Author |
Message |
bbbtate Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2014 Posts: 16 Location: Iowa Park, TX
|
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 8:08 am Post subject: |
|
|
Went ahead and replaced the cylinder, but there were no spacers there like I expected..are they necessary? I also need help on bleeding the brakes. Never done it, no clue where to start. Thanks |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31360 Location: Hot Arizona
|
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 12:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
bbbtate wrote: |
Went ahead and replaced the cylinder, but there were no spacers there like I expected..are they necessary? I also need help on bleeding the brakes. Never done it, no clue where to start. Thanks |
If you leave the two mounting bolts in place - like you're supposed to - then you won't see the spacers or know they are there.
Without spacers at all, when one tightens the mounting bolts the two upright sections of the pan will bend towards each other, then the MC won't be as tight as it should be. And likely will get worse. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bbbtate Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2014 Posts: 16 Location: Iowa Park, TX
|
Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 8:03 am Post subject: |
|
|
Ok, well, Everything is installed with the master cylinder, and its full of fluid, but when I press the brake, there is no pressure or anything. Do I need to adjust the push rod length or something? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vernonc Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2012 Posts: 681 Location: Parkersburg, WV..yes, I sold the boat
|
Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 10:04 am Post subject: |
|
|
Your push rod is, probably, alright however it wouldn't hurt to check it. You should have 1/4 to 1/2 inch of movement at the top of the peddle before the rod starts moving the piston in the master cylinder. If not, adjust it.
Next, you'll need to bleed the system.
There are only two ways and I mean only two ways to bleed the brakes on your car properly!
One is with a 'power bleeder' which you can make yourself or buy from aircooled.net. They're about $ 80.00.
Second is the 'two man' method.
With the two man method, first, adjust the brake shoes until they are 'rather tight' against the drums; you should be able to turn the drums but that's about all.
Second, since yours is a 'dual circuit' system, your fluid reservoir has two compartments; one for the front brakes and one for the rear. You must frequently check the fluid reservoir and keep both compartments full.
Third, take off any tape or grease that may be on the bleeder screws and be sure they are closed and have someone pump the pedal several times, rather slowly, then 'hold it down'!
Next, open the bleed screw on the 'right front' for a few seconds and then close it.
Repeat this until you get good, clean fluid flow; this may take several tries and the person doing the pumping should hold the pedal down until the bleeder screw is closed.
Proceed to the left front then the right rear then the left rear.
There could be a lot of air in the system and could take several tries. However, if you keep the reservoir full and close the bleed screws before the pedal is released, you'll eventually get all the air out.
Note: It's okay to put a short piece of tubing on the bleeder screw and catch the 'spent fluid' in a jar but that's just for 'house keeping' and to keep fluid from dribbling down the backing plate.
Hope this helps and good luck.
mort _________________ "Those who don't read newspapers are un-informed. Those who do read newspapers are mis-informed." Will Rogers
'69 sedan, low mileage, all original.....currently being 'freshened-up' for road trips and daily driving...just not every day
Freshening-up link http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=617386 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bbbtate Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2014 Posts: 16 Location: Iowa Park, TX
|
Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 11:44 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks vernonc! I now have brakes! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
houseofboyd Samba Member
Joined: September 28, 2014 Posts: 613 Location: Flatwoods, Ky
|
Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 1:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
vernonc wrote: |
Your push rod is, probably, alright however it wouldn't hurt to check it. You should have 1/4 to 1/2 inch of movement at the top of the peddle before the rod starts moving the piston in the master cylinder. If not, adjust it.
Next, you'll need to bleed the system.
There are only two ways and I mean only two ways to bleed the brakes on your car properly!
One is with a 'power bleeder' which you can make yourself or buy from aircooled.net. They're about $ 80.00.
Second is the 'two man' method.
With the two man method, first, adjust the brake shoes until they are 'rather tight' against the drums; you should be able to turn the drums but that's about all.
Second, since yours is a 'dual circuit' system, your fluid reservoir has two compartments; one for the front brakes and one for the rear. You must frequently check the fluid reservoir and keep both compartments full.
Third, take off any tape or grease that may be on the bleeder screws and be sure they are closed and have someone pump the pedal several times, rather slowly, then 'hold it down'!
Next, open the bleed screw on the 'right front' for a few seconds and then close it.
Repeat this until you get good, clean fluid flow; this may take several tries and the person doing the pumping should hold the pedal down until the bleeder screw is closed.
Proceed to the left front then the right rear then the left rear.
There could be a lot of air in the system and could take several tries. However, if you keep the reservoir full and close the bleed screws before the pedal is released, you'll eventually get all the air out.
Note: It's okay to put a short piece of tubing on the bleeder screw and catch the 'spent fluid' in a jar but that's just for 'house keeping' and to keep fluid from dribbling down the backing plate.
Hope this helps and good luck.
mort |
Great explanation Mort... ! _________________ Our 1968 Zenith Blue Beetle: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619501
My '74 SB Build On The Samba: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=609943
Our Web Site: http://www.kentuckyhotwheels.com
1968 VW Beetle
2012 Turbo VW Beetle |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|