2027 build questions for a VW newb

[pitdad22]

Hi all.

I've rebuilt small block chev's before but I'm new to VW's.

I have a sandrail that I recently purchased for my daughter to run that had a worn out stock 1600 in it with a broken valve spring tired crank and cracked heads.... So on....

I would like to upgrade the engine without totally blowing my budget but I also don't want to do it twice. I've been doing a bunch of reading and it sounds like the best thing to do is NOT just throw slip in cylinders but to go ahead and machine the case for 90.5's and since the crank is tired I was thinking of stroking it while I was at it probably have the clearance job done at the same time by Rimco or VW brothers or???

I was looking at the SCAT Volkstroker III Cast setup which is a 2027cc setup with 90.5's and a 78.8mm crank. I was thinking the SCAT C25 cam to keep the power down low since with the cast crank and relatively stock heads it won't be an RPM screamer.

My heads are stock dual port that I was going to put the rocker shim kit on and get rid of the wavy washers. I have dual Dellorto FRD 34 carbs. Tranny in the sandrail is a 3 rib bus IRS bus tranny.

But I have a few questions for all of you that are much more experienced than I...

Is this a decent engine setup that should be a good combo for sand?

When adjusting the deck height what am I shooting for?

How to you determine the length to trim the push rods too?

I've read that I should stay with the 8mm head studs to allow stretch and prevent pullout... do I need case savers installed or are heli-coils just needed for fixing a pulled thread?

Why can't you just buy the right crank, rod and piston combo with the wrist pin in the correct location to keep from shimming cylinders???... sorry chevy guy whinning...

Any advice does this all sound correct, anything else I need to know???

[[email protected]]

Post a picture of your case.

Do NOT use a cast crank. The forged crank will cost another $100, and is more than worth it.

If you are going to clearance the case, go 82mm stroke (not 78 ). Clearancing is the same for both.

Different cases require different "clean up cuts" when boring for larger cylinders, so there is no "Standard" to go on. It is what it is. Don't fight it. Order shims AFTER you mock up the engine. Same with push rod length.
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[pitdad22]

Question regarding the push rods. SCAT sends them with the kit are those designed to have end caps pulled out and then cut down the tubes on a lathe? And... how do you know what length they should be?? what should the rocker geometry be in the TDC condition?

Anyway here are the case pics:

Thanks!

[ekacpuc]

The pushrods are the ones you cut to length. One end is left off. Remember chromoly PRs are set to a loose zero lash. I prefer aluminum.

I almost bought that volksracer kit in the same size but opted to buy individual pieces to save cash and get exactly what I wanted.

The c25 was a great cam in my old 1776 (in a class 11 look alike built for trails). I didn't have to give it much throttle risking burning out and loosing traction. I'm currently waiting on the parts to build my 2007cc (for same bug) and did go with a larger cam because its a stoker you could get away with a little more. I do have a 3 rib bus transmission waiting to go in, if the cam is lazy the gears will hide it. I don't think you could go wrong with the c25 though.

[pitdad22]

Do you have a list of the parts you bought that I might plagarize

[stan_tichomirov]

I test-fitted a CB 76mm crank with 5.5 SCAT i-beams I have, and it all fit together with almost no clearancing of the case. With 94mm B pistons and .060" cylinder shims the deck is at .043" -- if your case isn't decked you may not even need cylinder spacers.

I may have the crank and rods for sale soon because I've decided to attempt an 82mm crank instead.

Stan
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[Marv [UK]]

I've got a bus with a 2017 in it with a scat C35 cam. Bags of low end, 110hp at the flywheel and runs out of puff just past 5000 revs. It's a pretty good size. I'm running DRLA's. With the smaller FRD carbs, a C25 would do well but you would be dragging the use able rev range down towards 4500 which would probably be a good thing in a rail. I'd say your probably going to come in at around 90 hp
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[pitdad22]

Thanks for all the input!

One question I have is on the push rods are the stock aluminum push rods okay to use with a Scat C25 or 100 grind cam? When should you not use them?

And... How do I know if I need to use trim to length push rods... If I run out of adjustment screw or am I looking at a particular rocker geometry?

[ekacpuc]

I ran a c25 with hd single springs and stock pushrods just fine.

Search geometry for the pushrod length answer. You use a adjustable pushrod and set your valve geometry so the adjusters are in a straight line with the valves. You could shim the rockers but ideally you'll want the adjusters almost all the way screwed in when you get the proper geometry. If you get custom pushrods don't use shims, just make the pushrod the correct length without shims.

I got everything from aircooled.net. I have heads but the chamber sizes aren't right for a stroker, no squish/quench with a .080" deck and a .050ish step.

ACN L3 heads

4140 78mm crank (4140 is a compromise, at least it isn't cast)

4340 scat 5.5" rods. You want em longer than stock so u can shim for deck height instead of machining anything.

Redline weber idfs setup by John

Gasket set with flywheel seal

Flywheel shim kit

Rocker arm shim kit (have a empi solid shaft kit already, works fine)

Chromoly gland nut with 36mm head

90.5mm AA pistons/cyls (b pistons iirc, it's for a stroker)

Kolbenschmidt rod bearing

Silverline mains (steel backed)

Web 163 on a 108lsa (105 be better for you)

Scat 72g lifters


Plus I got a engine hardware kit, cam plug, oil cooler seals (gasket kits come with two)

[mcdragracer]

My suggestion with the FRD carbs though, you should dump them and get a set of 40 Dells, if your budget able's you to, you would be so much happier, more power and much smoother.

[Marv [UK]]

[SoCalJes]

[jbbugs]

While you are having the case clearanced, have it drilled, tapped, and case saver installed.
Otherwise, you are wasting your time and money.
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[jbbugs]

While you are having the case clearanced, have it drilled, tapped, and case saver installed.
Otherwise, you are wasting your time and money.
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[pitdad22]

Thanks guys for the input. on the 34 FRD's any idea what I should jet them as a starting point elevation sea level average temp 60 deg F

I ended up starting with the 100 grind engle cam

Dual port long reach heads with 40 x 35.5 valves

90.5 pistons, 78 stroke crank, and 5.4 Rods.

I'll try and shim to about 8.5 to 1

[jfats808]

Everyone has given great suggestions. To highlight some certain aspects of your build and since its going into a rail:

-Keep the cam light. Engle 100, Scat 25 or 35. Web might have a few grinds too.
-Lifters Id use for this build would be either Empi billets or Brazil resolence lifters. Cb carries these.
-Have the case clearanced, full flowed and case savers put in
-Invest the minimal additional $$ associated with spending on a forged crank. Many of have good experience using a cast crank, but imo its better for a forged crank in the long run. I have used some of these components and found it to be a nice bang for the buck:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=598753

-Stock aluminum pushrods wont work without ridiculous shimming. You'll have to run CTF(cut to fit) chromoly or CTF HD aluminum pushrods and complete valve train geometry
-A weber dual 40 or Dell 40 set up is a great investment and worthwhile performance upgrade that will also give you a bump in economy/mpg. A set up HPMX can do the trick as well but Im partial to dells.
-Stock heads and valves will work fine, get them looked at if they require a rebuild. Now is the time. For another 100-150 a "fluff and buff" port job could help the power range and low end capabilities.
-If the case is clearanced, stock rods rebuilt if needed can do the trick and work just fine.
-Get the rotational parts balanced. Pistons, flywheel, crank, rods etc. An AA
"b" set will work just fine for this build.
-Converting the stock rocker assemblies to HD is a great idea.
-A Sachs clutch kit is fine for this build.
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