

Then again, that might bust your engine. Embarassed
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, you ought to change the title as it makes no sense. On the second or third day I realized what the title meant, and considered explaining why it's a stupid idea, but didn't. It should be self evident that if you want to "not disturb airflow" then a screen is the exact opposite.

Instead, since this has turned to the old "Gene says" game, why don't you look up the story of Bob Hoover, when he took out the oil cooler, replaced it with a vane or two, and showed Gene in person. now that's IRONY! and far as I know a true story
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't mess with aftermarket crap. A stock cooler and a OG 36hp shroud can be had for cheap in the classifieds. Block oil flow to the cooler and be done with it. Of coarse you will need to run a external full flow cooler.

I did this in 1980 to my 1957 356a. I bored the case to use vw/cima 90.5 and it cut into the case oil passage to the cooler Shocked "oh crap" so I made a dowel to fit all the way down to the hole in the bore and ran no oil in the cooler and the engine only has overheated once, when the external oil cooler thermostat failed. I now do all my engines this way. Not a scientific test but it has worked well for me.

Dan
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