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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The main fuel hose exiting the 1/2 injectors goes to your adjustable fuel pressure regulator in your return line. You have the extra outlet on both sides?
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nogoodwithusernames
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike, I think this is something else. Both sides have the 5 point connection (2 on the bottom for injectors, 2 sides for 1 outlet and 1 inlet, and the one on top.)

The 3/4 side has a screw in it like mentioned, the 1/2 side has a fuel line going up to something that is on the throttle/air distributor body (there is also a wire running to this same piece). Side 1/2 also has the return line going through what I believe is the pressure regulator connected to the front tin before going to the hardline back to the tank.

I didn't see this mystery piece when I was looking at the fuel system in the Bentley but I may have missed something.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nogoodwithusernames wrote:
the 1/2 side has a fuel line going up to something that is on the throttle/air distributor body (there is also a wire running to this same piece).


That is your cold start jet.
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KTPhil wrote:
nogoodwithusernames wrote:
the 1/2 side has a fuel line going up to something that is on the throttle/air distributor body (there is also a wire running to this same piece).


That is your cold start jet.


Correct. Maybe Mike's 69 doesn't have a cold start valve?
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nogoodwithusernames
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright everyone, good news! As you all guessed it was a vacuum leak and no fault of the old lines... Embarassed
I had accidentally disconnected the line from the AAR into the throttle body when running new fuel line across there. I did replace all the old lines still and she's running good again! I haven't driven her yet but hopefully that part will be better too. 'edit' she drives great again too, no one from the Addams Family hitching a ride.

No luck with fuel pressure yet. My FLAPS didn't have the gauge in stock today.

And yes the cold start jet was 70+ so Mike doesn't have one. (As per the Bentley)

Thanks again everyone! Very Happy
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nogoodwithusernames
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Todays update after the drive to work. I think I will need to pull the tank and give it a rinse to get some of the crud out. It started acting up again about midway through my drive.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 19, 2015 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check your filler neck sealing; typically old ones are cracked and let water and dirt into your tank.

When you remove and install the tank, be careful of the thin rubber sock used under the large thick filler tank pipe. It is easy to tear, but it must be perfect to seal while submerged, as it will be after a fillup.
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nogoodwithusernames
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been a while since an update. I've been going through stuff still. Got the the overflow hose replaced (the molded rubber elbow bit going under the fender to the filler neck) it was badly cracked and could be letting in dirt. Got the tank outlet and screen replaced, mine was bent and rusty and cruddy. I replaced the fuel filter a few times to make sure everything was out of the tank.

Today I...
-Rented a fuel pressure kit from a place down the street cause the auto parts store didn't have one the last few times I was there. It was a little high at first (35psi) set it to 30 so that should be good.
-Checked all spark plugs. They were all gapped a bit wide so I corrected them and cleaned them up.
-Put in new spark plug wires, the old ones were quite stiff.
-Finished replacing injector seals. My order came in this week so I was finally able to get that done.

It is still running poorly and I have determined it to be a vacuum leak. I took the elbow from the air cleaner to the throttle body off and blocked the inlet with my hand and the idle smoothed out. I think it is one of the hose connections between the manifold and throttle body but I couldn't hear any differences when doing the "carb cleaner test". Does anyone sell those and how hard are they to replace?
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(Conversion thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=732508&highlight= or https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=151375&sid=f0542d44a322d290c29d6609fac7f215 )
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nogoodwithusernames
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well this afternoon I got some stuff done, but still no luck with running any better.

I was able to get the 1/2 side all re-sealed, there is a hose shop near me that had some silicone hose the same size as the stuff from the air box to intake manifold so I replaced two of those today, I got some paper gasket material and re-did the manifold to head seal (new paper on either side of the spacer. I stuck it to the spacer with some non hardening gasket sealer.) and re-seated the injectors to make sure there is a good seal.

I guess my vacuum leak is on 3/4 side so I will let you know when that is done. Maybe tomorrow night after work. I was hoping to be able to take her to work tomorrow but oh well huh?
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74 914, 2.0L w/ D-Jet

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Intrinsic
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can always try to find a garage with a smoke tester. This will help you to find vacuum leaks quite quickly. Here is a link to such testers

http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-to...50694_0_0/
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OGSquare
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you replaced the spark plug wires? They go bad and are frequently overlooked when diagnosing driveability problems.
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nogoodwithusernames
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I replaced those the other day. Got one of the 90 degree kits from AC.net.

I am also going to check my voltage at the generator to make sure it's not going bad and playing tricks on me.
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OGSquare
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another idea. Remove the rockers and check the torque on the head studs. You can only check the bottom 4 studs but, they are the ones that usually come loose. Also, pull your plugs and see what their condition is. After you replace them, check the compression on all cylinders. Another thing to do is pull the throttle body off to see if it's crudded-up inside. When you do this, check the 4 external rubber seals that connect the throttle body to the fuel runners. These seals dry out and leak over time. All these things were problems on my '71. Even after I fixed all this, I still had problems. I ended up rebuilding the engine and found all my compression rings were totally worn out.
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nogoodwithusernames
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright another update. Finished the 3/4 side intake seals and manifold hoses so those are all new. Took it down to the local VW mechanic on the way to pick up my stock wheels from the blaster, and he listened to it and made some adjustments. Those being adjusting the timing a little and moved the little black box on the side of the throttle a bit.
It helped smooth out the idle and it is running much better in general but still a but "surgy" during cruising.
Any ideas?

I am getting ≈13.5v and 25amps from the generator.
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OGSquare
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's surging, it could be one of more cylinders intermittently cutting out rather than all the cylinders surging at the same time. There is a connector on the front top of the engine with 4 wires connected to it. There are the grounds for the fuel injectors. Over time the slide-on spade lugs loosen up and the insulation cracks on the wiring. You can check to make sure they're all tight. I've also had the wires going to the fuel injectors fray and make intermittent connections. Mine is the same year as yours and I've already had to replace both wires going to 1-2 side. Also, the trigger points in the distributor could be worn. I've had to replace them on my car as well.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nogoodwithusernames wrote:

I am getting ≈13.5v and 25amps from the generator.


Isn't 13.5v a bit on the low side? I recall reading in other threads that the FI system likes to see over 14v or it can start acting wonky.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
nogoodwithusernames wrote:

I am getting ≈13.5v and 25amps from the generator.


Isn't 13.5v a bit on the low side? I recall reading in other threads that the FI system likes to see over 14v or it can start acting wonky.


It would be pretty strange to design a PCB that required 14v in a 12v car, even for Germans.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well after I got home from work today I was playing around a little trying to see what what going on. I picked up a remanned beetle generator (bosch even!) and put it in. It ran well but the generator light was on. Turns out since it's a beetle gen that it was backwards so I flipped it around and it started running poorly again but the generator light was off.

Any ideas from this info?

I'm hoping and thinking it's not the injector wiring but that may just be me not wanting to check all the wiring... Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 8:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OGSquare wrote:
sjbartnik wrote:
nogoodwithusernames wrote:

I am getting ≈13.5v and 25amps from the generator.


Isn't 13.5v a bit on the low side? I recall reading in other threads that the FI system likes to see over 14v or it can start acting wonky.


It would be pretty strange to design a PCB that required 14v in a 12v car, even for Germans.


Yet, that's what they did.
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OGSquare
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 5:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
nogoodwithusernames wrote:

I am getting ≈13.5v and 25amps from the generator.


Isn't 13.5v a bit on the low side? I recall reading in other threads that the FI system likes to see over 14v or it can start acting wonky.


If you're worried about the voltage going to the ECU, you have to check the output coming from the voltage regulator, not the generator. The voltage regulator could be bad but I don't think that is your problem. I'm not even getting 13.5v out of my generator/regulator and, my car runs like a scalded dog.
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