I need to move my transaxle reward a few inches

StevieC

I'm getting an ecotec motor and it's going to hit the back wall of the fiberglass body
How can I move the trans/motor back a few inches?
It's a, 002 trans, the axles already angle back with 3x3 arms, 930 CV's
Is there an easy way to do it so I don't have the motor sitting inside the car?
thanks!

Dr OnHolliday · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 1:54 pm Post subject:

How about a pan that's, oh...14" longer than the one you have?
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StevieC · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 1:57 pm Post subject:

wythac · Samba Member Joined: August 02, 2004 Posts: 2791

What is "easy" is relative.

I've done a fair amount of body and frame fab, but nothing as you describe, so put anything I say through that filter;

If you havent done so already, take a look at how much space you will need. I would guess that unless you were planning to remove the body to do this motor swap, the "easiest" thing to do would be to remove the rear bulkhead of your package tray to do the install, and when you are done and no longer need that access, glass it back into place a few inches farther forward. As much work as that sounds, it is much less work than any scenario I can think of anyway.

MacLeod Willy · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:09 pm Post subject:

4x4 3/8 thick aluminum angle and make up a set of rear solid mounts then you will know the thickness you need to add to the front mount.
Extend your clutch cable and shifter, your good to go.

or let the rear passengers straddle the air cleaner

MacLeod Willy · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:36 pm Post subject:

A picture is worth a thousand replies.
It may not be to scale, did it up fast in CDRAW

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

StevieC · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 4:59 pm Post subject:

Dr OnHolliday · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 5:52 pm Post subject:

14"?? I merely guessed that a stock pan had been shortened to install the body, and now you are essentially looking to lengthen a shortened pan. In the back of my mind 14" (or 14.5") was floating around. If so, a stock pan might solve your problem. If I'm all #/^&ed up just ignore me.
_________________
1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust

BL3Manx · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 5:57 pm Post subject:

You'd also have to fabricate longer trailing arms as well as the odd transmission mounts, lines and linkages.

Your back seats are already mounted well forward of the rear wall of the fiberglass body. It would be a lot easier to make the clearance you need in the fiberglass. Cut out the back wall, move it as far forward as you need to, glass it back in and respray the back seat.

weasel_ugs · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 6:14 pm Post subject:

Have you taken the adapter plate into consideration? it will move the eng back a little.

MacLeod Willy · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:11 pm Post subject:

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:19 pm Post subject:

I have seen them done with the chassis extended right behind the rear mounting flange. Basically making the wheel base about 3 inches longer by pulling the torsion housing rearward about 3 inches. This keeps all of your geometry of the suspension in place AND keeps the centerline of the rear weight overhang to a minimum. If you just move transaxle rearward, the weight also moves to the rear further out the back past the wheel centerline which changes the handling of the buggy making it more rear bias.
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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

Roys_Big_Toys · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:24 pm Post subject:

I have one that Turn Key Manx did for me. I am running an 091, 6rib trans with a 2.2L Ecotec. They cut 14.5 inches out of the pan area to put a "Classic" Manx body on it. You need about 3" added behind the pan to clear the rear package area. They also put a 3" lift on the body to clear the rear of the body, where the top of the motor is. If you don't mind cutting the body and having it right down on the trans, you could reduce that amount. I have a bunch of pictures that I can email you. PM me your email address or your phone number and I can text them to you. If you are on the east coast, you are welcome to come by and check it out. I am still in the building process.
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Original Meyers Manx
Berrien LKD Warrior Ecotec 2.2 w/ Bus 091 Trans
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joescoolcustoms · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:24 pm Post subject:

This might help explain my comment a little better from above. Notice the additional distance between the torsion and body mount flange.

_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

MacLeod Willy · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:34 pm Post subject:

Its going to be light on the front with moving the engine and transaxle back, but dam is it going to get impressive wheelstands

StevieC · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:45 pm Post subject:

StevieC · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:49 pm Post subject:

StevieC · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:54 pm Post subject:

StevieC · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 9:03 pm Post subject:

Here's a pic, it's dirty, I just had it out in the mud over the weekend
It looks with the adapter plate, the motor should just clear that cross bar
I'm not sure if the head will hit at top of the back wall

joescoolcustoms · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 9:25 pm Post subject:


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