Getting Lilcar ready for an 1800 mile road trip this summer

wcfvw69 · Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:37 pm Post subject:

IDK,

To me, most of those items can be checked or changed PRIOR to your departure. For me, I'd want to do a lot of those inspections or changes in the comfort of my garage vs. the side of a highway. People should always change their clutch and accelerator cables if they are not aware of how old they are. Most of the parts on this list should be inspected and or replaced with the best quality of parts you can buy before any departure on a long trip.

My VW's all have been gone thru top to bottom mechanically. I like to keep them in the condition of having to use one tomorrow to drive across country.

The only spares I think I'd carry are-

*Fuel pump
*Fan belt
*Points and condensor
*My credit card

I posted a question once on this site a few years ago. I asked "what's left you on the side of the road during a road trip in an old VW".. A long time VW mechanic replied simply to the question- "POOR PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE".

Most of the replies to the post were items that that fall into his reply.

IMOP, a 40+ year old VW can be just as reliable as the car was when it was only a couple of years old. Anyone buying a used one should go thru everything mechanically on the car. If they do, are compentant in working on it with good parts, it should be very reliable. Millions of folks drove these VW's all over the country in the 60's, 70's and 80's without incident. I'd wager that most carried no spare parts either. Smile

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bobnorman · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 5:52 am Post subject:

I would add that you should do a bit of research, and find a few garages/places for parts. You're not going to the moon; just like in your own neighbourhood, there are lots of friendly VW folks that can help you if you know where they are. Develop a network, ask a few questions about garages with ACVW knowledge, you may find that outside of emergency repair stuff (to get you to a garage or VW friend) you may need to bring very little, plus you may very well be asked in for a cup o’ tea and make a life-long friend to boot. Wink

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moogie32 · Posted: Tue Mar 24, 2015 6:01 am Post subject:

All points well taken - Bill's list stems from countless cross country journeys and as he points out generally the kit doesn't get touched. He insists that participants on his tours have well prepared vehicles and that is absolutely my plan - There have only been a handful of times people have broken down on previous tours and it mostly stemmed from little preparation ahead of time on a car which was driven infrequently.
Great idea about researching in advance places that could potentially offer help or repair. Tea and conversation is intriguing as well!
Thanks for your input guys!
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moogie32 · Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 4:59 pm Post subject:

So I have a question - I need to supply hardware for the top to be installed. Most of what's there has been replaced with non original. The Bentley manual says that the screws are phillips head but doesn't give more detail. What sort of head should I have? Specifically I am looking for the 12 screws which attach the header plate to the front bow and these are visible after installation. Should the heads be flat or rounded? I was all set to buy them today and decided to wait because the choices were plentiful.....
Thanks guys!
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RIP HBB (1984-2009)
Du liefst so gut
Du warst so schön
Doch leider musst du von uns gehn

Rome · Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 6:37 pm Post subject:

Hey moogie! My '64 Ghia has what appears to be the original screws and trim washers. I went into the garage, pulled back the boot, and removed one. Give me about 10 minutes to massage the photos and post them here, at which time I'll also provide detailed dimensions. I'd send the info to you anyway per email but others here might also need these details.

Rome · Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 7:03 pm Post subject:

Here you go.

The 12 screws holding the header interior panel to the header itself. Photo shows the 6 screws on the left/driver's side of the top. Even though my Ghia received an NOS vinyl top and a new headliner in 1986, it appears that the original factory screws and trim washers were reused.

Screw: #1 Phillips, chromed. Total length 26.5mm (1.04"), thread length 23.9mm (0.94"), thread overall OD 3.40mm (0.13"), head OD 6.7mm (0.26").

Trim washer: OD 9.6mm (0.38"), hole ID 3.9mm (0.15"), height 2.1mm (0.081").

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

tri356 · Samba Member Joined: December 28, 2005 Posts: 319

From what I have been able to tell, the transition from flat-blade to phillips happened right around the '62/63 change - I have no idea how to narrow it down further. I tried to do a little research to see if the DIN standards changed around that time, but couldn't figure it out.

Jeff (Fairview) used to have a number of his original '62 (early 62 I believe) pictures up (Jeff, they need to go back up Smile

), and the screws in his header were flat (oval head, but flat-blade, not phillips).

Mine is an October '62 ghia. I had phillips heads screws in the door sills and in the B pillar screws (attachment screws around the rear seat side panels) - I *think* they were original. In any case, for whatever reason, I went with flat-blade screws for the header in my car. I have a bunch of them left over (and others too). I can send over whatever you need.

Thanks
Mike

moogie32 · Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 8:38 pm Post subject:

Rome and Mike - Thank you so much for this! Really nice pictures of what should be there and Mike - wow - I would be very interested in buying what you have - I will send you a PM. Thank so much!
Rome - love the decal on your header plate - what does it say? Mine is long gone!
_________________
RIP HBB (1984-2009)
Du liefst so gut
Du warst so schön
Doch leider musst du von uns gehn

moogie32 · Posted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 6:26 pm Post subject:

Got some small things done today - with only 2 weeks before the top gets installed preparations for that are a priority. I went through my list of hardware I still need and now that I know for certain I can get that this week. Tomorrow I will order the catch hook Chuck sells - I was able to get the rest of the part off a '69 convertible my brother owns which I have sort of been using as a parts car with the understanding when I am done I will help him sell it. I assembled to header plate and with Rome's assistance found screws to attach the washer that goes around the crank. Installed coat hooks, intermediate bow bumpers and hold down hooks.

I then decided it was time to tackle installing the rubber boot around my horns. I really had never paid much attention to them before but when I went to remove them to my complete horror discovered instead of Bosch horns I was the proud owner of a pair of Spartons. Never heard of them? Me neither! A call to my brother and another few purloined parts from his car and I now have some nice but very dirty 12 volt Ghia horns and (drum roll please) a original and still very supple boot. Got some cleaning to do but happy I'll have the real Bosch deal.

(notice the dark metallic blue? Blast from her past!)

_________________
RIP HBB (1984-2009)
Du liefst so gut
Du warst so schön
Doch leider musst du von uns gehn

moogie32 · Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 7:09 pm Post subject:

A few things accomplished this weekend - hard because of the holiday. Mike (Tri356) was kind enough to send me a number of very good pictures of an original late '62 Ghia and I am now convinced that my header plate screws should all be slotted and not phillips head. That's a good thing because it means I have 8 out of the 12 screws and Mike is graciously sending me the missing 4. The other thing I realized is that the nasty covering on the plate is actually original so I spent the weekend refinishing it. check out a before and after of the finished piece - I still have to add the extra screws and glue down the end pieces but what an improvement!

We also got the seats tracks lubricated and the seats installed and even got her started and outside for the first time in months. Nice to finally have the snow gone! She goes in for a new top in a week. Still a bunch of things I'd like to get done before then - we'll see if that happens.....
Before....

After

Seats installed

and just a few overall pics

_________________
RIP HBB (1984-2009)
Du liefst so gut
Du warst so schön
Doch leider musst du von uns gehn

RichElliott · Posted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 1:31 pm Post subject:

moogie32 · Posted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 1:24 am Post subject:

Thanks, Rich! Just wait 'til she's got a top on! Very Happy

_________________
RIP HBB (1984-2009)
Du liefst so gut
Du warst so schön
Doch leider musst du von uns gehn

moogie32 · Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 5:06 am Post subject:

Got a question for everyone - The area where my back seat hinges attach to the body has been a mangled broken mess since I got her and before the top gets installed I need to do something about it. I showed this to a guy who is going to put a brace under the area tomorrow and weld it in place and he wondered what the hole next to the hinged area was for, surmising it's an access area of some kind. Obviously if it wasn't there he could add more metal and since it's original I'd like it left as is but what is this hole for? It's on both sides. Has anyone else had issues with the hinge area failing like mine did?

_________________
RIP HBB (1984-2009)
Du liefst so gut
Du warst so schön
Doch leider musst du von uns gehn

sputnick60 · Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 12:36 pm Post subject:

That hole allows access to a body bolt immediately beneath it. You'd have a socket on a long extension reach it and turn it with a ratchet.

Towards resolving the problem in that area, I would suggest a simple use of another piece of metal, maybe with threaded holes underneath, so it sandwiches the damaged section with the painted stainless hinge.

On my car, from original, the hinge is turned around so it fits into the gap and doesn't poke up like that. Also the hinge is not as close to the hole. Its front edge lines up with the back edge of that adjacent wide groove in the panel..

See these photos from my car. The small one is cropped from a much larger image so forgive the low res look. I notice mine had the metal "bridge" broken in the same spot at the corner.

You might only need to move it forward to solve your problem.

Nicholas.
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moogie32 · Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 1:54 pm Post subject:

Hi Nicholas,
Thank you so much for your pictures and suggestions. That hole being an access to a body bolt makes perfect sense. Interesting that by 1966 they figured out the previous set up was flawed.
One thing though - I don't think I would be able to move my hinges forward and still retain the motion of the seat. Wouldn't moving the pivot point also change the arc and force the part that was previously hinged downward?
I am probably not explaining this well and physics class was a long time ago....
Diane
_________________
RIP HBB (1984-2009)
Du liefst so gut
Du warst so schön
Doch leider musst du von uns gehn

sputnick60 · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 1:43 am Post subject:

Though it seems that there might be a problem, there actually isn't. Thats because quite a large gap exists between the lower edge of the folding back and the rear edge of the seat.

So what you can do is lay the back of the seat down and push it in as much as you can. Then fit the hinges ( pointy end down) between the gaps and lined up with the panel (like I described earlier). Like that, screw it all together.

With the hinge slightly higher up the back, the bottom edge of the back will dip down a little deeper. It will work because there is plenty of clearance. I did it that way, it worked for me.

Nicholas
_________________
'66 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet...
'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

moogie32 · Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 4:47 am Post subject:

Thanks Nicholas! That makes sense - forward placement would definitely make the seat back end up lower as a result in the change of pivot point. I am going to the welder in 5 minutes - if we need to change the hinge location we will. I really appreciate your advice!
Diane
_________________
RIP HBB (1984-2009)
Du liefst so gut
Du warst so schön
Doch leider musst du von uns gehn

moogie32 · Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 6:33 pm Post subject:

Well, Lilcar is officially off to get a new top! Just delivered her to Redan Upholstery in Newington CT where Ken promises he'll do a great job on her and also send me pictures as he works on her. I've waited for this moment for the past 5 years and I have to say it's a little scary - Got a tour of the place and saw the other cars they are working on and their work is excellent - just hope it all goes smoothly....
Got a decent amount of stuff done this weekend, most notably the rear seat hinge area welded. John at Stony Creek Auto in Stony Creek Ct did an amazing job - you would never know there was an issue with the area at all. He spend about 2 hours on her and once I got her back I sanded the area down, applied Masterseries, and painted it today before I left for Redan. I also got both pillar seals in and the trunk seal glued in. Another area with surface rust is around the master cylinder reservoir and into the spare tire area - got that sanded and applied Master series but didn't have time to paint this morning.
I'll post top pictures as I get them....
pillar seals - what a nasty job! Not as clean as I would like it so maybe when I have more time I'll redo it - in the meantime it's better than what was there originally....

And rear seat hinge area after welding

after Masterseries

and done!

_________________
RIP HBB (1984-2009)
Du liefst so gut
Du warst so schön
Doch leider musst du von uns gehn

modelttouring · Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 10:46 pm Post subject:

Great looking Ghia I always carry a spare accelerator cable and clutch cable for my Ghia on any trips. You never know, enjoy your trip.

moogie32 · Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:39 am Post subject:


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