Brake Fluid Leak

bbbtate · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:17 pm Post subject: Brake Fluid Leak

I'm having a pretty bad brake fluid leak in my '74 Super. It's had a small leak since I got it two years ago, but it's recently got very bad. I filled it up one night, next morning it was all puddled on the concrete. I don't know much about the brake system in general, but I've been told it might be leaking from the master cylinder. Could I get some advice on fixing this? Thanks

volkswagen_bug · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:27 pm Post subject:

Look for visible leaking around the reservoir and the lines leading to the master cylinder.
_________________
1968 Volkswagen Bug w/ 1600 Dual Port

"It’s better to give than to receive. Especially advice." -Mark Twain

bbbtate · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:27 pm Post subject:

Ok, will do.

bbbtate · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:31 pm Post subject:

Ok, so the master cylinder itself has brake fluid all over it. The lines leading from the reservoir all seem to be dry though.

volkswagen_bug · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:37 pm Post subject:

If the lines are dry and have no holes, check the seals on top of the master cylinder where the reservoir lines attach.
_________________
1968 Volkswagen Bug w/ 1600 Dual Port

"It’s better to give than to receive. Especially advice." -Mark Twain

bbbtate · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 3:39 pm Post subject:

Alright, I'm away from the car right now, but I'll check that later this evening.

tcochr · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:06 pm Post subject:

I had the same problem a few months ago. Fill up the reservoir and by morning it was all on the concrete. It was my master Cylinder leaking at the attachment point to the body (behind the accelerator pedal).

The problem is, it aint super-easy to replace due to the 2 spacers that must be threaded onto the bolts when you put on the new one. Theres a few good hints on how to do that here in other threads, Like using thin string/ wire to keep the spacers in place. The rest of the replacement is pretty straightforward:

1. Remove connections from Master Cyl.
2. Prime New Master with fluid (get all the bubbles out)
3. Bolt on New master Cyl ( dont forget those troublesome spacers)
4. Reconnect all the lines and the switch from step #1
5. Bleed the brakes.
6. Miller time.

My problem was further exacerbated by the path the fluid took to drain...right down the main center tunnel (the one with the Heater control cables, the shift rod etc) and leaked out a drain hole in the center.

The brake fluid should be cleaned up, but exactly how to do that is difficult to say due to so much mythology around hygroscopic brake fluid (the fluid is water absorbing). I did not want my car to rust from the tunnel out. In the end I opted to use some dawn dishwashing liquid and some warm water mix to clean it all out. I think it worked, because when I inspect the tunnel through the access port in the rear, and by the E-brake it looks much cleaner and very little residue (cant tell what is is in there). I did find some old army men and a @ .38 cents in change though). Only a few years will tell for sure if it worked. I just know that doing nothing will eat the tunnel away in very short time.

If you do lose a spacer...It is gone forever in the black hole of the bug firewall. I found some generic spacers at Ace and just had to shorten them to fit nicely. Yes, I lost one of my spacers in the black hole.

There is alot of mythology around cars in general, and bugs have no shortage.

Tim
_________________
1973 stock super. 2nd owner. Hawaii garage kept. NO RUST ANYWHERE. Now in Georgia.

TheAmazingDave · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:20 pm Post subject:

tcochr · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:33 pm Post subject:

The Army moves me so much I cant keep excess parts like tubing around.

I need to retire so I can have a proper shop with some real odds and ends around.
_________________
1973 stock super. 2nd owner. Hawaii garage kept. NO RUST ANYWHERE. Now in Georgia.

volkswagen_bug · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:36 pm Post subject:

[email protected] · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:36 pm Post subject:

Yikes, how is that car safe to drive. You probably only have half the brakes.

The spacer is easy to deal with, just don't take the bolts out.

tcochr · Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:40 pm Post subject:

Yep. Dont remove the bolts FULLY from the hole...That way the spacers stay in and on the bolt.

Excellent advice for bbb...too late for me.

Tim
_________________
1973 stock super. 2nd owner. Hawaii garage kept. NO RUST ANYWHERE. Now in Georgia.

bbbtate · Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 9:36 pm Post subject:

Alright, well the leak is on top of the master cylinder right around the seal with the white plastic tube coming out. I tried for about 15 minutes trying to get that out, nothing..

sb001 · Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 10:17 pm Post subject:

It should just pull out although it might be quite tight..

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_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.

1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor

Geirskogul · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 1:09 am Post subject:

Semi-hijack, but I'm doing the master cylinder on my bug, but the new switches I bought to go along with it (the old ones don't activate unless I push down on the pedal hard) only thread in one or two turns before getting very tight in the master cylinder body. Is this normal?

green1303 · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 2:12 am Post subject:

Here are the OEM parts for the OP.

http://www.bughaus.com/brake20.htm

http://www.bughaus.com/master_cylinder_connecting_pipe_-_113611153.htm

http://www.bughaus.com/brake_fluid_hose_-_n203501.htm
_________________
1973 green Super Beetle

volkswagen_bug · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 4:14 am Post subject:

Cusser · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 6:18 am Post subject:

bbbtate · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:34 am Post subject:

Ok, I'll keep trying. I'd like to avoid replacing it if possible. Hopefully the only problem is that seal.

bbbtate · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 7:36 am Post subject:

But then again, it might be good to replace the whole cylinder.


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