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Good VW Mechanics in VA
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1973 412 WAGON
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 7:32 am    Post subject: Good VW Mechanics in VA Reply with quote

Any body know of any good VW Mechanics/shops in the Richmond VA Area? I need to have my 412 checked out. I have done a complete tune -up and she will not hold a steady idle. It fluctuates up and down but does stay running. I am new to the VW world. I have restored some muscle cars in the past but i will tell you this VW thing is different. I just want to get her right before i let the wife start driving it. And it is growing on me, cool little car for sure.
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19super73
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Save yourself some $$$ and check for the basics first. Test the fuel pressure, check for vacuum leaks, check your grounds and connections to the MAP etc.
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1970 Campmobile [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-47260.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1970 Fastback 1600 TL
1971 Doka [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-14845.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1973 Super Beetle
1973 Westfalia [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-31892.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1974 412 Variant
1975 La Grande Bug
1984 Vanagon
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. The likelihood of finding a mechanic that can properly expertly work on D-jet is about "0". Also finding a mechanic who has "some" experience with D-jet....which is hard to do.....will cost you large dollars in time simply because they will have to spend hours checking every last seal and item.

You can do all of this yourself with an $8 volt meter and a $10 pressure gauge and basic hand tools.
Long before you take this to a mechanic there are a lot of basic checks and putting things in order you can and should do.

Its kind of like getting yourself dressed and ready for an important meeting. You do all the basics. You dont arrive at the expert tailor shop to make the final serious alterations you cant do yourself.....and end up also paying him to shine your shoes and adjust your tie. Wink

Tell us what you have, what you have done and what condition its in. Ray
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kgarchivinusa
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 10:23 am    Post subject: Madison VA on Rt. 29 Reply with quote

These guys do good work on aircooled Volkswagen

http://www.northsiderestorations.com/
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1973 412 WAGON
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:24 am    Post subject: Mechanic in VA Reply with quote

Ray, I have replaced all vacuum lines. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points. Set timing flushed fuel tank out, fuel lines as well, replaced fuel filter and pump. Replaced brake lines and pads all around. Rebuilt transmission, flushed rear and refilled. She sounds like she has a vacuum leak but I can not locate. I am waiting on a new air filter bellows as mine has a crack in it. Found one in california.( Leak is not coming from the bellows ) It is currently at the paint shop getting done. Just trying to get her back on the road for spring. It is in great condition body wise, no rust holes any where. Somebody loved this car at one time. I just want to do my part and preserve it.
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Lars S
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with others...think we can help you a bit before engaging a workshop.
I had a similar fluctuating idle on my 412 which turned out to be a lean mixture, better cold worse hot.

Checked fuel pressure and the knob on top if the ECU?
Is it worse ir better when hot?

Lars S
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1973 412 WAGON
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 1:57 pm    Post subject: Mechanic in VA Reply with quote

Lars, I have not checked the fuel pressure yet, I will when it gets back from paint. Where is the ecu located and what does the knob do?
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 2:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Mechanic in VA Reply with quote

1973 412 WAGON wrote:
Ray, I have replaced all vacuum lines. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points. Set timing flushed fuel tank out, fuel lines as well, replaced fuel filter and pump. Replaced brake lines and pads all around. Rebuilt transmission, flushed rear and refilled. She sounds like she has a vacuum leak but I can not locate. I am waiting on a new air filter bellows as mine has a crack in it. Found one in california.( Leak is not coming from the bellows ) It is currently at the paint shop getting done. Just trying to get her back on the road for spring. It is in great condition body wise, no rust holes any where. Somebody loved this car at one time. I just want to do my part and preserve it.



So this is a 1974 with L-jet injection correct?

There is a lot of little items to do. The items I am about to suggest...A shop has no better abilities than you do.....and they will charge you a fortune....and still may not get it to run correctly "yet" just from finding the vacuum leaks.

You have remedial work to do before you take it to the shop....and their job will simply be to hook it up to the exhaust analyzer and tweak your fuel mixture.

Vacuum leaks to check:

If you have not replaced these seals...then they are 100% suspect...as they cannot be verified easily visually or with a leak check. Its best to start with new, clamp every connection and replace when they show signs of age.

The object is to "know" what it isn't whenever issues start.

Throttle body to plenum o-ring

Throttle shaft seal

Intake runner boots

Injector tip seals...and use CIS injector seals from about a mid 8's rabbit or 90 model VW fox (asking for those will get you what you need)...at worst....use the Echlin brad injector seal kits from NAPA. All other stock seals suck....not a material issue..a fit issue.

Intake runner to head gaskets and phenolic block gaskets

Oil breather tower cork gasket

Valve cover gaskets. Adhere them to clean valve covers with very thin high temp RTV...none on the engine side

Check your AAR valve. It must fully close

Check your fuel pressure at idle with hose on and off. it should be low as per the book at idle and high when you rev it

Check the vacuum advance can that it holds vacuum

Check the PCV diaphragm....that mushroom looking thing on the oil breather. check its function in the book.

All vacuum hoses should be new. No old hoses. Clamp every single hose.

Check your CHT sensor hot and cold and check your intake sensor hot and cold for resistance.

Check the ground wire bundles spade connectors at the case centerline under the intake plenum.

Start with these. Ray
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1973 412 WAGON
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 6:23 am    Post subject: Mechanic in VA Reply with quote

Thanks Ray, when it comes back from paint I will start checking the items you listed. I have replaced every vacuum hose already. Some things you mentioned i have no clue what the are. I have been restoring/playing with muscle cars for years this is my first VW. sO I WILL HAVE A LOT OF QUESTIONS. I have the chiltons already and spring is right around the corner. Thanks for the good info.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 9:05 am    Post subject: Re: Mechanic in VA Reply with quote

1973 412 WAGON wrote:
Thanks Ray, when it comes back from paint I will start checking the items you listed. I have replaced every vacuum hose already. Some things you mentioned i have no clue what the are. I have been restoring/playing with muscle cars for years this is my first VW. sO I WILL HAVE A LOT OF QUESTIONS. I have the chiltons already and spring is right around the corner. Thanks for the good info.


No problem! There are lots of good people here with a lot of experience.

A couple things it will help to think about....with these engines...in comparison to the V-8 world....is volumetric size and fuel metering system.

A V-8 has a lot of volume running through say...a multiplane type manifold. And...usually you are dealing with carburetors. Small seeping leaks at accessory hoses on a V-8 may cause no problems at all unless they are someppace critial like at a carb to manifold base or in one of the, circuits of the carb. And as you know having vacuum leaks on the carb anywhere are critical vacuum leaks because the carb is the whole metering system.

These 4 cylinder plenum based fuel Injected engines have much smaller volumes in the manifold at any, given time....and the intake runners and plenum volumes are fairly well tuned for size.....so a vacuum leak can upset that easily.

Also on these engines....the fuel "metering" system is external to the manifold and seperate from the "air metering" system.....so any really small vacuum leaks are bypassing the metering system. This causes magnified problems as compared to what the same tiny vacuum leaks would cause to a carbed V-8.

Another thing we will get into when you are ready.....is some inspection of the distributor. They are pretty robust...but they are also fairly low voltage. Just adequate. Any little thjng cab cause losses. There are a few small details that can help. Ray
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1973 412 WAGON
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 11:47 am    Post subject: Mechanic in VA Reply with quote

Ray it is an L-jet injection. Do you now what rims size this thing came with I found a set of NOS Brazilian 4x130 bolt pattern,15x5.5 and was wondering if they would fit my 412
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19super73
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

L-jet. It's a '74 then.

You need to download this. I found it and sent it to Everett to add to the site.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/afc_typeiv.php
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1970 Campmobile [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-47260.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1970 Fastback 1600 TL
1971 Doka [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-14845.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1973 Super Beetle
1973 Westfalia [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-31892.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1974 412 Variant
1975 La Grande Bug
1984 Vanagon
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2015 2:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Mechanic in VA Reply with quote

1973 412 WAGON wrote:
Ray it is an L-jet injection. Do you now what rims size this thing came with I found a set of NOS Brazilian 4x130 bolt pattern,15x5.5 and was wondering if they would fit my 412


That should fit. Its what I use on mine...but let me check the ET on mine this evening to make sure. Ray
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bradself
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 1:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My chrome 5.5 Mangels have a 4.25 back space.
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mfergel
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bug Haus
Richmond, VA 23224
804-232-8989
Mon-Fri 8am-6pm
(Owned by Moonie Ronnie Pugh)

Ronnie is on Facebook as well if you want to contact him that way.

Bug Haus has been in business since 1974. I have worked for Bug Haus since 1992. I took over ownership Jan. 06. We do full restoration on all VWs. Major and minor repairs. We have new and used parts. We also have VWs for sale. We do any and all types of rust repair. From minor body rust to floor pans and heater channels. No job too small or too big. We take all major credit cards. Shipping available.
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19super73
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many Type 4's has Bug Haus worked on in your time there and how/where do they source parts?
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1970 Campmobile [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-47260.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1970 Fastback 1600 TL
1971 Doka [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-14845.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1973 Super Beetle
1973 Westfalia [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-31892.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1974 412 Variant
1975 La Grande Bug
1984 Vanagon
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1973 412 WAGON
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 6:24 am    Post subject: Mechanic Reply with quote

Ray,
Do you recommend buying a NOS master cylinder for my 412? Someone has one posted for sale, but i thought i had read a post where you said do not buy one. If not where can i get a rebuild kit for my 1973?
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 9:00 am    Post subject: Re: Mechanic Reply with quote

1973 412 WAGON wrote:
Ray,
Do you recommend buying a NOS master cylinder for my 412? Someone has one posted for sale, but i thought i had read a post where you said do not buy one. If not where can i get a rebuild kit for my 1973?


Unless your cylinder has serious rust issues....and it might.....do not buy an NOS cylinder. Take your cylinder apart and inspect it. If it has been leaking at the open end.....chances are it has a rusted pitted ring in the area where the first seal rests when your foot is off the brake.
You can hone it "lightly". You want no rust pits any deeper than about .001" to .003"....and certainly very few in the outer seal area.
If the cylinder is unrusted......you can lap it smooth with 600 grit or finer.

The pistons and springs should be fine for now. You want to disassemble them carefully. Make sure that the pistons have no corrosion that makes a rough surface in the areas that seal against the brass flap valves or in areas against the seals. You can clean those areas up with 000 steel wool.

So if you still have a smooth un pitted cylinder and good sealing areas on the pistons..... you can use a seal kit for a 1972/1973 VW type 3.....seals only.....throw the pistons away. They are different. This will work just fine.

One thing.....Rockauto has a Centric brand rebuilt cylinder for $97. Centric does pretty good work. They are also a relatively new company...maybe 10-12 years. That would make this a recent rebuild. There is a high chance this one would be fine. Rockauto also has a Schaefer type 3 rebuild kit for $25.

Personally....if this vehicle is planned to be driven and the master cylinder is holding you back and you are not sure yet if your old one is usable.....$125 total investment gets you the Centric master cylinder to install now and a spare set of seals to rebuild the old one or hold in reserve to rebuild the centric when the time comes....and hopefully it uses the same sealw. Ray
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1973 412 WAGON
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:46 pm    Post subject: Mechanic Reply with quote

Ray is the centric listed under a 412 on rock auto? What about the seal kit?
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 4:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Mechanic Reply with quote

1973 412 WAGON wrote:
Ray is the centric listed under a 412 on rock auto? What about the seal kit?


No seal kit listed for 412.....but the type 3 schafer seal kit is the identical seals and boots. I have rebuilt 411 and 412 master cylinders with those seals numerous times.

You can find the type 3 seal kit under 1972 type 3. Yes...the Centric master cylinder is listed under 1973 VW 412. All type 4 master cylinders are the same for any year without power brakes.

Also....long ago I gkt in the good habit of taking brand new master cylinders, wheel cylinders and calipers and disassembling them and cleaning them in, denatured alcohol. Then assemhle right, before bench bleeding and install using, freah fluid or brake paste. You would be stunned at the crap you find inside some of these. Ray
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