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moosemeat Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2009 Posts: 32 Location: MASSACHUSETTS
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 2:45 pm Post subject: Need help trying to choose the right dual carburator setup |
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Can anyone give me some advice on choosing a dual carburator for a1600cc this is going on a 1974 vw bug? Right now I'm running a progressive, which to me seems more like a higher fuel guzzling 34 pict 3.
I was looking into purchasing either the Empi carbs- Dual 34 EPCs or 3285 Solex Carbs - Dual 34mm with Electric Chokes (dual port)
I live up in New England and feel that I may need the chokes'
I've also heard that the linkages are not that great on the solex/kadrons.
Do you think that 34's are a good choice for my stock 1600 engine or should I use larger ones? _________________ Keep on buggin' |
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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moosemeat Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2009 Posts: 32 Location: MASSACHUSETTS
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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Brian wrote: |
Which distributor do you have? |
Well, I tried the 009 but I couldn't get the engine to run right flat spot and it would not idle down correctly after the timing was set with the throttle up, couldn't get it down below 1100 rpms. The progressive carburetor does have a vacuum port also... So to get the idle down to about 900 rpms, I'm now using a sva distributor with a petronix electronic ignition module inside (it's nothing too awfully fancy). I still have the 009 distributor in storage and wouldn't mind getting a combo vacuum/centrifugal sometime. _________________ Keep on buggin'
Last edited by moosemeat on Sun Mar 01, 2015 6:32 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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burdpete Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007 Posts: 544 Location: Nebraska
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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I have a pair of Kadrons with manifolds, scat linkage and air cleaners that I am taking to the swap meet this weekend. $350.00 shipped. _________________ 72 Beetle |
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moosemeat Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2009 Posts: 32 Location: MASSACHUSETTS
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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Maybe the 009 was a dud (it's an older one) and I'm just using the wrong distributor? the progressive calls for a 009 but will work with a vacuum advance also. _________________ Keep on buggin' |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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Perhaps a set of small dual kads or Weber ICTs (both 1BBLs) with a SVDA? They work well together. |
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mountainkowboy Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2008 Posts: 951 Location: Socal
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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Kads......simple and easy to run _________________ Chuck in Socal
________________________________________
71 Super Convertible...DD
78 Honda CB750K
06 Honda CR-V (wifes)
63 IH Scout 80 "Beater" |
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moosemeat Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2009 Posts: 32 Location: MASSACHUSETTS
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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mountainkowboy wrote: |
Kads......simple and easy to run |
so do you think that the 34s would be fine? _________________ Keep on buggin' |
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Brian Samba Moderator
Joined: May 28, 2012 Posts: 8340 Location: Oceanside
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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Yea, but you need to match your cam, distributor and carbs. do not go back to a new 009. just don't.
I wanna say that a 019 and 34s would be fine. I've heard some good things about 40's but I don't know. But yea, those kads would probably work fine for you.
If you need a 019, I'm willing to part on that. Not too many miles on it after a rebuild from our resident distributor re-builder Glenn. _________________ Wash your hands
'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper
Only losers litter |
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Multi69s Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 5364 Location: Lefty, CA
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Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 11:51 pm Post subject: |
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As far as size, 34s would be about perfect for a stock 1600. There is absolutely no reason to go larger, unless you have hop up plans in the future. Hell I am running dual 34mm ICTs on a 2000cc type 4 engine. The main question is "What type of engine do you want?" This is a response that I gave to someone else that had a similar question
From what I think I see from your post is to have a motor that is fairly close to stock, but with a little more zip. If this is correct, then you really need to take whether the carbs have a choke very seriously.
I haven't used a choke in probably 30 years, So the starting procedure is something like this. Pump the throttle pedal 5 or 6 times before trying to start. When it starts, lightly feather the throttle to keep it running (no high revs), it will not idle at this point unless it is pig rich. Then when you come to your first stop sign and it is close to your start point, the engine will probably die. That is unless you are good at the two step (right toes on the brakes, and heal on the throttle), then you can apply the brakes and blip the throttle at the same time. Then after a few miles, manifold heat will come in, warm the carb, and things will start to run right. Of course, the time frame will be on how the carb / carbs are jetted and the outside temp. So if the motor is close to stock, then having chokes will make the morning starts a much more relaxed driving affair. _________________ 69 road Bug 2110
73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
My builds
T4 into Squareback http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458944&highlight=
Auto Trans Rebuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516066&highlight=
AC in Squareback https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight= |
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moosemeat Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2009 Posts: 32 Location: MASSACHUSETTS
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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 3:27 am Post subject: |
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Multi69s wrote: |
As far as size, 34s would be about perfect for a stock 1600. There is absolutely no reason to go larger, unless you have hop up plans in the future. Hell I am running dual 34mm ICTs on a 2000cc type 4 engine. The main question is "What type of engine do you want?" This is a response that I gave to someone else that had a similar question
From what I think I see from your post is to have a motor that is fairly close to stock, but with a little more zip. If this is correct, then you really need to take whether the carbs have a choke very seriously.
I haven't used a choke in probably 30 years, So the starting procedure is something like this. Pump the throttle pedal 5 or 6 times before trying to start. When it starts, lightly feather the throttle to keep it running (no high revs), it will not idle at this point unless it is pig rich. Then when you come to your first stop sign and it is close to your start point, the engine will probably die. That is unless you are good at the two step (right toes on the brakes, and heal on the throttle), then you can apply the brakes and blip the throttle at the same time. Then after a few miles, manifold heat will come in, warm the carb, and things will start to run right. Of course, the time frame will be on how the carb / carbs are jetted and the outside temp. So if the motor is close to stock, then having chokes will make the morning starts a much more relaxed driving affair. |
Yeah was looking for a little more zip for climbing hills and am planning on leaving the engine stock with stock cams
I will probably need the electric chokes I run my bug from early spring to the first snowfall, and some mornings can be quite nippy _________________ Keep on buggin' |
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moosemeat Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2009 Posts: 32 Location: MASSACHUSETTS
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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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Two more questions
Should I need to run a tube or rubber hose to combine both intake manifolds to equalize vacuum?
And how does one know if your carbs need to be re-jetted, I would think by either exhaust smoke color or spark plug color black= running too rich or white= running too lean? _________________ Keep on buggin' |
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andrewvwclassic Samba Member
Joined: January 25, 2012 Posts: 920 Location: los angeles
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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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Hey man good choices for. your setup. I have a similar setup with a w100 cam and I am going with the 34 epc's from empi. I live in a warmer climate and could get away without the choke, but like the above poster said you should be ok after it warms up. I have not finished my motor but dont take me as an example to follow since I have changed some parts out for better ones to compensate for extra hp. if you want plug and play just get a bbk and upjet your stock carb. unless your engine has the durations i dont think carbs alone will help you much on the hills, but I dont really know. most of the performance tuners here would laugh at my biuld but it is better than stock. Most of the pics you see of these guys motors are timid looking from above but have more inside. dont let the simple motor with the dualy's tucked neatly on the side fool you about what these guys do. take your time and resaerch before going on with your upgrades. I personally would tune my motor around the 009 regardless of the setbacks because it is cheap easily accessible simple and strong.I kinda feel that vavacuum cans fall under the catagory of a reliability issue but science would have you beleive different. All of this goes out the window though on a perf. engine that can consume the amount of power needed to keep your engine working on a mechanical only advance. it all comes down what you can get away with and what you cant. |
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Multi69s Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 5364 Location: Lefty, CA
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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 11:32 pm Post subject: |
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moosemeat wrote: |
Two more questions
Should I need to run a tube or rubber hose to combine both intake manifolds to equalize vacuum?
And how does one know if your carbs need to be re-jetted, I would think by either exhaust smoke color or spark plug color black= running too rich or white= running too lean? |
As far as the equalization tube, yes you definitely want to run it. However, as far as telling if you are too rich or lean is just about as much art form as it is science. You can go by sparkplug readings, smell, sight, sound and even feel. That is why so many people rely On an AF or wideband meter for jetting. Your best bet would be to get the carb kits from a reputable retailer, that will do the baseline jetting for your location. Don't buy used, generally there is a reason why someone is selling their carb sets (bad carb) _________________ 69 road Bug 2110
73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
My builds
T4 into Squareback http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458944&highlight=
Auto Trans Rebuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516066&highlight=
AC in Squareback https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight= |
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moosemeat Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2009 Posts: 32 Location: MASSACHUSETTS
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Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:08 am Post subject: |
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Multi69s wrote: |
moosemeat wrote: |
Two more questions
Should I need to run a tube or rubber hose to combine both intake manifolds to equalize vacuum?
And how does one know if your carbs need to be re-jetted, I would think by either exhaust smoke color or spark plug color black= running too rich or white= running too lean? |
As far as the equalization tube, yes you definitely want to run it. However, as far as telling if you are too rich or lean is just about as much art form as it is science. You can go by sparkplug readings, smell, sight, sound and even feel. That is why so many people rely On an AF or wideband meter for jetting. Your best bet would be to get the carb kits from a reputable retailer, that will do the baseline jetting for your location. Don't buy used, generally there is a reason why someone is selling their carb sets (bad carb) |
I'm planning on purchasing these from CB performance. _________________ Keep on buggin' |
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